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Discussion Starter #1
:huh: I'm having a BIG problem with my Taurus. The fuel pump is not getting any electric to it. I've traced the wire from the fuel pump to under the floor boards but can't figure out where it goes under the hood! Any suggestions? I've had to have it towed home from college TWICE now. PLEASE.... Give me some suggestions!
 

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I beliee that all Tauri are the same in this regard.....

It gets juice from the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) under the plastic protector up by the radiator. Under it, you should see 3-4 connectors. Try unplugging/reconnecting those connectors just to make sure that it isn't a bad connector.

Can't tell you exactly which relay it is under there on your car, but the CCRM is the source of power for the fuel pump.

FWIW, here's a cut-n-paste of a current SHOtimes thread on the same topic, from George Fourchy:

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

The CCRM is the "Constant Control Relay Module", also known as the
"Integrated Relay
Control Module", and is apparently a common fixture of EFI Ford cars. All
Tauri
have them, but different engines have different versions, and they are not
interchangeable. It runs the cooling fan, a/c compressor, and various other
things
that we all need to either run or be comfortable, and most importantly, it
supplies
the basic power to run the fuel pump. It is located underneath the plastic
panel
you see first thing after you open the hood, which is bolted to the radiator
support. If the CE light is dimmer than the others, that means the power
source to
the CCRM and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, or engine computer),
located in the
far back of the glove compartment, is also not powered. Hopefully, here
you do not
need to access the CCRM directily...you just need to get power to it.

There is a small wire that comes off the positive battery terminal that goes
a
different direction than the big cable. It goes down through a connector,
then to
the CCRM and then the PCM, supplying 12 volts. If that wire is not
connected or
broken, the computer only gets 5 volts through the sensor harnesses (I'm
guessing),
and so the CE light is dimmer. So, you have no power getting to these two
components, OR, you have a bad ground coming back from them. The ground is
a
similar sized wire that goes to a clip that screws to the fender behind the
battery
a ways, not too far from the power steering reservoir.

If the car has had its original battery terminals cut off the battery
cables, and
replacement terminals added, make sure that the small black wire coming off
the
positive cable is making good contact to the big cable. Make sure the
connector
down below the battery, or wherever it might be, about 8 inches down that
black
wire, is connected. Make sure the ground wire you find behind the battery
is
fastened securely to the fender. These three things _should_ get you power
to the
CE light and to the two components. If there isn't a problem here, you have
more to
troubleshoot, but the basic thing is there is no power to those two devices,
and you
won't get fuel pressure and a fully functioning engine computer without
them.

You will get spark without power to these things....the computer doesn't
generate
the spark, it just times it properly.

Let us know what you find.

George

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:eek: Thanks! You've given me hope! I just need a little more help. PLEASE?? OK, I found the box you're talking about. I a little confused on the "CE Light". Where do I look for this light? Also, coming off of the postive battery terminal there is a red wire that goes to the starter and a black wire about the same size that goes to a fuse panel up by the driver-side shock tower. They are original battery terminals. Does this sound right???
 
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The battery terminals sound correct.

The CE light is the check engine light, and is located on your dash.

I encountered this same problem on a friend's 93 Taurus wagon, and it turned out that the wiring harness to the CCRM had a couple wires frayed. I spliced in a different complete harness, and it's been fine.

For reference, the fuel pump wire is light blue on the PCM (part going into the firewall with the large harness on it.) It also should be light blue going into the CCRM.

What year and engine are we talking about? If I have it, I can email you a schematic of the CCRM harness, and also what to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Duh! I'm sorry. I guess I justed haven't learned "Auto shorthand" yet. This is a '93 with a 3.0 L engine. I believe a Duratec engine. Email me at [email protected]. I've just about run out of my AAA free tows so you guys are REALLY saving my rear. THANK YOU! The car will run great for a couple weeks and all of a sudden I'm back at it again.
 
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Originally posted by pipercat@Aug 19 2004, 08:21 PM
OK, how many volts should I be getting to the emergency shutoff in the trunk??
It should be 12V, or darn close to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you. I have 11.7 volts at the CCRM and the same voltage at pin #5 (fuel pump pin), but there is no power to the emergency shutoff in the truck. Any suggestions???? Just trace the wire????
 
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Originally posted by pipercat@Aug 19 2004, 09:03 PM
Thank you. I have 11.7 volts at the CCRM and the same voltage at pin #5 (fuel pump pin), but there is no power to the emergency shutoff in the truck. Any suggestions???? Just trace the wire????
Make sure you've checked both terminals on the trunk switch connector. If there's no voltage, check fuses, then the wire. On the 93 I had worked on, the blue wire for the fuel pump coming off the PCM harness had previously been spliced. Make sure that wire is also getting voltage.
 

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Another common problem with these cars is fuel pump failure. Usually happens after driving for a while on a really hot day. Let it cool down and it will be fine again. You might have a bad fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It has a new fuel pump so it wasn't that. BUT! We had gotten the battery checked and everytime it was checked (by Autozone and others) the battery checked out ok. THIS TIME they put a load on the battery and within one minute the battery dropped off to nothing. Dead. So.... it now has a new battery with enough crank and so far so good. We'll see.
Thank you Bob and everyone else for the suggestions and support. I was about to loose my mind (and my free AAA tows). Thanks again! You guys are great! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It was an AutoZone fuel pump. The original was a Ford. The new fuel pump was the first place we started since the battery always registered at full power.
 

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You should find out what brand they sell. If it's a Carter fuel pump then it could still be your problem. If it's 90 degrees where you live thats when they crap out. I've had 3 of them on 2 different cars and it's the same thing on both of them. First they get real noisy and thats your warning sign. If you keep driving it will die then you have to let it cool down. This only happens when it's a good 90 degrees out. I totally recommend a ford fuel pump.
 
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