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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello.
I'm new here (i had a Mercury Grand Marquis 1995 and was at the Crownvic forum).
I can buy a Ford Taurus SE with the Duratec engine and i have some questions.
There were 2 owners: the first one drived the car from 99-2002 then it received it's first maintenance at 7000 miles.
Then he drived another 3 years (2005). Odo was standing on 14000 miles.
The second owner drived every year till 2010: 4000 miles a year.
Now the car has 34000 miles on the odo.
Should this be a concern? Like break lines etc.
I saw some rust at the underside of the EGR valve.
Car has always been parked outside and i live in a normal climate (netherlands)
Alsoo is it correct that the Duratec engines had no full dual exhaust?
Car looks new inside and the outside need a little work (headlights etc).
I hope you can help me with this.
I don't want to buy a car that gets a lot of problems because of low miles.
 

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There are no true dual exhausts on any Taurus, as the 2 engine manifolds combine into a Y-pipe right after the engine. Some models split back into dual mufflers through a Y-pipe at the rear of the car. Just look the car over good for signs of things you may need to address if you buy it. It appears to have very low miles for it's age, and the Duratec is an exceptionally good motor that runs very well with minimum maintenance.
 

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During the early 99 model year, Ford deleted the dual exhaust on the Taurus duratecs but kept them on the Sables.
This resulted in about a 20 hp loss.

Sounds like you lucked out with a low milage 99 tec!!
 

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Is it a Euro Spec or American spec Taurus? If it's Euro spec, you should have the rear fog light mounted on the bottom of the rear bumper, as well as, side markers in the corners (yellow and clear) in the front bumper), as well side markers on the fender.
 

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99 was a strange year for the tecs. I have an early build 99 with dual exhaust, rear swaybar and od off button on the floor shifter. My late build 99 tec has none of these things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the answers.
I will take a look under the car and carpet if there is any rust.
On one of the pulleys (waterpump?) the paint was almost gone and it was blank. I could see this just standing in front of the car. There was a little hose nearby that had some black stuff around it. Good that be the paint from the pulley?
I can replace the rusty EGR valve so that shouldn't be a problem.
Some people told me that if the car has run short trips, the engine will suffer because of condensation inside the engine.
Do these cars have heatercore problems (leaking/corrosion?)
Well i will wait for answers and then make my decision.
Thanks for helping me out.
BTW. it is a european version, headlights are not white anymore, so i will buy 2 new headlights.
 

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Cake monster
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Thanks for the answers.
I will take a look under the car and carpet if there is any rust.
On one of the pulleys (waterpump?) the paint was almost gone and it was blank. I could see this just standing in front of the car. There was a little hose nearby that had some black stuff around it. Good that be the paint from the pulley?
I can replace the rusty EGR valve so that shouldn't be a problem.
Some people told me that if the car has run short trips, the engine will suffer because of condensation inside the engine.
Do these cars have heatercore problems (leaking/corrosion?)
Well i will wait for answers and then make my decision.
Thanks for helping me out.
BTW. it is a european version, headlights are not white anymore, so i will buy 2 new headlights.
Sorry for not replying, I didn't even notice. We need a new bumping policy. Unless the pulley's have bad bearings, I wouldn't worry. Short trips do cause engine issues, such as carbon build up, sludging, etc... If the engine runs fine, I wouldn't worry about it. But, around here there's probably 100+ used engines (well, Vulcans) available within a few hundred miles of my house, that's probably not the case for you.

They do have heater core problems, much less so with the Duratec engine if I recall correctly, but it still happens. They usually plug up, leaking isn't as common. There's several other people on here that have an overseas Taurus, there's a guy from Australia I can remember right off the top of my head.
 

