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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:) i will start off by saying i searched the wiki but foiund nothing except tranny flush.

since i'm on vacation first week in march i'm going to do some things to the taurus.
the antifreeze looks like oil and thats not a lie at all, it's been maybe twice in its 100g miles.
i cannot find any how to's except some parts like it has to be done from the bottom hose on passenger
side. you have to take off the the t stat to prevent blow out.

where can i find a good how to on this?

also going to change pcv valve since i think it's original and i noticed the hose is cracked
in a lot of places. :huh:
 

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Here is the best way to flush your cooling system.

You need two gallons of 100% antifreeze, about 6 gallons of distiled water and a bottle of radiator flush. An empty gallon jug, container to drain the used antifreeze in and a quart measuring vessel.

Drain it at the lower radiator hose.



Flush out with cold tap water filling at the over flow tank and pinching off the 1" hose that goes between the overflow tank and the lower radiator. this forces the water through the engine and out the radiator. Engine does not have to be running.

Let drain and connect the lower hose again, add a bottle of radiator flush and fill with distilled water.

Drive around for a while, day whatever.

Drain and flush with the cold water again. Hook up hose and refill with distilled water. Let engine idle for 20 minutes or so. Drain the water out at the hose.

Mix up some 30/70 coolant using one gallon of concentrate and some 50/50 using the other gallon of concentrate. Use distilled water to mix.

Add the 70/30 mix and top off with the 50/50 mix. Let coolant settle in for a 1/2 hour and top off.

You can check it again in the morning or after you drive and let it cool off and refill. Keep the coolant tank completely full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks sho,
the clamp pictured on yours just a vis grip and will it break when i move it, then just replace with a hose
clamp.

i've read to disconnect the t stat before doing it to prevent it from blowing out, is this true?

are car ramps my best approach?
bryan
 

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I keep the OEM clamp on there but a regular worm clamp will work if the original one needs replacing. You can get to this without removing the plastic shield. Yes some ramps or jacking up the subframe will make it easier.

I use a 5 gallon bucket to collect the used antifreeze and just let the rinse water and such run on the ground.

As far as the t-stat as long as you don't let the pressure in the engine build up to the city water pressure you are OK.
 

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I'd like to say thanks as well, This was really helpful for me. You really simplified it compared to other things I've found on here. Good info. I'll be referring back to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I keep the OEM clamp on there but a regular worm clamp will work if the original one needs replacing. You can get to this without removing the plastic shield. Yes some ramps or jacking up the subframe will make it easier.

I use a 5 gallon bucket to collect the used antifreeze and just let the rinse water and such run on the ground.

As far as the t-stat as long as you don't let the pressure in the engine build up to the city water pressure you are OK.
[/b]
thanks sho,
for the pcv valve and hose is it one unit i get from ford and that rubber bushing in the block is that
a replaceable item also.

i just never realized how abd the coolant color was.

just a peace of mind question could possibly that black color be oil from the engine or a cracked head
or for the color to be so bad i would have major oil loss?
would the dealer tell me when they do the oil changes i have a major problem?
bryan
 

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If the coolant is dark and discolored then it is from rust and corrosion inside the engine.
 

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If it's arctic temperatures like it was here, you could just get it done by a shop like I did...

The only problem is, when I got it done, they must have loosened some crud inside the system and now I get about half as much heat as I used to... Oh well, I look forward to doing the "Bill Clinton" flush this spring!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it's arctic temperatures like it was here, you could just get it done by a shop like I did...

The only problem is, when I got it done, they must have loosened some crud inside the system and now I get about half as much heat as I used to... Oh well, I look forward to doing the "Bill Clinton" flush this spring!
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i really don;t feel like dishing out 100 bucks so i'll do it myself, besides i'll have to
do it a couple of times it's that bad. to get it too normal temp it takes about 15 miles. :blink:
 

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SHO,
was wondering if you would suggest when I did this and have the radiator flush in for the day or so, if I should clamp off the bypass hose to the heater core to force the system to go through the core.

good/bad? what's your thoughts?
 

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How can we see what color it is if it is in a black bottle?
 

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On the 2000 Sable you'll need to remove two extra parts. A air dam and a cover for the hose. See pictures.





 

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2000Sable--thanks for the pictures! I replaced the lower hose on my '03 Taurus yesterday, and this same cover plate was there, as well as the plastic cover in your other picture.

I checked my hoses as part of yesterday's coolant change, and was shocked to find that the lower hose was touching the belt. A groove had already been worn into the hose, and I suppose it was only a matter of time before the hose failed. I replaced the hose and was pleased to see plenty of clearance between the belt and the new hose. It was difficult to get the old hose off because I was accessing it via the wheel well, and it was difficult to get pliers onto both sides of the squeeze-type hose clamp. I finally figured out I could use the box end of a 7/8 wrench to pull one side of the clamp's prongs so that I could reposition it on the hose, getting it into a position where pliers could be used to squeeze it. The next challenge was to get the old hose out and the new one in, which was a little difficult because of the T-fitting towards one end. This was minor compared to getting the clamp off, though!

The moral of this story is of course always check your hoses but be especially sure to check your lower hose to make sure it's not touching the belt.
 

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In case anyone cares, in order to do a 70% concentration of antifreeze in a Duratec, flush like above, then add 7qts and 12oz of pure antifreeze, then fill with water. 50% is 5qts 10oz
 
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