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98 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan. As of a few days ago the interior windows started fogging up so I figured the heater core might have a slow leak so I added bars-leak to the coolant. Now the car has no heat. What am I looking at? New heater core and thermostat?

Thank you in advance
 
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Sounds like a plugged heater core, with the exception of the windows fogging up. Check this article, and make sure your car has the bypass tube installed. Get the chemical flush, flush it out and see what happens.

Cooling system
 

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Concur with Bob, sounds like a plugged heater core. These years have issues already with sludge, the last thing I would put in one is any of those stop leak products, because I am sure they are going to plug o\up the heater core if the plug up a leak.

Flush, Flush, and then Flush again.

Gerry
 

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Well, last night I pulled the car into the garage and disconnected both the inlet and outlet to the heater core. I then blew out the heater core with compressed air and then both the inlet and out lines. I then reconnected everything and I now have heat. I did get a bunch of sludge out of the system by doing this. I did not do a regular flush yet because the ambient temp here has been averaging 17F.

Thanks all... great help from a great site!
 
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Glad we could help! Just so you know, this is a very common problem with the Vulcan 3.0l cars from 96-99. The article I linked you to is actually part of a now-invalid recall that Ford did on these cars. It's very important that you make sure your car has the bypass hose, updated water pump, and chemical flush/coolant treatment done to it. My 97, which according to Ford did have the recall done, is currently down with a junk motor due to excessive heat in the rear head, and corrosion of the head and block sealing surfaces.

I don't mean to scare you, as your engine is most likely fine, I just want you to know the extent of the damage that can be caused by not doing the necessary upgrades.
 

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Heater blows cold or warm, 97 Taurus, 3.0 ohv, at rpms over 2000 heater blows warm, not hot, at idle blows cool, not enough to defrost windshield. Have recently replaced water pump, thermostat, flushed system (including heater core), filled plastic expansion to top, and even tried restricting the bypass hose to force more water thru heater core. Cannot determine if air blend door is stuck open. Nothing has helped. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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IRAY: Mine was giving some heat after the first flushing, but not hot. Symptoms much like yours. Flushed 2 more times, this last was in accordance (kind of) with the tsb that was posted. By kind of, I hooked up the hose on the return line to the heater core, but I disconnected the supply line near the thermostat instead of flushing the entire block out (this was just done about 3 months ago). I clamped off the heater bypass and let the water roll through the heater core for about half an hour, even after it ran clear for a while, every now and then I would get another "burp" of brown shi# coming out. I know have one heck of a lot of heat, puts my 2001 explorer to shame. Try to flush again, you can do just the heater core by doing as I did, and make sure you flush it from the water pump side to force the water through backwards?? Also, while flushing, clamp off the bypass hose, it will force 100pct of the water through the core.

I think this is where my problems began, when I had a local mechanic flush the radiator originally, I don't think he clamped off the bypass hose, so it forced the crud into the heater core and allowed the water to go around via the bypass hose.
So much for saving time by paying for a 59.00 cooling system flush, I have spent about 4 hours trying to get heat back after they screwed it up.

Hope it helps, keep at it, it will get better.

gerry
 
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Check both lines going to the heater core. Are they both hot? If so, you have a blend door problem.
 

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Hello all, first post here (please be kind
) i have done a search and checked the FAQ's. This thread seems to be closest to my problem, and I will be looking into this issue asap. The only difference I have found is that my Temp gauge is below normal and always on cold. It seems to take forever to blow heat from the vents as well. T-stat replace and heater core flush coming up! <- that should fix it right?
 

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Originally posted by ford_has_better_idea@Jan 14 2004, 05:01 AM
Hello all, first post here (please be kind
) i have done a search and checked the FAQ's. This thread seems to be closest to my problem, and I will be looking into this issue asap. The only difference I have found is that my Temp gauge is below normal and always on cold. It seems to take forever to blow heat from the vents as well. T-stat replace and heater core flush coming up! <- that should fix it right?
The thermostat will be the fix running cold problem. Yours is stuck open.

The flush is an excellent idea in any event.

Steve
 

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Hi everyone,
I am experiencing similar issues to what ppl have posted in this thread with my 98 wagon. I was wondering if anyone might have some photos of their work on the cooling system. I wanted to try directing the flush through the heater core but I'm not sure what's what. My Chilton's is currently unavailable and I only have experience with replacing my rotors, brake pads, and stabilizer bars so far

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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I dont have any photos (car is in FL while I am in AL for a while). The TSB posted by Bob (see the link for "cooling system") hos some in it. If you open the hood, on the passenger side, you will see a hose going from the water pump to the heater core. It may have a "t" right before the heater core for z bypass hose. From the other side of the core, there will be another hose going to the driver side to the thermostat housing. This may have a "t" in it also for the bypass hose.

