Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdy folks. I have this here 99 Taurus SE Wagon. I think there are more details under my username. Anyhow it's mighty cold here in New England. I did a trip to and from Montreal over the past 4 days. The air coming out of the vents while on max heat is, at best, only mildly warm. It might even be luke warm. I want it hot! Any ideas what might be the issue? The guy at AutoZone told me he thinks it's the core. If it is the core can you all suggest one which will be very superior to what I have now? Something which will heat the air very quickly and to a high degree?

Thanks!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Roffle! Welcome to my world. See my post "Baby It's.... blah blah"

Sounds like the identical problem.

I drove for 7 hours yesterday with the gauge reading almost halfway but little or no heat output.

I have back flushed the heater core, changed the thermostat. Got more heat for about an hour and a half. Now it's as cold as when I started. Only difference is that the heater output hose has warmed up from cool to warm. Also the gauge has gone from 1/4 to half of the normal zone.

Most seem to point to poor flow from a failing water pump. This is my project tomorrow, unless tinkering today has some results.

Gary


ps I just got back from driving the wife to work and saw your username.... 1st thing that hit was 'stone cold' :mj_banana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Howdy folks. I have this here 99 Taurus SE Wagon. I think there are more details under my username. Anyhow it's mighty cold here in New England. I did a trip to and from Montreal over the past 4 days. The air coming out of the vents while on max heat is, at best, only mildly warm. It might even be luke warm. I want it hot! Any ideas what might be the issue? The guy at AutoZone told me he thinks it's the core. If it is the core can you all suggest one which will be very superior to what I have now? Something which will heat the air very quickly and to a high degree?

Thanks!!!!
[/b]
Just like GaryD says...your water pump is probably pretty close to shot. For some reason '96-'99 Vulcan water pump impellers seem to rot away which doesn't allow for proper flow of the coolant thru cooling system/heater core. If you haven't flushed the coolant in a while that should be on the list of things to do as well. The rotting impellers usually "gunk" up the coolant (which is another calling card of 'crappy' water pump) and requires flushing out the old nasty coolant and back flushing the heater core to get anything 'trapped' in it out like GaryD has done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
<div class='quotemain'>
Howdy folks. I have this here 99 Taurus SE Wagon. I think there are more details under my username. Anyhow it's mighty cold here in New England. I did a trip to and from Montreal over the past 4 days. The air coming out of the vents while on max heat is, at best, only mildly warm. It might even be luke warm. I want it hot! Any ideas what might be the issue? The guy at AutoZone told me he thinks it's the core. If it is the core can you all suggest one which will be very superior to what I have now? Something which will heat the air very quickly and to a high degree?

Thanks!!!!
[/b]
Just like GaryD says...your water pump is probably pretty close to shot. For some reason Vulcan water pump impellers seem to rot away which doesn't allow for proper flow of the coolant thru cooling system/heater core. If you haven't flushed the coolant in a while that should be on the list of things to do as well. The rotting impellers usually "gunk" up the coolant (which is another calling card of 'crappy' water pump) and requires flushing out the old nasty coolant and back flushing the heater core to get anything 'trapped' in it out like GaryD has done.
[/b][/quote]


Ok, so I guess the water pump needs replacing. It's way too cold outside for me to do it myself so I guess I'll drop it off at the mom-and-pop. Before I let them put any water pump in can you suggest one which might be worth investing in?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
First off, check your coolant level. The first sign of low coolant is no heat, as it's one of the highest points on the system. Ignore the markings on the coolant tank - fill the tank to the brim. There is a TSB saying the same thing, but I don't feel like searching for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
First off, check your coolant level. The first sign of low coolant is no heat, as it's one of the highest points on the system. Ignore the markings on the coolant tank - fill the tank to the brim. There is a TSB saying the same thing, but I don't feel like searching for it.
[/b]
I'll check it out when I get home. The car is stuck in snow right now and I'm waiting until it melts a bit until I try to dig it out again.

