Need A New Coolant Hose

43410 Views 109 Replies 51 Participants Last post by The White Falcon, Feb 2, 2014

bigH

Discussion Starter · Jun 25, 2005

Hey everybody. So yesterday I was flushing out my cooling system. Figured I'd throw in a new t-stat and check over all the hoses while i was at it. (98 Duratec) Pulled off the lower rad hose, noticed it'd been rubbing on the frame and was showing reinforcing threads. So I figured i'd pick up a new one, no big deal (maybe put some wire loom stuff around it or something). Then I figured i'd check out the hose that goes from the t-stat housing up to the water pump. stuck my hand up in there, and realized it's metal. i thought that was kinda goofy for a water pump, but whatever. so i started fondling it a bit to make sure it was allright, and big chunks of crap fell in my face. and sure enough, the pipe just disintegrated in my hands. which is kind of a pain, yeah, but at least I caught it now and not a week from now when i plan on heading down the mass pike on vacation.

so i'll just pick up a couple new hoses right? i wish. autozone, advance, and carquest don't carry replacements. went to the dearlership. 'bout $30 for the lower hose. $160 some for the "inlet hose". say what? for a hose? fordpartsnetwork has it for $140something which is less bad, but still not what i would classify as 'reasonable,' rockauto doesn't seem to have it at all.

so finally getting to the point of all this rambling ... anyone else had to replace this monster, and if so, anyone know how i can avoid getting raped?

See less See more

81 - 100 of 110 Posts

sleepdog

· #81 · Jun 20, 2010

Update

She's all buttoned up now, put in the 1.5" x 22" with three zip ties around the frame isolator or something, at least an inch of clearance from the serpentine belt. New AC compressor and suction/accumulator line, blowing cold air again! After all that my lower rad hose/tube was very rusty on the outside but was structurally sound with no rust on the inside. I tested it by stomping on it pretty good to see how easy it would break, but it wouldn't. Oh well! Potential tragedy averted.

Gotta say that tip about doing the serp belt with the rag under it and up over the power steering pulley was spot on!!! The old one came right off and the new one (not stretched!) went right on. So much easier than leveraging the tensioner!

Matt

ghettosled

· #82 · Jun 21, 2010

sleepdog said:
Gotta say that tip about doing the serp belt with the rag under it and up over the power steering pulley was spot on!!! The old one came right off and the new one (not stretched!) went right on. So much easier than leveraging the tensioner!

Matt

1. yay, unbolting the front engine mount and jacking the motor made the job of changing the metal lower coolant hose almost too easy. many thanks again.

2. i was also going to change out the serpentine belt which i can usually do with a socket wrench and a crow's foot socket, but there isnt enough room on the taurus.

sleepdog - what is this about using rags to change the belt??? :huh:

asdasc

· #83 · Nov 14, 2010

Lower hose issue

I am in the middle of the job, and it is a bear. Rain caused me to stop. I bought the $99 one off eBay. it looks really nice. I didn't see this post about the motor mounts until just now, and wish I had tried it.

I used the dremel to cut off the old clamps, and that worked well. I couldn't get the old one out, and finally just cut it apart. That really helped. I also went and got the 1.5"x22" flex tube and the screw clamps. That worked really well.

One trick I read on here for the serpentine belt is to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor in the tensioner. It fits nice and easily in the tight space with enough reach to get into the 3/8" square hole in the tensioner arm. I was able to easily do the serpenitine on and off by myself. I also found the advice on removing the inner fender sheild (3 screws, 3 plastic push pins) priceless.

The only problem I am having is finding a good way to tie up the flex hose so it doesn't interfere with the serpentine belt in the future, but I will take another look at it in the morning.

Thanks all for your help! If anyone wants the other part I bought, it will be up on eBay again soon. That guy would do well to create some instructions to go with it.

See less See more

SoNic67

· #84 · Mar 18, 2011

Looks like I will join the club of owners of a broken... pipe.
Yestarday I had overheating engine, cooloant loss and I couldn't see from where. Getting dark, I drove the Sable home with the temp gauge at the "top". The stupid Haynes manual didn't show even where the T-stat is so I was looking online for it. This is how I got here and l think that I have a ruptured pipe like the one in this thread. I was having some "smoke" issues in the waterpump/ A/C clutch area for a while but I just failed to investigate till now.
I guess I see what exactly is in this weekend.

cerebralassassin1977

· #85 · Jul 10, 2011

Ford used metal because it runs so close to the belt. You can buy a 20" hose and zip tie it around the motor mount to keep it from rubbing. Obviously they couldn't do that with a new car as it wouldn't be good for the reputation but as long as it's on tight. The hose that you can use is a universal flexible type that has the re-enforced metal coil inside of it. I think it was about 20" long by 1 1/4" diameter made by Michelin sold at Canadian tire for about $10 maybe a bit less. To attach the front part of the hose I think you just need to remove the fan that's in the way will give you enough room to work but will still be tight, just a pain really. Hose clamps are the best and try to do the front first and then the side from under the wheel well.

sheila

· #86 · Jul 10, 2011

22" x 1.5" diameter flex hose.

Bzimbug

· #87 · Jul 18, 2011 (Edited)

As far as I can tell, this seems to be a problem for Gen 3 Bulls. I'm guessing that Ford made a change to the Gen 4 Duratec, cause there is NO sign of this hose on my 04 ride. Does anybody know for sure?

bull geek

· #88 · Jul 18, 2011

96-00 suffer from the problem, 01+s have a different design since the water pump moved over next to the battery.