Remove the hose from by the water pump and cap the fitting on the block. Insert a 5/8" female hose fitting into the heater hose. Remove the hose from the thermostat side and direct it to a catch pan (big). drain what fluid you can, the connect a garden hose to the hose fitting you installed. Turn on the water and flush the core. You will have to clamp off the bypass hose to force water through the core. Let it run for a good while.

When it runs clear, remove the hose fitting, reinstall hoses, unclamp bypass hose, start engine, turn on heat and keep the expansion tank filled with antifreeze mix.

While this is not a substitute for a complete cooling system flush, it will flush the core and help get heat back. The TSB posted above by Bob is very helpful if you read it completely through. I would flush the entire system first, then if that doesn't help the heat, then focus directly on flushing the core. I did my core three times before I got full heat back. I will now flush mine annually to keep the brown coolant issues at bay.
 

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I am not sure what I am experiencing is related to heater core but since the discussion is still going on, you guys can take a guess.
For last 3-4 months (when I started to use heat), every morning, after I start the engine and turn the heat on by turning climate knob to right (panel-leg, leg, windows-leg, windows) I get strong dust smell. The smell goes away after like 2 mles driving. The smell is smilar to going into a very old house -no fresh air inside - which smells old or dust. I have replaced the cabin filter @ the beginning of the winter.
Any idea or guess?
 

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Originally posted by FullDuplex@Jan 21 2004, 09:26 AM
I am not sure what I am experiencing is related to heater core but since the discussion is still going on, you guys can take a guess.
For last 3-4 months (when I started to use heat), every morning, after I start the engine and turn the heat on by turning climate knob to right (panel-leg, leg, windows-leg, windows) I get strong dust smell. The smell goes away after like 2 mles driving. The smell is smilar to going into a very old house -no fresh air inside - which smells old or dust. I have replaced the cabin filter @ the beginning of the winter.
Any idea or guess?
Pull the cabin filter out, turn the defrost on HIGH, and spray Lysol disinfectant (the aerosol stuff... not the bathroom/kitchen cleaner) into the cowl where the cabin filter goes. Spray for about 5 seconds or so, so the Lysol travels through the ducts. Then switch the climate setting to send the air through the dash vents, and repeat the Lysol procedure. Then do it for the floor setting. Finally, remove any crap from the cabin filter, and smell it to make sure there's no funk going on in the filter substrate itself. If it smells nasty, give it a quick blast on each side, trying to get some Lysol between the pleats. After running air through the vents for about 20-30 minutes, the Lysol smell should go away, and you'll have nice clean air!

*Edit* Forgot to mention... the problem itself is that there is mold or mildew growing in the air ducts. Lysol kills it.

Also, if anyone needs instructional diagrams, AutoZone.com has some great tutorials on-line. Go to the "Repairs" link and punch in your car info.
 

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My 98 Taurus SE has the same problem. However, when I try to look for the cabinet filter, it is not there. And I look up the manual. It says optional. So there could be no such thing in my car.

I don't know where I should spray the lysol disinfectant into in order to kill those mold.

thanks for the input
 

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The cabin filter and interior air intake are in the passengers side cowl. You have to remove the upper part of the cowl to get to it. Be careful with the cheap plastic screws. Some are a 1/4 turn and pull out, some are threaded.

Pour some disinfectant down there with the blower on high or Ford has a TSB on this too if you want them to bilk you.

TSB 99-19-5 or 98-2-7

ISSUE:
Musty and mildew type odors may come from the air conditioning/heating system. These odors may be caused by mildew-type fungi growth in the A/C evaporator. It is most noticeable when the A/C is first turned on.

ACTION:
A new Disodorizer® which encapsulates the mildew is now available to help reduce these odors. A new Moisture Purge Module (MPM) which operates the blower motor when the vehicle is parked to dry out the evaporator core is now available for these vehicles. Apply the Air Conditioning System Disodorizer® (F6AZ-19G210-AA or YN-18, or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M99B187-A) product to the A/C system, install the MPM as directed in the following Service Procedure, and review the Odor Service Tips.


WARNING: AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN. CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN WILL CAUSE IRRITATION. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING THE DISODORIZER®.




WARNING: THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED IN WELL VENTILATED AREAS. OPEN ALL WINDOWS AND DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. LEAVE DOORS AND WINDOWS OPEN DURING THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE. AVOID BREATHING VAPORS.




WARNING: AVOID FLAMES, SPARKS OR LIT TOBACCO PRODUCTS. THIS PRODUCT IS COMBUSTIBLE.




WARNING: READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS PACKAGED WITH THE DISODORIZER®.




