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Discussion Starter #1
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anyway...wouldn't copper plugs get screwed under the high temps produced by the "NOS" ? (as opposed to platinum,which has higher heat tolerance) and nitrous f#!*s your heads if i remember correctly! Most engines that have "NOS" only last for like what...20,000K, or something like that. So in my opinion: "If you what to blingify, homify, ricify, crapify. Dont do it to the taurus"[/b]
Bob, I hope it's ok for me to quote this from the locked thread. It's strictly to offer information, not to add to the flaming.

First off, copper plugs are less prone to foul with nitrous. Platinum plugs will foul quicker. Copper plugs are also generally cooler in temp and promote heat transfer, which helps prevent knock or timing retard. Knock on any engine = death. On an un-naturally aspirated motor it = death with a light show.


Nitrous does absolutely nothing to your heads, unless you run into detonation, in which case it not only ruins your heads, but your pistons, valves, cylinder wall, etc. If you are smart you don't run into detonation.

Nitrous will not lead to a motor lasting only 20,000 miles. Improperly installed nitrous may, but otherwise, it's just a matter of a fool with a bad setup getting lucky for 20,000 miles before his motor finally dies.

In my opinion, if you have to ask what sized shot you need to run, you need to do a lot more reading up before even thinking about nitrous, and I don't say that to be mean; I say that in hopes that your ignorance (not a bad thing) will not lead you to the destruction of your motor.

I personally would not run a shot of any type without an Air/Fuel gauge or pyrometer. Even a scantool like an Autotap would be great, so that you can see timing retard. If there is timing retard, you are knocking and your fun will be short lived.

Properly installed and well thought out nitrous systems are the most reliable form of artificial aspiration. They also come in with a cheap initial price tag. This is why the young unexperienced types blow things up with it so often.
 

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A bit off topic. This autotap you are talking about? How much and where from? I have my water injection in now and I want to see if it's making any difference on my timing.
 

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www.autotap.com

It's only for OBDII so you'll need a '96 or newer vehicle for it to work. I've been sooo very close to buying autotap for quite a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by 1fast97@Feb 14 2004, 09:53 PM
www.autotap.com

It's only for OBDII so you'll need a '96 or newer vehicle for it to work. I've been sooo very close to buying autotap for quite a while.
It's great... It gives you virtually every variable you could hope for, but in real time.

Jason, a properly set up dry kit would be more than enough on any Taurus. I can't imagine running a big enough shot on a Taurus (Vulcan/ Duratec) that would requirea wet kit. Just seems like overkill to me.
 
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Interesting thread, and yeah it's OK Mike to quote that, I understand.

One note on the Vulcan and Autotap though, the Gen 3 with the exception of the FFV engines, don't have knock sensors. From what I understand, the IAT signal has a lot to do with timing advance/retard. Simply put, the cooler the intake air charge, the more the timing advances.

With this in mind, it makes sense to me that in this application, the nitrous should be injected after the IAT, correct?

Also, is there any other way besides computer programming to make the Vulcan retard timing?

Could a knock sensor be added and written into the computer program?

Seems to me that the benefits of water injection would really be useful in an application like this too.
 
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