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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My battery is mysteriously draining. Drawing 1.3 to 1.5 amps of power while the key is out. Yes, I've done the test where you pull out every single fuse and watch for the power to drop. When the GEM/PATS/whateverthe****it'scalled fuse is out, it drops about half, and another 300 mAmps with the Battery Saver fuse pulled, but I can't account for all of the power. When the power-distributer-box fuse that routes to the cabin fusebox was pulled, power shot down to 5 mAmps, so I know the bad circuit is one that does go through the cabin fuse box.

Also, a few relays were letting power through when the key was off, so I replaced those.

I've also sprayed the door-closed-sensor-switch things with WD40 as I've read on several other places to do. Didn't solve anything, but did cost me a can of WD40. It was about half full; is now empty.

I should add that it's a month old battery.

What circuits are usually suspect in this car? What else should I check, and what else can I do?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: It's the tape cassette motor. It keeps running, trying to eject/insert/play/something, even with no tape in the deck. It's weird, because no tapes have been inserted in years, but the problem started only about a month ago, after replacing the battery. Any ideas on making it stop?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Radio works fine, Tape Deck has always eaten tapes and has never worked, even with the Casset/Auxiliary adapter. Mechanically, it doesn't work. It hasn't worked even when the battery was acting normally.

Anti-Lock-Brakes? The car doesn't have them. Anti-Theft light flashes when the car is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, I turned the car on. Lo and behold, a weird sound emitting from the tape deck that doesn't work. It's probably that. Do I need to pull the fuse? Unplug something inside the tape deck?
 

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Get another football (ICU) from the J.Y. self serve about 25-30 bucks. Lots of threads showing the removal and installation and you can test the new one right in the J.Y. parking lot!
 

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^+1 with 249hp. Btdt! You need a new "football" (radio/hvac controller). Slide out the old 1 with din keys (Ford radio removal tools (~$5) and replace with a jy unit. 5min. job. Hope the battery isn't damaged. I would try to source a football from a '98/'99 Taurus/Sable.
 

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^+1 with 249hp. Btdt! You need a new "football" (radio/hvac controller). Slide out the old 1 with din keys (Ford radio removal tools (~$5) and replace with a jy unit. 5min. job. Hope the battery isn't damaged. I would try to source a football from a '98/'99 Taurus/Sable.
Just a word of caution which sheila i think tried to warn:
the connectors on the footballs are different in some years.
In gen 3, 98 is different from a 97/96. Make sure the plugs
have the same number of pins and look the same before you get one.

There is one other solution. Take the pod out, take it apart and unplug
the cassette mech from the rest of the pod. It will probably take some
small torx or such to disassemble it.

or you can just make sure the cassette mech is in fully ejected mech
position and put it back together. My daughter got mine with a cassette
adapter that jammed. Now she just killed the car by hydrolocking it.
 

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well, there is a tool that will help but it will cost a few bucks. There is a meter called a amp hound. It checks for parasitic draws. It does this WITHOUT removing the fuses. It reads the micro voltage across the fuses to determine the load on that circuit. unlike the common methods of removing fuses and possibly waiting for power up power down times that may happen when you do so.
 
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When checking for drains you must make your amp meter connection and wait 20 minutes for all circuits to close every time you connect. I spent 2 afternoons doing it incorrectly. I finally discovered that I do not have a drain. I had a battery that killed my alternator. Replaced them both and my amp drain is is perfect.
 

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I have the exact same problem as stated here. Can't find the power drain. But my Bull has a factory CD player. Any suggestions?
When checking for drains you must make your amp meter connection and wait 20 minutes for all circuits to close every time you connect. I spent 2 afternoons doing it incorrectly. I finally discovered that I do not have a drain. I had a battery that killed my alternator. Replaced them both and my amp drain is is perfect.
 
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