Some notes:
1. Use hacksaw to cut old one in half for easier removal.
2. Replace with flex hose from AAP.
3. Bangerang.
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Thank you WagonFreak!!!
I have about 140K miles on my 2000 Duratec Sable. I really wasn't sure where the leak was, but after I took off the belt, the pump turned rough and squeaked. I also noticed a 'ballooning' of this evil hose connected to the pump.
I removed the entire lower coolant hose intact since the metal pipe, while corroded, looked like it might still be good. What I did different, was remove the electric fan (on passenger side). It's only one small screw at the top that holds it in place... plus you need to remove the connector and two wire harness snaps to the right side of the fan, facing from the front. It pulls up with difficulty, but it can be worked out without removing anything else by taking some time.
I also removed the water pump (and refurbished it with new parts). The only thing that I did different from what others have mentioned removing the pump in other threads was to move the power steering reservoir (disconnected the big hose from the power steering pump, and drained it from there). This allowed me more room and to move the reservoir out of the way as needed. It also allowed me to remove the belt tensioner easier. I didn't remove the pulley, but the whole tensioner since I have the right
Torx T50 tool and it was easier.
After doing all that and what others have outlined in this thread, I was able to snake this evil coolant hose out through the top front. Removing the fan makes a world of difference since it also allows easier access to the clamp on the thermostat housing, as well.
After getting it all out, I examined it. I didn't detect it leaking but I wasn't certain about the rubber fitting to the metal pipe. Of course, no easy way to pressurize it. Sure enough, the rubber going to the pump looked ballooned. I know that it flexed very easily, but it's made a little fat offset so it might have not been that bad. However, when I put my finger inside the rubber I felt, and saw, a significant chunk of rubber loose inside barely hanging on. It was clearly deteriorating.
Faced with the same options of others around here, I found the guy selling what looks like an exact replacement that he is now selling it for $69 on
eBay (
Duratec f6dz 8a567).
I didn't want to wait that long so I decided to go with WagonFreak's solution. The only difference is that he used a
Dayco 81191 and I used a
Gates 25482.
O'Reilly's carries the Gates, and most of the others carry the Dayco. Pep Boys had yet another universal
1-1/2 x 22 Inch hose that they were unable to tell me the brand name. These universal hoses are a real common stock item that you'll probably find in your closest auto parts store. But 22" is the key... not an inch longer or shorter.
I used a stainless steel tie wrap to keep the hose away from the serpentine belt. I have mixed feelings about using the metal since it is thin and may cut into the hose over time, but I told the guy at the parts house what I was going to do with it and that's what he pulled for my daughter to pick up on the way home from work.
I should also point out that installing this hose, assuming you have also pulled the water pump, works best by connecting the hose first to the thermostat housing, then snaking it around to the pump, while the pump is off the vehicle. Then clamp the hose on the pump. Attach the heater hose, and then mount the pump. Having the radiator fan out of the way makes this a much easier task.
The only thing that I might have done different would be to cut off about 1/2 inch of hose on one end. That might have taken up a little more slack where the tie wrap wouldn't be doing as much work holding it out of the way of the serpentine belt. It is difficult to decide if you need to tie the hose back but I would lean toward being safe than sorry. I tied it around the motor mount.
I'm not out of the woods yet, since I only drove it for about 5 miles after dark. I really need to put it to the test tomorrow and be sure nothing is dripping and all is working well. It took a long time for the heater to blow hot air. I hope this was only due to air in the lines. The temperature here is also in the teens at this time.
BTW, total cost was about $85 for all the materials and the water pump kit. I'm guessing about 10% of what the dealer would charge for the whole job.
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OK, it's now about a week later and came up against a little leak right after doing all the above. It was from the thermostat (that I replaced a few days before I performed all of the above). It was because of the rubber O-ring. This was difficult to put (stay) it in place. I didn't use adhesive, but I'd suggest using some to keep it in place. Once I took the thermostat cover off, it was easy to see that the seal was pinched. I repositioned it, tightened the cover and didn't leak a drop. FWIW, the one I used was a red seal. The one that I removed was black and had square edges, not rounded like the red one. I think the square edges would work better.
