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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my synchro and sensor is out of alignment from my head job I did. Not much, engine runs fine most of the time, but it is causing some rough idles sometimes.

I've got my manual here and I'm curious about something.

Here is a shot of the installation procedure from my manual.



I followed that except for one thing. When I originally pulled it out I didn't mark the original position of the sensor, but working from memory I got it back in almost right where it was. Obviously either the sensor or the synchro is out of sync since I'm getting the P1309 code.

So without a mark, am I correct to assume that to correctly align the synchro I find TDC #1, insert my tool, rotate the drive assembly until the tool drops down and sits flush, then insert the whole assembly with the arrow on the tool facing 38 degrees out from the centerline of the engine?

The tool doesn't prevent the drive assembly from rotating inside the tool however, see the following picture.



I've highlighted the area it can rotate freely when the tool is engaged. Is this normal? Do I rotate the drive assembly until the tooth touches any one side of the tool?

Thanks guys, you've been a big help so far.
 

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Looking at the application guide - based on a 99 Taurus - your syncro and tool should look like these - if this is correct, you don't really need the tool as long as you can get the engine to TDC compression. The 38 degree thing is only so you can plug the sensor on (enough play in the wire). If you can get the engine to TDC, drop the syncro in so that the tang lines up with the gap ( line it up better than I have it pictured ). If your sensor doesn't look like the one pictured - then something's amiss.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking at the application guide - based on a 99 Taurus - your syncro and tool should look like these - if this is correct, you don't really need the tool as long as you can get the engine to TDC compression. The 38 degree thing is only so you can plug the sensor on (enough play in the wire). If you can get the engine to TDC, drop the syncro in so that the tang lines up with the gap ( line it up better than I have it pictured ). If your sensor doesn't look like the one pictured - then something's amiss.



That is infact how mine looks. I'll give that a try.
 

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When you bring the motor to tdc, pop the sensor off and if you're close, you can just loosen the hold-down screw and turn the body to line up the tang to the big opening. Then tighten the hold-down and your done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Job completed. Let's see how it runs tomorrow when I get some gas in it, it's on fumes.




It was out by a good bit!
 

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The 38 degree thing is only so you can plug the sensor on (enough play in the wire)
I don't completely agree with that. The cmp tells the injector when to shoot gas into the cylinder. If you were to turn the syncro counterclockwise the injector would squirt gas earlier into the cylinder.

As the piston travels down with both valves closed a vacuum is created inside the cylinder. At the precise time the intake valve opens and the injector sprays the fuel. If everything is in proper sync the optimum amount of air/fuel is introduced to provide the optimum power and fuel economy. If the CMP is turned it affects the injector timing, hence the 36 degree reference for the final placement of the sensor with reference to the center line of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't completely agree with that. The cmp tells the injector when to shoot gas into the cylinder. If you were to turn the syncro counterclockwise the injector would squirt gas earlier into the cylinder.

As the piston travels down with both valves closed a vacuum is created inside the cylinder. At the precise time the intake valve opens and the injector sprays the fuel. If everything is in proper sync the optimum amount of air/fuel is introduced to provide the optimum power and fuel economy. If the CMP is turned it affects the injector timing, hence the 36 degree reference for the final placement of the sensor with reference to the center line of the engine.
Actually no. The drive shaft and the top part where the sensor sits are not one unit. As long as that vein is aligned correctly at TDC the engine doesn't know if the sensor is 38 degrees to the right or 38 degrees to the left.
 

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Prismatic is correct. It is the relationship of the rotating shaft to the housing of the synchronizer (or sensor to be specific) that matters, not the housing to the engine block. On my new unit the gear was not installed in exactly the same relationship to the shaft as my old one so when I finished off, the housing was not in the same position compared to the engine block, close enough to not interfere with the wiring install but off a little.
 

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This should be in the HOW-TO section. I replaced mine last year according to "put it back in the same position/angle," but it rotated as it went in. No way to put it back in the same angle but didn't know what else to do.

NY Taurus Abuser's photos are better than all how-to posts of CMP replacement.

PS: Mine was about 10 degrees off. Thanks NY Taurus Abuser.
 

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hi, you have to 'anti-rotate' so when you drop it back in it will line up.

Before I removed it I took photos so I could drop it back in correctly.
Turns out it can stay in the engine, no need to remove it during head gasket r/r.

regards
 

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Job completed. Let's see how it runs tomorrow when I get some gas in it, it's on fumes.




It was out by a good bit!
How did this turn out?
 
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