In the meantime, any suggestions on a water pump?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
If the water pump was bad, you'd have serious overheating issues. For a quick way to see if the pump is at least somewhat looking is to start the car with the coolant reservoir cap off. You should see coolant flowing in the reservoir if the pump is working. Also, the radiator hose lines should be hot if the pump is working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If the water pump was bad, you'd have serious overheating issues. For a quick way to see if the pump is at least somewhat looking is to start the car with the coolant reservoir cap off. You should see coolant flowing in the reservoir if the pump is working. Also, the radiator hose lines should be hot if the pump is working.
[/b]
I did look at the heat temp yesterday while driving 6 hours and it was also on the low side. I don't think I am overheating. I will do as you suggest, however, when I get home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
Mine was filled to the brim last summer when I bought it... After maybe a day of driving around I noticed a huge pool of coolant on the driveway... I have no idea where it came from but I haven't had a coolant leak since it's been at the line on the tank...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Mine was filled to the brim last summer when I bought it... After maybe a day of driving around I noticed a huge pool of coolant on the driveway... I have no idea where it came from but I haven't had a coolant leak since it's been at the line on the tank...
[/b]
Assume for a moment that everything is flowing as it should and the radiator fluid is as the appropriate height. Why else would I be lacking hot air?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
Blocked heater core. Actually quite common with the Vulcan engine - there is a TSB to run a bypass line between the two heater core lines to prevent the core from sludging up. If your coolant is brown, it's time to do the flush procedure outlined in the wiki.

Mine was filled to the brim last summer when I bought it... After maybe a day of driving around I noticed a huge pool of coolant on the driveway... I have no idea where it came from but I haven't had a coolant leak since it's been at the line on the tank... [/b]
That's because the coolant expanded as it heated up and the excess coolant came out the relief vent in the reservoir cap. It's supposed to do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Blocked heater core. Actually quite common with the Vulcan engine - there is a TSB to run a bypass line between the two heater core lines to prevent the core from sludging up. If your coolant is brown, it's time to do the flush procedure outlined in the wiki.
[/b]
Being it's below zero, if I go to the mom-and-pop shop around the corner and tell them to flush the heater core do you think they'll understand it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
Yes, they'll know what a heater core flush is and how to do it. Have them check to make sure the heater core bypass kit has been installed - it's just a couple of "T"s spliced in the supply and return hoses to the heater core, and a piece of hose running between them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes, they'll know what a heater core flush is and how to do it. Have them check to make sure the heater core bypass kit has been installed - it's just a couple of "T"s spliced in the supply and return hoses to the heater core, and a piece of hose running between them.
[/b]
Excellent. I'll bring it over in a day or two when the snow melts a bit.

I looked in the wiki and found this http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php/M...ing_and_Cooling

but I didn't see instructions for the heater core flush. Am I in the wrong place?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I did my flush in the garage. As it is really cold, and I have no tap working, I did this.

Flushed it the day before yesterday. As I mentioned, I got warmth and then lost it again. Although it was running clear the first time, I repeated today and got as much gunk as the first time. I assume it was loosened and then plugged it up again. If I lose the warmth I have again now, I will repeat again. :ford:

I cut the passenger side hose and put a splice in there, just before the bypass hose. I removed the other (driver's) side heater hose at the T where the bypass rejoins. I then clamped the bypass, the hose from the water pump near my new splice and the hose at the other side after the T I disconnected. This pretty much left me with the hose flowing thru the heater core.

I used a short section of garden hose at the outlet side (pass) and a longer piece into a pail at the driver's end. I blew through the short section with my compressor in short bursts. Lots more crap came out. Then clear fluid and air finally. I filled the short end via a pop bottle and repeated 8 or 9 times. At the end no more gunk, just clear water blasted out. Reconnected the driver's side hose. I refilled using coolant mix and reconnected the hose and topped up as usual.

Actually was pretty easy once the splices are in place and you have the garden hose prepped.

Let's see what happens this time. :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Let's assume for a moment that the water pump is bad. There are many pumps out there. Which is the best to use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I bought a new one at NAPA ($50 CDN) I don't expect that the car will last long enough to require another. Long commute and country roads take their toll.

Judging by other parts, you can't always tell where it came from by the box. They're all probably made in 2 or 3 factories and boxed and label led as needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Let's assume for a moment that the water pump is bad. There are many pumps out there. Which is the best to use?
[/b]
I'm not sure which is the "best". I usually use OEM parts...but I never had a car without a warranty. Just keep in mind to replace the coolant and flush out the system every couple yrs or whatever the maintenance schedule says...that'll help prevent this type of thing from happening again. I've been told the 'old' coolant is what rots the impellers away.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top