Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sister has a 90 taurus 3.0. Heres a little history...she got it from an auction 3 years ago, 450 bucks, 130k miles. OK, when she first got it...i noticed when it would idle it would vary in rpm a little and in rythem. like vroom, vroom, vroom, about with my pulse of my heart at rest. maybe 300 rpm surges...anyways, it ran perfect while u drove it though, this was only at idle... driving along at constant speed, it would not surge at all. well, she said about 2 weeks ago that it wasnt running right, so i went to drive it and just to keep it running you would have to hold the pedal floored and it would major surge, like from almost die (350 rpms) to like 4000 and back, not like rev limiter or something it would rev up then just die... now it wont even really run...u hit the key and it sputters and dies...even if you pump and hold the gas it dies imediately after starting. I pulled the codes off the computer and they said 21, 22, 24, 41. 21 is Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT. I dont think that would cause it not to run at all though. 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP. Now...my dad is a Heavy Machinery mechanic on like bulldozers and crap and he thinks that the MAP woudld cause it not to run. is this true?? 41 ® System lean - Fuel control (M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control. thats the other code. not real sure how to fix that...24 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT. not sure what that is...I traced all the vacuum lines and the rubber hose that comes right out of the PVC valve had a huge hole in it...so i got a new PVC and cut the bad spot off the hose (the hole was right by the pvc and the hole was short enough i could cut it and it still reached the pvc easy...) The rest are ok. now... i posted all this on the taurus car club and one guy responded by saying that it was that idle air control thing on top the motor... now...i dont agree because it surged so bad even at high rpm...i thought when those go bad that the idle would just be stuck really high or inbetween not varying with the throttle. nobody else responded. the car has 160k miles on it now. my thoughts were maybe the fuel pump, like it has enough to start it, but not enough to keep it running, and maybe that weird idle for the last 3 years was the hole in the vacuum line by the pvc. my dad thinks its the MAP, but woudld that cause the car to not run at all like this? I dont think that oxygen sensor error would be enough to not even allow the car to run...?? I drove my supercoupe to the exhaust shop with them laying on my workbench and it drove fine...Anyways, What do u guys think?? MAP? Idle air control? fuel pump?? anything else? my sister pays for her own college and really doesnt have the money to pay 40 towing and who knows how much to get it fixed...keep in mind its a 450 dollar car 3 years ago...Thanks
 

· Banned
Joined
·
60 Posts
Originally posted by afi292@Dec 12 2003, 09:55 AM
Hmm intersting..... pics of sister?


Mind you, I'm basing my experience off of a 2.5L Duratec. I do believe it is the Idle Air Control Valve. They're not that hard to take off, and easy to clean. You may need to buy a new gasket, but it's like $2. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,810 Posts
The MAf would do it, and probably cause the other error codes too. I'd try a knew maf, or check its harness and clean the connectons ect. Sounds like it could be loose or sumthing, because if u disconnect it and connect it kidna fast you'd get the same effect...*shrug*
 
G

·
First off, pay attention people!! A guy asks for help and you want to see his sister's pic?? That's not what this club is about, and it will not be tolerated.

Second, he has a MAP, not a MAF.

Now on to the issues--

The surging idle when she bought the car is definetely the IAC motor. Take it off and clean it, or replace it alltogether if it's really gummed up.

As for your current problems, I'd say the MAP sensor is to blame. It'll make the car run exactly as you are explaining. Best bet is to get a manual for the car (if you don't already have one) and test the MAP sensor. It's about a $50 part, so you don't want to run out and buy one if that's not the problem.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out!

~Bob
 

· Banned
Joined
·
60 Posts
Originally posted by Bob Gervais@Dec 12 2003, 12:48 PM
The surging idle when she bought the car is definetely the IAC motor. Take it off and clean it, or replace it alltogether if it's really gummed up.
To add onto what I and Bob said, it's free (except for the price of the Carb/Intake Cleaner) to clean your IAC. You may not even have to buy a new one. A member here went as far as to take his into the shower with him and clean it that way.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top