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I plan on making a couple more mods to my engine (ported manifolds, maybe headwork, chip, maybe cam) and after those, I was interested in putting in a nitrous wet kit. I really dont want to shoot a dry shot b/c the engine would get toasted really quick. Anybody here running a wet kit? Where would i shoot it at? before or after the MAF? i was advised to shoot it b4 the MAF so that it would put more fuel in cuz the nos is cold, but wouldnt shooting a wet kit b4 the maf cause some problems with the maf. I dont think shooting n2o+gas onto a maf is a good thing, but i could be wrong. Suggestions and comments appreciated. Oh yeah, its gonna be a 50 shot, no bigger.

2000 Taurus, vulcan ffv.
 

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IMHO - I would not go with a wet kit, from what I hear/read there are a couple more problems with the wet shot than the dry.

Dry seems to be the safest way to go if you truly want to do N20 injection. From what I have seen its also cheaper by ~ $200 to get the dry.

If im wrong, please correct me
 

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Why would a dry kit be any more harmful than a wet kit? They both have their pros & cons. You wont have to worry about running lean with the wet kit because the fuel is pre-mixed with the nitrous, unlike the dry system that just raises fuel pressure and lets the computer figure out how much extra fuel is needed. However, your intake plenum is not designed to flow liquids, and fuel puddling can cause an intake backfire and blow your intake to pieces. This is pretty uncommon as long as you dont ever spray below 3k rpm and are only at WOT. There is switches you can install to prevent this from happening, but even with all the safeguards it is possible. Since you have a FFV you should have sufficient fuel for a 50 shot of dry, assuming you check the plugs often and have a safe tune. ZEX makes a system that is supposedly pretty safe and easy to setup, and a couple people on here have used it with good results.
 

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mmmmmm direct port

::drool::
 

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most No2 systems have a switch that connects to the TB that will only allow the No2 to be released at WOT. I wouldn't recommend a dry system for a vulcan, but for a FFV I think it would be okay.
 

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Check this page out, it's a Nitrous Oxide FAQ: http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm

There's a lot of incorrect information being posted here so hopefully this will answer all your questions.
 

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You want wet you have to go direct port. There is nothing wrong with running a dry n2o kit on a vulcan. I ran through at least 5-6 bottles of n2o this summer with the only ill effect being a burnt plug which I think came from a bad injector not a nitrous problem.
 

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Yeah, the 24# injectors of the FFV will give you plenty of fuel for a 50 shot. I've even considered it. As for pre MAF or post MAF flow, I have no idea. Logic would say pre-MAF so that it can see the increased airflow before it hits the engine and giving the MAF enough time to react and increase fuel flow just before the n20 gets to the engine.

-mobiuslogic
 

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A wet kit is a bad idea on any Taurus with a runner intake. The runner intakes are not designed to flow liquid fuel and it puddles resulting in the explosion of the intake or at the very least, one big a** back fire.

It's best to go with a dry kit or a direct port. A dry kit with an FMU would be good for a stock vulcan.
 

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So the wet kit is the one that goes into the intake tube and the dry is the one that useually replaces the fuel injector with one of theirs so it can hold the fuel line and the N2O line?? The puddling effect does sound pretty bad for a wet kit with our type of UIM but, is still bad if (what jtkz13 said) it is only used at WOT and the intake has been P&P??
 

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Originally posted by D Man@Jan 30 2004, 10:09 AM
So the wet kit is the one that goes into the intake tube and the dry is the one that useually replaces the fuel injector with one of theirs so it can hold the fuel line and the N2O line?? The puddling effect does sound pretty bad for a wet kit with our type of UIM but, is still bad if (what jtkz13 said) it is only used at WOT and the intake has been P&P??
A wet kit is simply a kit that adds fuel and nitrous.

A dry kit only adds nitrous.

A direct port kis is a special wet kit.

Wet kit: Nitrous and Fuel lines are run and both are shot into the intake manifold. The problem with this is that fuel can puddle in the intake manifold and with a backfire it will plain blow up. This is bad. Bull go BOOM!

Dry Kit: Only nitrous is sprayed into the intake and the computer is tricked into upping hte fuel. This type of kit is fine but you want to make sure you can give the car the fuel (pump, injectors, etc..) so that it doesn't lean out and you go BOOM!

