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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay i flushed my system back in November and the heat came back a little for a few weeks and lasted enough to get me through winter.

Now i am worried about winter again with my heat still not working and after already flushing all this gunk out in this thread.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/153226-oh-no-i-flushed-my-heater-core.html


I am going to replace the thermostat next but i am pretty sure its good just going to for maintenance and i am suspecting a bad heater core.

Is it expensive to get a heater core replaced at the dealership or shop?

Or could it be something else. My system always stays perfectly in the middle of the temp gauge, never dips or rises in winter/summer any type or driving. I have driven it hard, slow, lots of traffic, lots of interstate, no fluctuations.

Thoughts?
 

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While researching my loss of A/C this summer I determined it was due to the blend door actuator failing. When that happens it is supposed to fail causing the blend door to fall into the "always hot" position (i.e. heater full blast). Perhaps yours failed in the opposite direction. If you have automatic climate controls just think about the manual versions with a lever or dial turned to cold all the time. Just a hunch since you've tried just about everything else.

I should also note that with my blend door actuator removed I am able to move the door between both positions. It is on a spring and lever mechanism. You have to remove the stereo and if you don't have tiny hands, remove the dash portions around the radio. Not incredibly difficult. Might be worth taking a look at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
But i have some heat when i turn it to hot and i got almost full heat back after flushing the system and core.

I can also hear my blend door opening and closing
 

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If the rust scale I seen in your older post is what came out, flush it again, both directions. Also have you checked water pump? That seems excessive for just scale rust from the block.

Just a side note, if the cooling system is full of dirt and not flushed out at teh same time as the heatercore, you can expect the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From threads i read late last winter i assumed it was the water pump but i am having no overheating or fluctuations in temperature which makes me believe its something else.

I am assuming from everything i have seen, read and experienced its the heater core needing replaced, but i hate to replace it and have the same problem.

Anyone know how much it costs to get a heatercore replaced at a shop?

Or if i bring it to them and tell them my heat is broken maybe they can diagnose it better.
 

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;)Try this, first disconnect heater hoses at water pump and engine block, put a funnel in the water pump end (ad an extension hose if needed) then poor some "liquid plumber gel" in funnel. Wait about half an hour, then run a garden hose through system. I got this idea on line last year,tried it, and it worked great! You should also clamp your heater core bypass crossover tube with vise-grips or something while performing this operation. This will insure that the water goes through the core and not the bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did clamp the heater hose bypass and flushed the system forward, backward, and even blew air into it to get all that crud out but i haven't even tried a radiator flush product yet.

Is liquid plumber really the best choice, i was thinking of going with some of that prestone cooling system flush product
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am not opposed to trying that but i am a little iffy on trying something like that which i have not heard of and could possibly damage something.
 

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Liquid Plumber is a very strong caustic drain opener that weakens/destroys aluminum parts. Use Prestone Super Flush. Having a dealer change your heater core will co$t a lot. They will charge you the book rate for removing & reinstalling your entire dashboard, but will probably actually use the well documented & easy to perform shortcut, without removing the dash.
 
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