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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i got my new stuff in...just for gits and shiggles, i wanted to hook up the rear deck ones last night using the ford adapters

first, taking everything apart was a B***H! gen3's are sooooo much easier :)

ok, after pretty much disassembling the entire back seat, i finally got to the damn things. removing was simple, just pulled the screws and disconnected the adapters. then i just attached the ford adapters and plugged in the new ones (until i have time to run my new speaker wire and new amp, etc)

so right now it's just stock stuff w/new rear deck's....my first problem i ran into was the screws...the phillips screws the new speakers came with wouldn't all work..some of the screw holes had apparently been stripped, as even the old stock screws would just keep on spinnin' :/

as for sound, i need to know why these things sound like crap right now. like, i can hear them, and they sound clear, but they don't have any sort of a punch what-so-ever. could that be due to the couple screws that the threads have been set wrong (therefore, possible seating issues...i notice a bit of small vibration)

could it be due to the stock amp and it not putting out enough power?

i've got a 700W amp (and i didn't know it was 700, it just said 60W x 4) that's going to replace the stock tuner/amp....will that help sound?

also, what can i do about the stripped threads? any way to get that fixed?
 

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The screws wouldn't have anything to do with there being a weak sound. That has everything to do with your amplifier. I can't say what a stock system sounds like with aftermarket speakers, since I've never heard one. What kind of speakers did you buy? Are you sure that you don't have the polarities reversed? If you have the polarities reversed on the speakers, it'll cause a lack of bass and a diminished overall sound quality. Change the positions of the connectors. As for the screw holes, you can just get bigger screws and drill a larger hole to screw them into. You could also drill new holes in the basket and the frame of the car to mount new screws in.

JR
 

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They don't have much punch because you're running them off the head unit, they will sound much better once you get your amp hooked up.

Edit: assuming you have them hooked up right
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
are the polarities right? i'd hope so...each connector via the adapter only fits one way

they are Kenwood KFC-C6879ie's

i had some kfc's in my gen3, and they sounded badass...and these were better, so i assumed they'd sound better w/stock..though, now that i think about it, i also replaced the HU, which added the 45Wx4 preamp

ok, i'm not as scared now that i remember my old hu replacement (i've been comparing to past experiences)

im kind of thinking of taking the rest of the day off after lunch and working on this now...but i'm not sure who imma get a drill from to do bigger holes, heh. :/ crap
 

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You could try riveting them in if you don't have a drill (don't know if you have a pop riveter tho...). Zip ties also work well, i've secured several speakers using zip ties. Also, how many loose screws do you have? If it's only like one for each speaker, its probably not a huge deal, especially in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by golovko@Aug 11 2004, 10:43 AM
You could try riveting them in if you don't have a drill (don't know if you have a pop riveter tho...). Zip ties also work well, i've secured several speakers using zip ties. Also, how many loose screws do you have? If it's only like one for each speaker, its probably not a huge deal, especially in the rear.
it just seems to be like 1 screw in each speaker

maybe im just making this up because not everything's hooked up. i guess we'll see ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by j0rd4n+Aug 11 2004, 11:01 AM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (j0rd4n @ Aug 11 2004, 11:01 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-golovko@Aug 11 2004, 10:43 AM
You could try riveting them in if you don't have a drill (don't know if you have a pop riveter tho...).  Zip ties also work well, i've secured several speakers using zip ties.  Also, how many loose screws do you have?  If it's only like one for each speaker, its probably not a huge deal, especially in the rear.
it just seems to be like 1 screw in each speaker

maybe im just making this up because not everything's hooked up. i guess we'll see ;D [/b][/quote]
pop riveter? neg, are they cheap? :)
 

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they're only like $20. What I meant was that you could use it (pop rivets) in place of where the stripped out screws go. Do you need the drill because some of the holes aren't aligned? If it's only one hole that isn't aligned, I wouldn't worry about it, as long as the other three are good and secure.


edit: is the vibration you're noticing seem to come from the speaker cone or the contact point between the speaker and rear deck? If it's the latter choice, then the speakers probably aren't as secure as they should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
they're all in place, but the heads of the stock screws are so big it rubs right against the speaker frame when they're being screwed down....

ok, so i'll check out the pop rivets thing...after i run the wiring :)
 

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Originally posted by j0rd4n@Aug 11 2004, 02:00 PM
man i can't leave for another 2 hours...waahhhh
lol, I know the feeling. I sit at work sometimes just waiting to get off so I can go work on my car, especially the last 3 weeks or so.
 

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Any speaker i ever bought came with clips that went over the old screw hole...then you just put the screw thru the speaker frame and it threaded right through them..... Both my Clarion's, and Koves came with them, as well as my cheapo's i used to have in my tempo...(Phase Linear and Premier)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
can i get pop rivets at any hardware store?

tmonster, if i had some sort of clips, they'd have to be for little tiny screws, cause these screws are already like 1/8"
 

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use a set of screws and bolts...washers would be good to of course....this way if a rivet gets messed up you dont have to go drillin and cursin and breaking things like me.. :lol2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
k, first i got some pop rivets...the ones the store gave me (after i gave them one of the screws that fit) weren't the right kind, so i got another opinion. i thought about buying a drill (suprisingly, they're on sale at lowe's, lol), but she suggested something new. and HOLY CRAP did it work

a product by Loctite called Threadlocker. you apply it to the threading, screw it in, BAM, that thing is stuck. it says it takes 500 degrees to break the seal (though that's only so much torque, cause she said they used to be able to break them with a semi-high torque air-powered screwdriver)

this stuff doesn't lie..it's amazing. i thought about going the nut and bolt way, but for the front speakers, there's no way to reach them.

right now i just got the rear deck speakers attached. i just ran the wire (8-gauge) from each speaker along existing lines (im keeping them in case i wanna go back to factories if i sell the car or what-not) to the rear. now for amp placement...where should this thing go? i though of attaching it to the metal bottom part, but im afraid i'll drill into something (once i get a drill! lol)

amp placement suggestions?

im heading back out now to see how the fronts are wired...particularaly the front passenger..i'm not sure if it runs along the door bottom or runs over to the driver side...and feeding it through those tubes is going to be a bitch..esp at 9:30, lolol

well, wish me luck! :) i'll stop by later (of course i'm trying to remember to get as many pics as possible)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
AAHHH SPEAKER ISSUE

ok, so im unhooking all the factory speakers in the front doors, and im getting ready to run my new wire, and i'm like...WTF HOW DO I RUN IT THROUGH THOSE TUBES OUT OF THE DOOR????? i've almost ripped my hands completely up, and i can't figure it out...ideas?
 

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When i hooked my poineer 4way 6x8s up to my factory stereo it sounded fine, as long as i didn't turn the bas all the way up. I replaced my head unit and still see no need to buy an amp for the speakers, they keep up with my subs just fine. The speakers i think have a peak power rating above 200 watts
 
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