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I got my 1999 Taurus with Duratec in 2005 from the first owner, some older lady. It had around 36,000 miles on the odometer. The tires and the battery had to be replaced immediately. Right now it's at 67,000 miles. After 55,000 miles a whole bunch of issues with suspension started to happen. First was the steering gear, then endlinks, then ball joints, and then front struts. I am hearing of indications that rear struts and front control arms need to be replaced. The way things cost in America, the cost to fix these issues should be around $3000, add or subtract a few hundred, unless you're a mechanic. The transmission is weak and has to be maintained religiously or it will break and result in a nice four figure rebuild bill. The factory audio system is antiquated and will cost between $200 and $1000 to bring into a neat shape, depending on how demanding you are. I don't know about used car economics in other countries, but for an American, I'd say don't bother with this car unless you can get it for around $3000-$4000. If it is in near perfect shape, hopefully you can drive it for at least 30,000 miles trouble free and then sell it or ship it to a junkyard at the first sign of serious problems with suspension, steering or transmission. The car is a gas hog and it's kind of scary to drive a car that gets 16-17mpg within San Antonio city limits at the time when gas prices are well north of $3 per gallon (since, ya know, in San Antonio, you drive at least 3 miles to just to buy a cup of coffee). Who knows what gas prices will be one year from now or even during this summer. A newer heavier car with 500cc bigger engine, 50% more horsepower, and 50% more gears gets better millage. (Granted, my Taurus gets 25-27 miles per gallon cruising on a highway, which is ok)

It doesn't matter where the car has been stored, as long as it was washed frequently. Mine was always stored outside and the paint still looks nice (3 years in Midwest, the rest in the Southwest USA). By the way, my 1999 Taurus SE with Duratec has to be one of the extremely few 99 SEs with dual exhaust. It's a 99SE, but it was built in late 1998. I guess they had some leftover parts at that point that were installed in 1999 model year cars.
 

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99 was a strange year for the tecs. I have an early build 99 with dual exhaust, rear swaybar and od off button on the floor shifter. My late build 99 tec has none of these things.
I guess I got lucky too. I love the od-off button.
 

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Cake monster
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I got my 1999 Taurus with Duratec in 2005 from the first owner, some older lady. It had around 36,000 miles on the odometer. The tires and the battery had to be replaced immediately. Right now it's at 67,000 miles. After 55,000 miles a whole bunch of issues with suspension started to happen. First was the steering gear, then endlinks, then ball joints, and then front struts. I am hearing of indications that rear struts and front control arms need to be replaced. The way things cost in America, the cost to fix these issues should be around $3000, add or subtract a few hundred, unless you're a mechanic. The transmission is weak and has to be maintained religiously or it will break and result in a nice four figure rebuild bill. The factory audio system is antiquated and will cost between $200 and $1000 to bring into a neat shape, depending on how demanding you are. I don't know about used car economics in other countries, but for an American, I'd say don't bother with this car unless you can get it for around $3000-$4000. If it is in near perfect shape, hopefully you can drive it for at least 30,000 miles trouble free and then sell it or ship it to a junkyard at the first sign of serious problems with suspension, steering or transmission. The car is a gas hog and it's kind of scary to drive a car that gets 16-17mpg within San Antonio city limits at the time when gas prices are well north of $3 per gallon (since, ya know, in San Antonio, you drive at least 3 miles to just to buy a cup of coffee). Who knows what gas prices will be one year from now or even during this summer. A newer heavier car with 500cc bigger engine, 50% more horsepower, and 50% more gears gets better millage. (Granted, my Taurus gets 25-27 miles per gallon cruising on a highway, which is ok)

It doesn't matter where the car has been stored, as long as it was washed frequently. Mine was always stored outside and the paint still looks nice (3 years in Midwest, the rest in the Southwest USA). By the way, my 1999 Taurus SE with Duratec has to be one of the extremely few 99 SEs with dual exhaust. It's a 99SE, but it was built in late 1998. I guess they had some leftover parts at that point that were installed in 1999 model year cars.
I just recently had a working motorcraft battery from 02, and my Windstar currently has a motormaster (canadian tire) battery from nov 03. I guess there's a lot of factors in battery life. My Windstar has had most of what you mentioned and it has 80,000 miles currently, with the exception of struts. You don't need to be a mechanic to work on a suspension. Most people don't care about their audio system. Getting rid of a car or sending it to the junk yard over a worn suspension is stupid in my opinion, if the rest of the car is in good condition. But that's just me. A transmission maybe, but just over suspension and steering? No.

Why would the control arms need to be replaced? Are they physically damaged or something? Most cars should have their struts replaced before 100k, which is what I will be doing, even if they don't feel completely worn. It'll need a 3rd set of tires soon, too.

Just because you're not paying for random repairs doesn't mean you're further ahead with a new car, either. You still have a monthly payment and in many cases it's still cheaper to maintain an older car than buying a new one outright. Just curious, has your transmission actually given you trouble?
 

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Most people don't care about their audio system. Getting rid of a car or sending it to the junk yard over a worn suspension is stupid in my opinion, if the rest of the car is in good condition. But that's just me. A transmission maybe, but just over suspension and steering? No.

