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Need A New Coolant Hose

43559 Views 109 Replies 51 Participants Last post by  The White Falcon
Hey everybody. So yesterday I was flushing out my cooling system. Figured I'd throw in a new t-stat and check over all the hoses while i was at it. (98 Duratec) Pulled off the lower rad hose, noticed it'd been rubbing on the frame and was showing reinforcing threads. So I figured i'd pick up a new one, no big deal (maybe put some wire loom stuff around it or something). Then I figured i'd check out the hose that goes from the t-stat housing up to the water pump. stuck my hand up in there, and realized it's metal. i thought that was kinda goofy for a water pump, but whatever. so i started fondling it a bit to make sure it was allright, and big chunks of crap fell in my face. and sure enough, the pipe just disintegrated in my hands. which is kind of a pain, yeah, but at least I caught it now and not a week from now when i plan on heading down the mass pike on vacation.

so i'll just pick up a couple new hoses right? i wish. autozone, advance, and carquest don't carry replacements. went to the dearlership. 'bout $30 for the lower hose. $160 some for the "inlet hose". say what? for a hose? fordpartsnetwork has it for $140something which is less bad, but still not what i would classify as 'reasonable,' rockauto doesn't seem to have it at all.

so finally getting to the point of all this rambling ... anyone else had to replace this monster, and if so, anyone know how i can avoid getting raped?


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2000s were the last DOHCs to have the WP on the serp belt side of the engine. 01s were the first year to have it on the other side (much better design!!!).
I'm faced with this today... I have a 2000 DOHC Sable.

Although your post is years old, I can't help but respond. Divorce is still coming back to haunt me. I had a 2000 Sable and my wife had a 2001 Sable. When we got a divorce, it was a tossup who would keep which car. The 2001 had more miles but was newer. I decided to keep the 2000 since it was white and the other one was green. She sold hers about three months after the divorce. I will be thinking about this all while I'm fighting this thing. LOL!
Some notes:
1. Use hacksaw to cut old one in half for easier removal.
2. Replace with flex hose from AAP.
3. Bangerang.
Thank you WagonFreak!!!

I have about 140K miles on my 2000 Duratec Sable. I really wasn't sure where the leak was, but after I took off the belt, the pump turned rough and squeaked. I also noticed a 'ballooning' of this evil hose connected to the pump.

I removed the entire lower coolant hose intact since the metal pipe, while corroded, looked like it might still be good. What I did different, was remove the electric fan (on passenger side). It's only one small screw at the top that holds it in place... plus you need to remove the connector and two wire harness snaps to the right side of the fan, facing from the front. It pulls up with difficulty, but it can be worked out without removing anything else by taking some time.

I also removed the water pump (and refurbished it with new parts). The only thing that I did different from what others have mentioned removing the pump in other threads was to move the power steering reservoir (disconnected the big hose from the power steering pump, and drained it from there). This allowed me more room and to move the reservoir out of the way as needed. It also allowed me to remove the belt tensioner easier. I didn't remove the pulley, but the whole tensioner since I have the right Torx T50 tool and it was easier.

After doing all that and what others have outlined in this thread, I was able to snake this evil coolant hose out through the top front. Removing the fan makes a world of difference since it also allows easier access to the clamp on the thermostat housing, as well.

After getting it all out, I examined it. I didn't detect it leaking but I wasn't certain about the rubber fitting to the metal pipe. Of course, no easy way to pressurize it. Sure enough, the rubber going to the pump looked ballooned. I know that it flexed very easily, but it's made a little fat offset so it might have not been that bad. However, when I put my finger inside the rubber I felt, and saw, a significant chunk of rubber loose inside barely hanging on. It was clearly deteriorating.

Faced with the same options of others around here, I found the guy selling what looks like an exact replacement that he is now selling it for $69 on eBay (Duratec f6dz 8a567).

I didn't want to wait that long so I decided to go with WagonFreak's solution. The only difference is that he used a Dayco 81191 and I used a Gates 25482.

O'Reilly's carries the Gates, and most of the others carry the Dayco. Pep Boys had yet another universal 1-1/2 x 22 Inch hose that they were unable to tell me the brand name. These universal hoses are a real common stock item that you'll probably find in your closest auto parts store. But 22" is the key... not an inch longer or shorter.

I used a stainless steel tie wrap to keep the hose away from the serpentine belt. I have mixed feelings about using the metal since it is thin and may cut into the hose over time, but I told the guy at the parts house what I was going to do with it and that's what he pulled for my daughter to pick up on the way home from work.

I should also point out that installing this hose, assuming you have also pulled the water pump, works best by connecting the hose first to the thermostat housing, then snaking it around to the pump, while the pump is off the vehicle. Then clamp the hose on the pump. Attach the heater hose, and then mount the pump. Having the radiator fan out of the way makes this a much easier task.

The only thing that I might have done different would be to cut off about 1/2 inch of hose on one end. That might have taken up a little more slack where the tie wrap wouldn't be doing as much work holding it out of the way of the serpentine belt. It is difficult to decide if you need to tie the hose back but I would lean toward being safe than sorry. I tied it around the motor mount.

I'm not out of the woods yet, since I only drove it for about 5 miles after dark. I really need to put it to the test tomorrow and be sure nothing is dripping and all is working well. It took a long time for the heater to blow hot air. I hope this was only due to air in the lines. The temperature here is also in the teens at this time.

BTW, total cost was about $85 for all the materials and the water pump kit. I'm guessing about 10% of what the dealer would charge for the whole job.

OK, it's now about a week later and came up against a little leak right after doing all the above. It was from the thermostat (that I replaced a few days before I performed all of the above). It was because of the rubber O-ring. This was difficult to put (stay) it in place. I didn't use adhesive, but I'd suggest using some to keep it in place. Once I took the thermostat cover off, it was easy to see that the seal was pinched. I repositioned it, tightened the cover and didn't leak a drop. FWIW, the one I used was a red seal. The one that I removed was black and had square edges, not rounded like the red one. I think the square edges would work better.
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The '00 is a one year only water pump location and hose. Not like the '96-'99. The pump is offset to the front of the vehicle. Check it out to be sure. Others might chip in here. I saw one at the JY and thought it was strange. COP one year only also.
Interesting enough, in the past 12 months, I had two COP go bad and this water pump and hose. So it seems they must have learned early with this new design that it wasn't the best.

I'm also a little irritated at the location of the oil filter. It's difficult to remove and I can never replace it without the oil dripping on the crossmember that in turn causes an oil drip on the drive for the next couple of days.
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