Direct Port: Expensive, but the best. In a V6's case you will need to drill and tap 6 holes in the intake manifold. Each hole has a nozzle that sprays fuel and nitrous at the same time. This is jsut like a wet kit but it is made to spray into each chamber individually. This prevents puddling and keeps you from going lean. This is the way to go. Hopefully NO BOOM!

There is much much more to go into. I had a zex 55 shot on my bull, i leaned out because of my own stupidity. If i did it again i'd get the zex dry kit, injectors, a fuel pump, and maybe a megasquirt.
 

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WTF?? A wet kit injects the fuel and nitrous through a specially designed nozzle. It comes out as an atomized mixture that looks like fog. If you get a wet kit from a reputable manufacturer(NX is a great choice) then puddling will not be an issue. I decided to get an NX wet kit for my Vulcan Probe because I had heard nothing but praise about them. A wet kit does not require fuel system upgrades to be safe, unlike dry systems. You also do NOT need to have a direct port setup in order to use a wet kit.
 

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Originally posted by pin@Jan 31 2004, 03:10 AM
WTF?? A wet kit injects the fuel and nitrous through a specially designed nozzle. It comes out as an atomized mixture that looks like fog. If you get a wet kit from a reputable manufacturer(NX is a great choice) then puddling will not be an issue. I decided to get an NX wet kit for my Vulcan Probe because I had heard nothing but praise about them. A wet kit does not require fuel system upgrades to be safe, unlike dry systems. You also do NOT need to have a direct port setup in order to use a wet kit.
It doesn't matter who makes the wet kit. The problem lies that the fuel comes out of suspension and puddles in the intake. The early innovators of the performance SHO world blew up a few motors with wet kits because of this. I suggest you do some more research on the subject.
 

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Originally posted by pin@Jan 31 2004, 03:10 AM
WTF?? A wet kit injects the fuel and nitrous through a specially designed nozzle. It comes out as an atomized mixture that looks like fog. If you get a wet kit from a reputable manufacturer(NX is a great choice) then puddling will not be an issue. I decided to get an NX wet kit for my Vulcan Probe because I had heard nothing but praise about them. A wet kit does not require fuel system upgrades to be safe, unlike dry systems. You also do NOT need to have a direct port setup in order to use a wet kit.
Go and find the biggest, most expensive, beautiful wet kit you can, spray, and i'm going to laugh when you blow up your intake manifold. Here's a better test for you, go get yourself a fog machine and set it inside of a box and let it run, see if it stays super dry in the box. Now a vulcan's runners are different then a SHO's, a vulcan can handle a wet kit better, but it's still not a great design. Using nitrous on your engine will damage it, and eventually you will end up with a backfire and a boom, live and learn.
 

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Originally posted by FatTortoise@Feb 1 2004, 09:54 PM
You know getting a new CamShaft can cause a rough idle (not reccommended for a daily driver car)
That depends on the camshaft really, if you get one with a lot of lift then yes, if you get a mild one you'll hardly notice it. You have to remember that the motor mounts take up a lot of the movement in the engine. If you do get a cam made make sure it is one made for n2o, you don't want overlapping valve timing like in a NA setup.
 

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Originally posted by taurus8916@Feb 1 2004, 09:48 PM
but if u use it in the right amount, and repectively it donesnt hurt that much right???
Which a wet kit?

What's the point in going to a wet kit if you're not going big? The whole point of a wet kit is so that you can go big. Big as in bigger than the fuel pump and/or injectors can handle. Besides, can any of these cars really handle a big shot? The SHO engines can but the trannys can't. I can't speak about the non-SHO engines but I doubt they'd be any better off than the SHO engines.

I really don't think it matters what size wet kit you go with. The chances for pudding are still there.
 

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Originally posted by 1fast97+Feb 2 2004, 09:24 PM-->QUOTE (1fast97 @ Feb 2 2004, 09:24 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-taurus8916
@Feb 1 2004, 09:48 PM
but if u use it in the right amount, and repectively it donesnt hurt that much right???
Which a wet kit?

What's the point in going to a wet kit if you're not going big? The whole point of a wet kit is so that you can go big. Big as in bigger than the fuel pump and/or injectors can handle. Besides, can any of these cars really handle a big shot? The SHO engines can but the trannys can't. I can't speak about the non-SHO engines but I doubt they'd be any better off than the SHO engines.

I really don't think it matters what size wet kit you go with. The chances for pudding are still there. [/b]
Go get a direct port. No puddling.
 
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