SERVICE PROCEDURE

A/C ODOR TREATMENT PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS PROCEDURE WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE ON ODORS EMITTED FROM AREAS OTHER THAN THE EVAPORATOR CORE. FOR EXAMPLE: MILDEW ODORS DUE TO WET CARPET WHICH ARE CIRCULATED BY THE A/C SYSTEM. BE SURE YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED THE TYPE AND SOURCE OF ODOR BEFORE PERFORMING THIS REPAIR.



The A/C System Disodorizer® (F6AZ-19G210-AA or YN-18) is a full strength disodorizer which requires no dilution or mixing. Each vehicle treated will require 240 mL (8 fluid ounces) to complete the procedure.


NOTE: THE ROTUNDA A/C DISODORIZER SPRAYER 164-R4700 IS ONLY TO BE USED WITH THE YN-18 A/C SYSTEM DISODORIZER AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.



The A/C System Disodorizer® can be applied using the Rotunda A/C Disodorizer® Sprayer 164-R4700. The disodorizer must be applied through the blower motor or the blower motor resistor/controller opening for proper coverage. Refer to the following Disodorizer® Application Location Chart to determine which component to remove.
 

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Originally posted by SHOZ123@Aug 30 2004, 11:59 AM
The cabin filter and interior air intake are in the passengers side cowl. You have to remove the upper part of the cowl to get to it. Be careful with the cheap plastic screws. Some are a 1/4 turn and pull out, some are threaded.

Pour some disinfectant down there with the blower on high or Ford has a TSB on this too if you want them to bilk you.

TSB 99-19-5 or 98-2-7

ISSUE:
Musty and mildew type odors may come from the air conditioning/heating system. These odors may be caused by mildew-type fungi growth in the A/C evaporator. It is most noticeable when the A/C is first turned on.

ACTION:
A new Disodorizer® which encapsulates the mildew is now available to help reduce these odors. A new Moisture Purge Module (MPM) which operates the blower motor when the vehicle is parked to dry out the evaporator core is now available for these vehicles. Apply the Air Conditioning System Disodorizer® (F6AZ-19G210-AA or YN-18, or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M99B187-A) product to the A/C system, install the MPM as directed in the following Service Procedure, and review the Odor Service Tips.


WARNING: AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN. CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN WILL CAUSE IRRITATION. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING THE DISODORIZER®.




WARNING: THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED IN WELL VENTILATED AREAS. OPEN ALL WINDOWS AND DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. LEAVE DOORS AND WINDOWS OPEN DURING THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE. AVOID BREATHING VAPORS.




WARNING: AVOID FLAMES, SPARKS OR LIT TOBACCO PRODUCTS. THIS PRODUCT IS COMBUSTIBLE.




WARNING: READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS PACKAGED WITH THE DISODORIZER®.




SERVICE PROCEDURE

A/C ODOR TREATMENT PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS PROCEDURE WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE ON ODORS EMITTED FROM AREAS OTHER THAN THE EVAPORATOR CORE. FOR EXAMPLE: MILDEW ODORS DUE TO WET CARPET WHICH ARE CIRCULATED BY THE A/C SYSTEM. BE SURE YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED THE TYPE AND SOURCE OF ODOR BEFORE PERFORMING THIS REPAIR.



The A/C System Disodorizer® (F6AZ-19G210-AA or YN-18) is a full strength disodorizer which requires no dilution or mixing. Each vehicle treated will require 240 mL (8 fluid ounces) to complete the procedure.


NOTE: THE ROTUNDA A/C DISODORIZER SPRAYER 164-R4700 IS ONLY TO BE USED WITH THE YN-18 A/C SYSTEM DISODORIZER AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.



The A/C System Disodorizer® can be applied using the Rotunda A/C Disodorizer® Sprayer 164-R4700. The disodorizer must be applied through the blower motor or the blower motor resistor/controller opening for proper coverage. Refer to the following Disodorizer® Application Location Chart to determine which component to remove.
Does every Taurus SE have a cabinet filter? I read from the manual and it is said to be optional. I have looked it up according to hayne's manul and can't find it. It there still a way I can locate the intake and spray lysol into?

Thanks very much for the input!
 

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No they don't all have them. You still need to take the cowling off to find out or put in the disinfectant.

Take off your cowling and let us know.
 

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I have a '97 Gen III Vulcan and I am in the process of doing my 3rd coolant flush/fill. I did my first one at 50K, my second one at 70K and now again at 90K. All 3 times I have had this brown discolored coolant.

Here are my questions:

What is the brown stuff in the coolant? I imagine it is rust... Where is it coming from? How does it clog the heater core? Why wouldn't it just run right through it?

I've never experienced any loss of heat, but do you think it's a good idea to flush the heater core anyhow? Lastly, what preventative measures can I take...other than constantly flush and fill.

Thanks.
 
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