Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks.... need some assistance, guidance if you will regarding my rear disc brake conversion. At 136K, I figured the OEM drums were shot, and I've wanted to upgrade to rear discs anyway...

Got the rear brakes completely assembled, no visible leaks. I need to bleed the brakes, but also wanted to flush the system with new/fresh fluid as the current fluid is still original.

I am using a Motive Brake Bleeder with the Ford adapter. I have no issues with the bleeder as it holds pressure fine. I started by filling the reservoir with some fresh fluid, attached the adapter, pressurized the system and went to work. I started at the passenger rear caliper (furthest from the master cylinder).
What concerned me was the fact that I had added one 32oz. bottle of the Valvoline brake fluid and there were bubbles constantly. I went through that bottle, closed the bleed valve and went to get more fluid.

When I re-started bleeding the brakes again, I added 2 bottles of fluid to the bleeder, connected the adapter and went to work again. I did NOT check or refill the master cylinder, nor did I check (opps). I re-opened the passenger rear caliper, and it started blowing some bubbles, then stopped.... fluid flowed with no bubbles but then some air bubbles came back. I stopped while I thought I was ahead and moved to the next caliper, driver-side rear. I don't recall a lot of bubbles after the initial surge as these were new calipers, no fluid in them previously.

I moved into the passenger front, and this went perfectly.... minimal bubbles, and I let it bleed out as I saw the dirty fluid transition into new fluid.

I moved to the driver-side front caliper.... right from the start I had A LOT of bubbles, that did not stop. I let it bleed for a few minutes then stopped as it was dark out.

As this is my first experience overhauling and bleeding a brake system, I do not know how long I should experience the air bubbles, how many bottles of fluid can expect to go through in efforts of pumping fresh fluid throughout the system and bleeding it free of air bubbles.

*** Note.... the night before, I disconnected the rear drums, and did NOT plug the lines, so they were open to the atmosphere for half a day or so. The vehicle is on jack stands, all 4 wheels are off the ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I can't check at the moment.. but is the master cylinder the same for the disc brakes as it is the drum brakes? Usually the master cylinder is different.

But honestly, the best way to bleed the brakes is to have someone pump the brake pedal for you while you watch the fluid come out of the bleeder valve.
when you bleed the brakes, and crack the screw open don't open it all the way, just a quick quarter turn, count 1 second and shut it. have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, hold it down then crack the bleeder.
Do this about 7 times per wheel since you aren't 100% sure where the fluid is in the line in terms of possible air bubbles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,929 Posts
Bleeding

I can't check at the moment.. but is the master cylinder the same for the disc brakes as it is the drum brakes? Usually the master cylinder is different.

But honestly, the best way to bleed the brakes is to have someone pump the brake pedal for you while you watch the fluid come out of the bleeder valve.
when you bleed the brakes, and crack the screw open don't open it all the way, just a quick quarter turn, count 1 second and shut it. have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, hold it down then crack the bleeder.
Do this about 7 times per wheel since you aren't 100% sure where the fluid is in the line in terms of possible air bubbles.
Might add, must start with the one furtherist from the master cylinder. Thus, right rear, lest rear, right front, left front, in order.

Most important.
Never let the master cylinder go empty.

As for me, I suck the fluid out of the master cylinder before starting and put fresh in there first. Wast of energy to send that old fluid throught the lines.

-chart-
ps added pic of my bleeding assist, for one person bleed or flush. I put the green hose on the screw, open half turn, suck a vacuum on the valve end and close the valve. Then cycle the pedal, then close the screw and add fluid, and re vacuum as needed.

The jar lid has the barbs epoxy in place.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top