Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got about 600 watts rms going in my car, and I dont have a major headlight dimming problem, but I have noticed some signs of power loss here and there, like when I crank the system. Since Domestic Performance sells a 200 amp alternator which is 70 more than stock, would I notice a difference in sound? Or would a cap be a better way to go in my situation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
You don't need either. Get a better battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
952 Posts
Hate to drag out old trash, but I need to ask again, cause obviously I have a thick skull...

Why is it a better battery would help with dimming lights and insufficient electrical problems?

Sure I can understand that bigger and better battery would help instantly and all, but if your alternator isn't providing enough power to both charge your battery and run all your electronics, regardless of how nice a bettery you have, won't it eventually completely discharge? If your battery is providing more power then your alternator is, aren't you using the charge faster then the battery is getting recharged? I don't quite understand the theory behind it. If it works, it works, but I'm not sure why it works is all.

By the way, I have a 1.2 Farad cap on my 500 Watt RMS system and I still have light dimming problems. A cap isn't your answer.

-Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
i have a 6 farad cap with my 3000watt system and it helps a little but not enough. I also got a deep cycle in the trunk along with my starting battery and it helps until you drain the battery. Ultimatly you DO need a bigger alt and i am looking at a 250 amp one. Dant98 you have the right idea. You can have a bunch of batteries but if your alt only makes 130amps and you are drawing near 160 to 200, then no matter how many you got, you will eventually end up with dimming lights again unless you charge it with a bettery charger when not using the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well I dont know how much the stock system has on it without the system. And since I am drawing 50 amps with the system, only when it hits, and at full volume, its not a constant 50 amp draw. So my question is, when it hits, with the 200 amp alternator in will that make a difference? Or is a better battery/cap a better solution to my situation
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
425 Posts
I've seen 220 amp alternators for a SHO plus, you'll need a good deep cycle battery like an Optima or Exide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
I agree, a good optima deep cycle in combination with a better alternator should solve your problem. My system is drawing at least 80 amps when it hits, just for a refernce. I have 2 awg running from my battery to my trunk, where it goes into my cap, there it splits(since my cap has 4 inputs and outputs(or+ and- conn.)) and one 2 awg wires goes to the battery and the other goes to my dist. block where it splits in 4 awg, one for each of my amps. I have 2 ground lugs, one from my cap and the other from my batter, just for extra precaution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
But my point is, Im drawing 50 amps, when it hits, which is not 100% of your average "boom" song, and its much less than that for rock. That is at full volume, which I do not keep it at all the time. I've only experienced minor light dimming, so I figured a cap/ yellow top ( prob the cheaper cap) would be the way to go, but I never got around to it, and since I just saw that 200 amp alternator, I ask which one would be better; because caps are just "band-aids".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
425 Posts
If I were you, I'd buy a cap. At least 1 or 1.5 Farred. This will allow you to draw a better surge. If you do all 3 (new alt, batt, & cap), you will have maximum gains. Otherwise, it's your amplifier that is the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
i see what u r saying now. You could prolly try a cap, from what i heard, systems that draw less power and have dimming lights, a cap would work. I would say if you had the money to get the alt too, but i would think a cap would work. especially if you are only getting minor light dim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
QUOTE
You can also put in bigger wire from the alt->batt[/b]
I agree, that may help a little too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
there are three big wires under the hood that you will STRONGLY benefit from changing. ill drag up which three they are later, but if you change the stock wire from these three with bigger gauge wire, this will help out your charging syste. the same goes for the power wire leading to the amplifier. the bigger the wire, the less internal resistance, the less current draw.

also a better battery will help alot. you dont have to go optima or any of the expensive audio concentrated brands. i noticed a huge difference just using a batt from wal-mart, just lok for the most cold cranking amps. an audio specified battery will be better, but the cheaper alternative may work as well.

dont get a cap, they are useless, i can explain if i have to, but its lengthy.