Why would the control arms need to be replaced? Are they physically damaged or something? Most cars should have their struts replaced before 100k, which is what I will be doing, even if they don't feel completely worn. It'll need a 3rd set of tires soon, too.

Just because you're not paying for random repairs doesn't mean you're further ahead with a new car, either. You still have a monthly payment and in many cases it's still cheaper to maintain an older car than buying a new one outright. Just curious, has your transmission actually given you trouble?

I agree with what you say, almost. The cost of all repairs for things that I mentioned plus new tires is around or just over $3000. I have shopped around and asked for quotes and this is approximately what it costs to get all the worn suspension and steering problems to fix. I also have put about $900-1000 to replace the whole audio system with new, mostly "budget" audio gear, and to me it worth every penny (bluetooth/usb head unit, amplifier, component speakers, sub, sound proofing, etc). If my expenses ended here, that would be a great deal. This car should be ok to drive for about 50,000 with no major issues, which is good for about 3 years for me, unless transmission blows up. This is hands down better than making monthly payments in the range of $200-$500 depending on what you get. However, I feel like owning this car is still kind of dicey. What if transmission blows up? My transmission works ok (by the standards of 4-speed transmission) but they're known to fail frequently anywhere between 80 and +100K miles. If it fails, the cost of owning this car goes up by 50-100 per month (if I keep it for 3 years). What if the cost of gas goes up? I used to put $40 worth of gas into my car every week when gas cost less than $3/gal. I suspect it's going to be more than that now. A newer car could shave half of that cost. If gas prices go up, suddenly owning a newer car effectively costs $80 per month less.
 

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Cake monster
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I agree with what you say, almost. The cost of all repairs for things that I mentioned plus new tires is around or just over $3000. I have shopped around and asked for quotes and this is approximately what it costs to get all the worn suspension and steering problems to fix. I also have put about $900-1000 to replace the whole audio system with new, mostly "budget" audio gear, and to me it worth every penny (bluetooth/usb head unit, amplifier, component speakers, sub, sound proofing, etc). If my expenses ended here, that would be a great deal. This car should be ok to drive for about 50,000 with no major issues, which is good for about 3 years for me, unless transmission blows up. This is hands down better than making monthly payments in the range of $200-$500 depending on what you get. However, I feel like owning this car is still kind of dicey. What if transmission blows up? My transmission works ok (by the standards of 4-speed transmission) but they're known to fail frequently anywhere between 80 and +100K miles. If it fails, the cost of owning this car goes up by 50-100 per month (if I keep it for 3 years). What if the cost of gas goes up? I used to put $40 worth of gas into my car every week when gas cost less than $3/gal. I suspect it's going to be more than that now. A newer car could shave half of that cost. If gas prices go up, suddenly owning a newer car effectively costs $80 per month less.
Don't get me wrong about the repairs, I mean mine were within that range, too. Heck, I spent what I paid for the entire van the first time I had it in the garage. If your transmission does die, you could consider a wrecker transmission as you don't plan on keeping it forever.

If you put good parts on the suspension, they should last longer than the cheap OE ones without greasetits. Keep the transmission flushed and it'll probably last longer, obviously you know that. The cooling system for the transmission doesn't appear to have enough capacity to do the job right, if you improve upon it by installing a bigger cooler that will also extend the life of the transmission, I believe. If you wanted to push the car up to 250,000 miles, you'll need a transmission rebuild, cooling system overhaul, likely another suspension overhaul, tires, and a few grand worth of other expenses, that's just a guess, but it should give you a good idea of what these cars need to keep going. That might sound like quite a bit of expense, but it's still far cheaper than buying a new car every 60k to 100k. If you keep fixing them, they keep going. That's why you see vehicles with 450,000+ miles out there, because some people don't know when to stop. Not saying that's what everyone should do, but I don't like getting rid of a car with less than 250,000 miles, unless it's rusted or has many issues.

As for the MPGs, the car isn't the greatest but with a tune up you should see a little improvement.

And if you're wondering, it does appear that newer Ford cars are going a lot farther without needing suspension or transmission work, as well as their trucks.

Cheers!
 

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but if you buy a newer car and it has a warrantythen all u have to do is take it to the dealer and not spend all this money here or there now the part that would suck is if ur making payments on a car with no warranty and u have repairs but when does it end with the repairs on these cars do you get a long enough of a grace period where it makes up the differance instead of making a monthly payment
 
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