[ram89ns]

Great site you guys and gals have here. I do need help!! I have a '93 taurus 3.8l with 200k on it with the motor recently rebuilt. The problems are:

#1 The engine seems to be spitting at idle and misses upon accelleration. Codes read- 136, and 172 (both sides running lean). I ran around the engine with propane and I didn't seem to find any vacum leaks. I also sprayed electric contact cleaner on the MAF sensor elements ,cleaned the air bypass valve, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the temp sensor, etc... I think I'm in need of new ego sensors but......I'm getting different answers as to the sensor part numbers... whether the two sensors are the same or if they have different part numbers???? What to do ????

#2 I had the tranny housing replaced by the dealer b/c it had a crack in it, thus destroying the starter and flywheel. Since then I had two flywheels replaced ( at $400.00 per job) and I just replaced the fifth starter drive. Everyone is stumped as to why!! When they rebuilt the engine they said that a new crank bearing was installed (oversized I think). WhenI start it on occasion it seems like the engine is "back starting".....does that make sense?? It seems to be reaking havick on the starting system.

The car itself is in exceptional shape, wine in color recently painted, and solid. But if I can't resolve these probs. it might have been all for nothing, then I'm just stuck in debt with nothing to drive the wife and kids around in. Please lend your wisdom and experience and get me back in shape... Thank's a lot!!

 

[mwt]

Originally posted by ram89ns@Sep 17 2004, 07:44 PM
When they rebuilt the engine they said that a new crank bearing was installed (oversized I think).

As far as the the bearings go when they rebuilt it if they did it right they machined the main bearing journals on the crank which means they removed metal. This means when they put new bearings in they put diffrent sized bearings in to compensae for the metal removed to get the correct clearances. If it was done right that should not be a factor.

As for the rest of the problems check that you have the correct motor and tranny mounts and that the engine and tranny are aligned properly.

I know that's not much help but it is something to check.

Mike
B)

 

[Bob Gervais]

Was the engine line bored when they did the bearings/rebuld? This is a long shot, but they may not have line bored it correctly, making everything sitt off center line.

Also, there should be two locating dowels on the trans to line it up properly with the engine. If those are missing, it may cause problems.

For the lean issue, if the car wasn't doing that before the engine rebuild, I'd suspect something besides the HEGOs. One problem area in manifold sealing I've noticed is the EGR valve. I would double check for vacuum leaks.

Is the idle higher than normal?

 

[shoz123]

The different part numbers from the O2 sensors is usually due to the length of wire.

On some starters there are different number of gear teeth. Just a guess. I had a '79 4 cyl. Muskrat that would eat a starter every year or so, whether new, rebuilt or j/y variety. Never did find out the problem but sure got good at changing starters......

 

[ram89ns]

Thanks fella's, the car is not idleing higher than normal, the tranny is lined up properly, and there is no mechanical noise at all (knocking, tapping, etc...). I'm goin to replace both EGO sensors later today. The dealer has none in stock, but I can get a couple of Bosch (I guess they're just as good). I'll read the codes again while crossing my fingers. I'll let you know, thanks again. Oh and the starter is slipping about every eight starts or so, a couple of chipped teeth I'll have to live with and hope it doesn't get worse :huh: .

 

[ram89ns]

OK.... bought new sensors, installed them and did koer test and no more codes showing....whewwww!! It did run a little rough for about a mile or so until the comp. relearned its environment and it's idleing and running smoother than ever now.
A little tip for those of you that have trouble removing the rear sensor....take your 7/8" wrench, place it between two solid surfaces (I used an old rear end), put a long pipe on it and bend it about four inches from the open end at a good angle. It only took a minute to remove it. Funny how that little yellow (check engine light) can really ruin your day... Anyway, the car's put away for the night and I guess now I'll have to tune up the wife (she's throwin' a couple of codes) :lol2:



THANKS..