P.S.--where can i get the 220 amp SHO alt?? and how much?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
425 Posts
Originally posted by hoss@Jan 13 2004, 03:21 PM
there are three big wires under the hood that you will STRONGLY benefit from changing. ill drag up which three they are later, but if you change the stock wire from these three with bigger gauge wire, this will help out your charging syste. the same goes for the power wire leading to the amplifier. the bigger the wire, the less internal resistance, the less current draw.

also a better battery will help alot. you dont have to go optima or any of the expensive audio concentrated brands. i noticed a huge difference just using a batt from wal-mart, just lok for the most cold cranking amps. an audio specified battery will be better, but the cheaper alternative may work as well.

dont get a cap, they are useless, i can explain if i have to, but its lengthy.

P.S.--where can i get the 220 amp SHO alt?? and how much?
1st off, capacitors work, but they can only give you a minimal gains and it doesn't last very long. They only serve as a regulator. I've had mine for over a year and I've never felt that it has been a waste of money. Before I bought my system, I had power fluxes all the time, especially when I came to a stop light. It helps to seady the amplifer, but it doesn't last for very long. I've heard many negative things about caps, but I've had nothing but success with mine. When amp is cool is when the cap works at its best. If you have a good battery, you really don't need a cap, but anything helps when you have a strong amp.

2nd. I saw a 220 watt amp sold at CincySho.com a few months ago for $349 and it was powder coated black, but I looked again today and they didn't have any and not even on back order. I think the demand ran out or there was never a demand for them.

Do a search for high performance alternators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Originally posted by minutiesabotage@Jan 13 2004, 07:23 PM
Oh I know all about the flaws of caps, dont worry. What three wires are you talking about?
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

here is a GREAT tutorial on how to do it http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimat...ic;f=5;t=007801

thanks for the alt info MykeJ27, i thought maybe i could save some money other than having a custom built alt, but i can get one with more output for barely less than that. thanks for the info though. as for caps though... i wont get into it too much here, but if you look deeper into the info on how long they take to charge, they really arent the best option... but glad yours is workin for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
hoss hit it right on, first thing you do is ADD those 3 wires, you dont necesarily need to replace the stock ones. secondly, a bigger alt. i know of 2 places off the top of my head where you can get custom built alts. :
Dominick Iraggi [[email protected]]
I asked him how much for a 97 sohc and he said a 220amp for $339 and a 240 amp for $359

and this guy nathan peddicord [[email protected]]
he said he could build me a 200amp for $305 for the same car.

i personaly would go with dominik, MANY people on sd forums recomend him for alts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
QUOTE
Dominick Iraggi [[email protected]]
I asked him how much for a 97 sohc and he said a 220amp for $339 and a 240 amp for $359[/b]
this man is the alternator GOD!!!!!!!!!!!! he is an absolute genius. he has an old cadillac that does upwards of 160 Db using 6.5"s. he WILL be building my alt, i contacted him long ago about it, and i have yet to scrape up the cash to get it. i have several friends running his alts, all work beautifly. he quoted me the same prices, then he told me i would have a hell of a time getting it in the engine bay
. but i knew that, that bay is tight.

but if you ever want a great alt, dominick is the way to go
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
is he using that snail shell box by powered4sound? just curious, cause they made a big deal about that box on their site, and i was thinking of getting one for my 2 10w7's, but i want the sq, not the spl, so im gonna go with just JL recomended porting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
You really don't need bigger wires going from the alternator to battery or the starter. What you need is bigger wire going from the amp to the battery and a deep discharge battery.

A bigger alternator is not going to be that much of a help seeing as you aren't using even %50 of the one you have. You need a battery that can quickly deliver large amounts of amperage and the big wire to deliver it.

I suggest at least #4 wire from the battery to the amp and an Odyssey battery. I have a small 26 lb PC 925 Odyssey and it will deliver all you need for both your amp and starting the car.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top