[DarkAlchemist]

3 of my 4 doors are flakey and the dealer will charge me $75.00 (1 hour labor charge) to tell me whats wrong BUT they said they had never seen 3 actuators go out and its probably 1 part that controls all of them (since sometimes they lock and sometimes they dont). What is this 1 part they spoke of and I wonder how I can test it (I just don't have the 75 + parts + more labor to get it diagnosed and fixed).

Anyone have any ideas on this?


Car is a 1998 Ford Taurus 3.0L U

Thank you.

 

[mikehawk]

Did all three locks crap out on you at the same time, or was it gradual? It's possible you could have a bunch of bad actuators, but 3 out of 4 is pretty rare.

If you have the time, you might want to swap out at least one of the bad ones just to see if you really have 3 bad ones, or if it's something else. I picked up an actuator at the junkyard for about 5 bucks.

 

[MelissaB]

That happened with my front passenger side door...haven't fixed it yet though.

 

[DarkAlchemist]

Don't really know as this was a used car but I would rather test this one part they are talking about instead of ripping the door panels off <_<

Still it just seems odd all of the doors do this except the drivers side and we know the drivers side would get the most work out of all the actuators.

 

[Guest]

Tell me one thing. Do the actuators make any noise at all? When my rear pass one failed, it make a loud buzzing noise. If yours are not making any noises, then I say you have a problem with the wiring. Which door is the one that works?

 

[majisto]

Seems to me like they should all go out about the same time. Just like brake lights going out in pairs, the power locks will always lock all the door at once.

 

[DarkAlchemist]

The working door is the drivers door and sometimes they work and they never ever not make a noise but the drivers door ALWAYS works.

So, beats me is all I can say.

Edit: The drivers door gets the most wear and tear because that door always unlocks regardless. Turn the key once drivers door unlocks turn it twice all do and I know I don't turn it twice when I am driving without any passengers.

The part they would test is the General Eletrical Module $179.00 and the actuators all cost the same at $72.35 per door.

 

[Rockledge]

QUOTE

The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) incorporates the functions of several different modules into one and offers diagnostics to locate and repair concerns affecting the subsystems that it controls.

The GEM constantly monitors the system and reports concerns in the form of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). The DTCs can be retrieved with the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent through the communication link.

The NGS is a menu-driven tester, allowing the user to run specific diagnostic tests. The NGS can isolate faults in the GEM subsystems through a symptom-driven diagnostic procedure....[/b]

Probably is the GEM that the dealer wants to test. Since you can't pull those codes yourself, and since you are not up to pulling panels, then the $75 dealer dagnostic charge sounds like your best bet to me.

 

[DarkAlchemist]

I went and purchased a book so I will wait for a nice spring day and remove my panels and do a swap job. If that works I will wait until the aftermarket people make them (they are coming) so I can buy them at 1/3-1/2 of the dealer price.


Thanks again everyone.-

 

[eCarâ„¢]

Originally posted by DarkAlchemist@Dec 29 2003, 04:12 PM
The working door is the drivers door and sometimes they work and they never ever not make a noise but the drivers door ALWAYS works.

Translated to English, would that mean that you are hearing a noise from each actuator, every time?

 

[smuryof]

Originally posted by DarkAlchemist@Dec 29 2003, 12:10 PM
3 of my 4 doors are flakey and the dealer will charge me $75.00 (1 hour labor charge) to tell me whats wrong BUT they said they had never seen 3 actuators go out and its probably 1 part that controls all of them (since sometimes they lock and sometimes they dont). What is this 1 part they spoke of and I wonder how I can test it (I just don't have the 75 + parts + more labor to get it diagnosed and fixed).

Anyone have any ideas on this?


Car is a 1998 Ford Taurus 3.0L U

Thank you.

We have this exact same problem. Well, more specifically, there is no sound from the other doors at all, driver's always works fine, whether you use the keychain buttons or the inside driver's lock controls. It's been this way as long as I can remember. This in a 2000 Taurus SE.

Looking at the wiring diagram confuses me, but it looks like I can test wires going to one of the non-functional actuators to see if its getting voltage... or something.

I know this post is ancient, but did you ever resolve this issue? If so, what was the problem?

