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Discussion Starter #1
Well I've had the plans to make a new box for a while now.. I have 2 12" Kicker Solo Barics L7's and I recently got some time off of work ...SO.... I started working on it yesterday and got it done today. My old box is a Prefab single chamber Pro Box 212SQSPB SuperBass L: 38” W: 24.5” H: 14.5” with an air space of 2.75 cu. ft. per side. The new box is dual chamber L: 36.75” W: 24” H: 14.75” each chamber is 2.9 cubes before port and sub displacement 1.944 cubes after port and sub displacement. Which means more bumps in the trunk!!

Here is the plan I used.






And here is a couple of shots of the box, don't mind the caluking lol I almost sealed it it without taking any shots of the inside of the box lol...







I can't quite mount the subs on there yet ... gotta let the caulking dry 100%... that stuff puts off fumes that will ruin your subs lol. Anyways there it is for now.. its not 100% done.. I plan on making some other stuff fro the trunck.. amp rack ect but thats it for today im tired lol...
 

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nice box man, thats gonna thump
just a little tip that came in handy for me-
the last box we built i used cork gasket maker (from autozone) along with glue. it made a really tight seal
 

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Discussion Starter #5
nice box man, thats gonna thump
just a little tip that came in handy for me-
the last box we built i used cork gasket maker (from autozone) along with glue. it made a really tight seal
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I used T-Rex Caulk untill I ran out then used some Liquid Nails Projects Caulking , trust me Ill need a sledge hammer to break this thing apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I then made a floor piece and put everything in the trunk... after it was dry of course. It still needs some bed liner or carpet, haven't decided which yet. I also need to put some braces on the box.





new mids/highs & amp

 

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That's about the size of my box, but yours is put together much better. What thickness mdf did you use on the floor? Shot of the back dash Plz :x:
 

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You want me to break out the tools don't you :p lo lwell I do need a shot of them speakers for my garage ... i suppose i could.... Just bare with my make shift template...i wanna make a fiberglass one that looks better but i haven't yet. Also I had a 6x9 template on there that I attached the 6 1/2 template to... What can I say it was cold and 3 am lol..... Although it is 70 atm so..... lol ok you inspired me to go fix my rear deck lol ill take some shots when I'm done. I'll take a before and after.
 

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Dude, I was thinking, you could put a s8l7 in the center sub hole in the back dash for when you are just driving aroiund and don't necessarily want to pound.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could but they're not free air subs... so they would sound like :bootyshake:

btw here is a quick shot




Oh and here is a video of the system ... My camera is hella sucky at recording audio so it distorts way too much. Also it doesn't captue all of the flexing that was going on :(

 

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:eek: BIG.

Couple questions. What formula/calculator do you use to calculate how large/long the slot port should be, so that it is tuned correctly?

Also, (random), are there cons to doing a down-firing setup? I'd like to try a down-firing box, with a front-firing slot port for my next box. I'm just wondering if that would be a bad thing.

Good work! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
:eek: BIG.

Couple questions. What formula/calculator do you use to calculate how large/long the slot port should be, so that it is tuned correctly?

Also, (random), are there cons to doing a down-firing setup? I'd like to try a down-firing box, with a front-firing slot port for my next box. I'm just wondering if that would be a bad thing.

Good work! :thumb:
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http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=21
 

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You could remove the tension rod setup and install a pneumatic strut to open the trunk. Then fiberglass a box over that section
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You could remove the tension rod setup and install a pneumatic strut to open the trunk. Then fiberglass a box over that section
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Hmmm , interesting and very true.
 
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