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I am posting this for my brother as I am the mechanic of the family - sort of!!
His car is a 1999 Taurus SE, Vulcan, Auto, completely stock.
Over the last couple years he has had his rotors turned, re-turned and replaced and they never lasted more than 10,000 miles before getting warped again. So this time around we decided to replace them with EBC rotors and GreenStuff Pads. We did the job ourselves. The old pads were completely gone all the way down to the metal plate. His right rotor looked like somebody had taken a torch to it on the inside surface. The other three rotor surfaces had grooves in them.
The installation went fine, I scraped all of the rust off of the hub behind the rotor, cleaned up the calipers, greased everything and all. We used a C-clamp to compress the caliper. At first we cracked the bleeder screw and squeezed the fluid out, but we ended up just leaving the screw shut on the second caliper and letting the fluid go back into the fluid canister . I hope we didn't get any air into the system by cracking the bleeder..??
After getting everything back together we test drove it and the steering wheel vibrates just as bad as it did before when you brake!! I don't have a torque wrench, but I did my best to torque each lug the same by using my weight on the wrench. Is there something I didn't do or could the shaking actually not be caused by the brakes? Thanks for any input!
His car is a 1999 Taurus SE, Vulcan, Auto, completely stock.
Over the last couple years he has had his rotors turned, re-turned and replaced and they never lasted more than 10,000 miles before getting warped again. So this time around we decided to replace them with EBC rotors and GreenStuff Pads. We did the job ourselves. The old pads were completely gone all the way down to the metal plate. His right rotor looked like somebody had taken a torch to it on the inside surface. The other three rotor surfaces had grooves in them.
The installation went fine, I scraped all of the rust off of the hub behind the rotor, cleaned up the calipers, greased everything and all. We used a C-clamp to compress the caliper. At first we cracked the bleeder screw and squeezed the fluid out, but we ended up just leaving the screw shut on the second caliper and letting the fluid go back into the fluid canister . I hope we didn't get any air into the system by cracking the bleeder..??
After getting everything back together we test drove it and the steering wheel vibrates just as bad as it did before when you brake!! I don't have a torque wrench, but I did my best to torque each lug the same by using my weight on the wrench. Is there something I didn't do or could the shaking actually not be caused by the brakes? Thanks for any input!