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Here is a simple test. Install the battery in the vehicle, have someone in the seat ready to crank the motor. Watch the voltage drop on the battery. If it is a fully charged good battery at 12.6 volts it should drop no lower than 9.6 volts while cranking. If the battery completely drops dead to the 1 volt you were saying the battery is bad and a new battery is needed.
 

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When your battery is bulging or looks like this:



it's time to replace.
 

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There's nothing better than JB weld, duck tape, zip ties, bailing wire and my favorite epoxy, superglue and baking soda.
 

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There's nothing better than JB weld, duck tape, zip ties, bailing wire and my favorite epoxy, superglue and baking soda.
Hey, sometimes bailing wire works. I had to use it on the coolant/washer fluid tank on the F-250. Hadn't gotten around to replacing it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Had a 1993 Subaru Justy with the 3 banger. I both rear windows held closed with bailing wire. My 1993 Cougar had it's bumper cover held on with zip ties due to a "friend" borrowing it and driving it through a chain link fence.
 

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Whats no charge test? It does charge because it charged from 7v to 12.5v few days ago.

In AutoZones here in LA are bunch of Interns good if they know how to charge the battery..., anyway i cannot drive carry it there its bit too heavy, i try some tests at home for now.
They do the test gratís. Get a friend to take you and the battery to a shop and get it tested. I assume you have friends, unless you have done car work for them all...:)
 

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Doing my recommended test would pretty much simulate the typical load test done at parts stores, unless they do some other steps. This test simulates the VAT40/45 battery load tester.
 

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And beer. Every 'repair' of that type just seems to go better (and more creatively) when beer is involved.


Beer is an occasional thing for me. I am more of a Gin and Scotch man myself. I'll slam some Jim Beam before doing anything that pisses me off vehicular wise lol
 

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Beer is an occasional thing for me. I am more of a Gin and Scotch man myself. I'll slam some Jim Beam before doing anything that pisses me off vehicular wise lol
Beer seemed more in keeping with redneck repair 101. :lol2:
Don't actually drink and wrench myself, I might spill my drink. ;)
Afterwards however...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If your battery hits one volt, it's toast.
I think that depends on how long it was left for 1 volt, and its a AGM (gas) battery. I did charge it yesterday and after about 8 hours it was back to 12.5volts i tried to start car it started without problem 1 time. I put it back charging and will float for couple days.

I can't see the value of a resistance test but would surely recommend current draw test from ground lead to neg post as a valid.
I put it back in the car i connected positive and put multimeter between neg lead and neg wire and it showed no amp being pulled in 10a mode and 200ma mode either.

I connected battery and used non contact amp meter (it was not for DC current) and it measured nothing on any wires in both 2amp and 200 amp mode.

So i am not sure how to test for short anymore, i guess i need better in line amp meter?
 

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If the battery is giving you this much hassle, why don't you just replace it? Then when you have a good battery you can properly perform the parasitic draw test and narrow your "drain." If your meter won't pick up any current draw it is one of two things, either the leads are not properly connected in the right sockets or the fuse in the meter is blown. The draw test should show some draw no matter what. Usually around 50 milliamps. An inductive pickup ammeter will probably be better in this situation IF you do havea high amp drain. Just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If the battery is giving you this much hassle, why don't you just replace it?
Man did you read the thread if my alternator broken and battery not charging i think its stupid to blame battery for that, also if i have short and battery discharging when installed its own its stupid to blame battery for that either.

I first need to determine if there's short or not then fix alternator and then i will think about battery.

Also it was expensive battery and i so far not ready to trash it.
 

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Not sure what you are trying to test for. Under normal circumstances you could expect a miniscule (DC) draw with meter between neg post and neg terminal connector. Battery needs to be fully charged for test to have any value, if there are no amps to move then... Did you repair alternator? What happened with battery test?
 

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I've been posting on this thread from the start, so yes I have been reading it. Just giving advice from personal and professional experiences, but if you don't want to take it that's alright. Good luck with your repair and I hope you figure it out.
 

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Clark keep in mind that most electronics will stop functioning below an 8-10 volt supply range so if battery is not fully charged (or fully functional) you may not even see the normal .01-.05 draw. It is possible for a bad diode in the alternator to be the cause of a draw when the car is not running.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Not sure what you are trying to test for. Under normal circumstances you could expect a miniscule (DC) draw with meter between neg post and neg terminal connector. Battery needs to be fully charged for test to have any value, if there are no amps to move then... Did you repair alternator? What happened with battery test?
I getting Cen-Tech 500 this evening.

Ok for the amp test, battery was charged fully 12.5v and it started car just fine, however i did not see any amp draw at all when used multimeter between between disconnected bat neg terminal and neg wire.

I have not got to alternator yet, you told me in other thread that regulator looks like this, however cannot find it at RockAuto do you have link?
 
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