 

[SilverThunder]

Originally posted by smuryof+Aug 29 2006, 02:20 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (smuryof @ Aug 29 2006, 02:20 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-DarkAlchemist@Dec 29 2003, 12:10 PM
3 of my 4 doors are flakey and the dealer will charge me $75.00 (1 hour labor charge) to tell me whats wrong BUT they said they had never seen 3 actuators go out and its probably 1 part that controls all of them (since sometimes they lock and sometimes they dont).  What is this 1 part they spoke of and I wonder how I can test it (I just don't have the 75 + parts + more labor to get it diagnosed and fixed).

Anyone have any ideas on this?


Car is a 1998 Ford Taurus 3.0L U

Thank you.

We have this exact same problem. Well, more specifically, there is no sound from the other doors at all, driver's always works fine, whether you use the keychain buttons or the inside driver's lock controls. It's been this way as long as I can remember. This in a 2000 Taurus SE.

Looking at the wiring diagram confuses me, but it looks like I can test wires going to one of the non-functional actuators to see if its getting voltage... or something.

I know this post is ancient, but did you ever resolve this issue? If so, what was the problem? [/b][/quote]
:blink: I don't think this person is around anymore....they've only had 4 posts...like 3 years ago

 

[smuryof]

Originally posted by SilverThunder+Aug 29 2006, 01:26 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (SilverThunder @ Aug 29 2006, 01:26 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>

Originally posted by [email protected] 29 2006, 02:20 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-DarkAlchemist

@Dec 29 2003, 12:10 PM
3 of my 4 doors are flakey and the dealer will charge me $75.00 (1 hour labor charge) to tell me whats wrong BUT they said they had never seen 3 actuators go out and its probably 1 part that controls all of them (since sometimes they lock and sometimes they dont).  What is this 1 part they spoke of and I wonder how I can test it (I just don't have the 75 + parts + more labor to get it diagnosed and fixed).

Anyone have any ideas on this?


Car is a 1998 Ford Taurus 3.0L U

Thank you.

We have this exact same problem. Well, more specifically, there is no sound from the other doors at all, driver's always works fine, whether you use the keychain buttons or the inside driver's lock controls. It's been this way as long as I can remember. This in a 2000 Taurus SE.

Looking at the wiring diagram confuses me, but it looks like I can test wires going to one of the non-functional actuators to see if its getting voltage... or something.

I know this post is ancient, but did you ever resolve this issue? If so, what was the problem?

:blink: I don't think this person is around anymore....they've only had 4 posts...like 3 years ago [/b][/quote]
Yea I figured as much. That's ok, I've already accepted the fact that I'll spend a few nights with wiring diagrams and frazzled nerves - electrical problems are the worst - so I'll just get it done instead of looking for easy answers....

Thanks!

 

[SilverThunder]

Good Luck

 

[rogue]

Maybe it has something to do with the window lock switch? Maybe it is faulty because your problem sounds exactly like the switch should do.

Edit: Just noticed how old this is. lol

 

[bob woods]

When mine start acting up I get out the WD40 and spray the lock assembly, also do it when the dome light stays on. Spray it inot the cracks and holes on the lock on each door.

 

[Two Stooges]

[/QUOTE]We have this exact same problem. Well, more specifically, there is no sound from the other doors at all, driver's always works fine, whether you use the keychain buttons or the inside driver's lock controls. It's been this way as long as I can remember. This in a 2000 Taurus SE.

Looking at the wiring diagram confuses me, but it looks like I can test wires going to one of the non-functional actuators to see if its getting voltage... or something.

I know this post is ancient, but did you ever resolve this issue? If so, what was the problem?

I suspect you're having the same problem I did with connector corrosion on my 2000 SE. Anyway this is worth a try: Try pulling off the connector on the door lock actuator(s) and spraying both the female and male sides with electronic switch cleaner and see if that fixes it. You'll have to pull the door panels(easy) and find and remove the connector on the actuator (harder). Once you've done one it's easy to replicate. I used the Ford Service Manual DVD to get the panel removal instructions. Well worth the investment if you are planning to keep the car. The actuator connector has either a clip-on or push-pin fitting and it's very hard to see due to it's location inside the door. Lots of light and a mirror might help.