Bzimbug

· #89 · Jul 21, 2011

Thanks BG!!

sillyburt

· #90 · Aug 7, 2011

just changed out the same hose earlier today. if I had to do it again I'd consider the flex hose both for the price and what a pain to get this hose out and the new one in, but more for price.

I also cut the old one to get it out. I removed the T coolant pipe adn L shaped radiator bracket to be able to get the new hose in. I was surprised at how much metal I still had left after cutting the old one. all in all it took about 3 hours but I'd plan on it taking longer. I noticed this corroded coolant pipe when I was changing my belt out @ 105K miles so I knew how to get into the area quick.

Monsoon

· #91 · Aug 7, 2011

Great thread with good thoughts

OK gang:
I have the opposite problem you have with this hose (Ford# f6dz8a567a), those of you living in the rust belt. I checked this hose/pipe a few minutes ago. The rubber ends or hose are feeling thin but the pipe itself looks great. This hose has been on there for so long rubber is aging and needs to be replaced.

Any ideas here? Should I go out and buy straight piece of hose? Or spend the bucks and buy the original OEM replacement? If I buy the straight hose of 1.5" would hose clamps be good enough with the metal tubing?

BTW thanks for a good thread. I enjoyed reading all of it.

Monsoon

chartmaker

· #92 · Aug 7, 2011

Hose

Monsoon said:
OK gang:
I have the opposite problem you have with this hose (Ford# f6dz8a567a), those of you living in the rust belt. I checked this hose/pipe a few minutes ago. The rubber ends or hose are feeling thin but the pipe itself looks great. This hose has been on there for so long rubber is aging and needs to be replaced.

Any ideas here? Should I go out and buy straight piece of hose? Or spend the bucks and buy the original OEM replacement? If I buy the straight hose of 1.5" would hose clamps be good enough with the metal tubing?

BTW thanks for a good thread. I enjoyed reading all of it.

Monsoon

You can buy the hoses separate. Aftermarket. When I needed the metal one for a '98, I went to NAPA and they had the rubber but they said no one atermarket had the metal pipe. The rubber hoses are not too bad but the metal pipe is a pain. This was several years ago.

I bought the Ford assy for about $195 special order and it came with the clamps in place. (factory assy) I use a paint market to mark the hose/pipe rotation. I took it apart, put worm drive clamps on the mid of the hoses, and threaded the pipe like a "nail puzzle" in place, then put the hoses on in the engine bay.

This pipe was rusted through and leaking.

So, I wish I had thought of, or heard of using a flex hose. I did this for my daughter's car and she sold it.

Not a pleasant experience.

-chart-

See less See more

Monsoon

· #93 · Aug 8, 2011

OK, I ordered this hose assembly from Tasca Auto Group (Rhode Island). Tony is the man to talk to about this hose. Apparently there are plenty of these hoses in stock on the east coast but nothing where I live (CO). The hose isn't cheap but hey I got 198K miles on the original one !

Tasca Auto Group
Tel: 401 681-1300

Monsoon

sheila

· #94 · Aug 8, 2011

^ For about $15, a couple of clamps and zip-ties, youll get that mileage out of a 22" x 1.5" diameter inner spring-reinforced flex hose. To facilitate removal, saw your old metal pipe in half prior.

LittleFeat

· #95 · Oct 6, 2011

God Bless the TCCA! I found a leak the other day and came here to find out how to fix it. This flex hose solution saved me at least $80.00 DIY and over $300.00 if I'd taken it to a dealer to fix. I got the 22" hose at Oreily's Auto Parts and followed the instructions on this thread for installation. 100+ miles later and all is well. I did find the dealer part on ebay for $99.00 if anyone wants to go that route. 00-05 Mercury Sable Coolant Hose Duratec f6dz 8a567 | eBay

Thank you so much
!

arty:

chartmaker

· #96 · Oct 6, 2011

LittleFeat said:
God Bless the TCCA! I found a leak the other day and came here to find out how to fix it. This flex hose solution saved me at least $80.00 DIY and over $300.00 if I'd taken it to a dealer to fix. I got the 22" hose at Oreily's Auto Parts and followed the instructions on this thread for installation. 100+ miles later and all is well. I did find the dealer part on ebay for $99.00 if anyone wants to go that route. 00-05 Mercury Sable Coolant Hose Duratec f6dz 8a567 | eBay

Thank you so much
!arty:

Yea but: that hose was not used on '01 and later.
So that ad was just wrong.

-chart-

eric m

· #97 · Oct 6, 2011

If your metal pipe is good. Cut the factory crimps, and replace with after market rubber and hose clamps. All replacement rubber sections that I have need were available if you could figure out witch part fit your application.

eric m

· #98 · Oct 6, 2011

The after market rubber that I have used was high quality and perfectly bent.

chartmaker

· #99 · Oct 6, 2011

eric m said:
If your metal pipe is good. Cut the factory crimps, and replace with after market rubber and hose clamps. All replacement rubber sections that I have need were available if you could figure out witch part fit your application.

Problem is, these metal pipes are paper thin, and the front wheel throws water and salt right up there making it rust from the outside. The paint on the outside is basically to keep it from rusting while in invetory. On a '98 I saw it rusting badly and thought I could wash it off and rustproof it. Too late, already pinholes. The rubber parts were fine. But you had to buy it all. Back a few years and the only source was FORD. $193 and special order.

Wish I knew about the idea of flex hose then.

-chart-

sheila

· #100 · Oct 6, 2011

^+1 with Chart. 01 must have been the year ford moved the h2o pump over to the drivers side on the tec.

81 - 100 of 110 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.