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I can personally vouch for Alberto's work and business practices. I sent a spare PCM to him last week, and had it back, reflashed, within three days. I have not yet had time to get to the dyno, however I was very impressed. My PCM worked correctly right out of the box, on the first attempt.

Shifting was very much improved. The shifts are not harsh at all, but have been quickened up. The WOT upshift is further up in the RPM range in all gears, and the car, like Dan Thomas', pulls much harder in all gears. I can definitely feel a difference.

Businesswise, I've emailed Alberto quite a few times with questions on tuning, injector size, supercharging, and pretty much anything under the sun to deal with EEC tuning. I've always gotten an answer within two hours, most times within an hour. Alberto is also extremely knowledgable, I got the correct answers the first time, and a lot of mysteries were solved with Alberto's help. Customer service is second to none!

Within the next few weeks, I hope to get to the dyno, and get some figures, with the stock PCM, Apten chip, and American MotorSport reflashed PCM. It'll be nice to compare figures.

For all the reasons listed above, I feel very comfortable recommending Alberto and American MotorSport. Buy with confidence, guys and gals, American MotorSport is top notch.
 

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Hey Bob, I thought you were getting rid of that car? Or is this for your SHO? What's up with that?
 
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This is the 97. The engine's now swapped, and actually the 96 engine I installed with 136k miles is way smoother than the original ever was. We bought the car with about 20k on it.

For financial reasons, and the fact that the car now runs excellent, we've decided to keep it a while and dump some money into the Burban. Makes more sense, the Burban can fit my whole brood with ease, and tow the SHO when I need it to.
 

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Ah, but the question is... will it tow the Vulcan when you need it to


And why didn't you just toss a 'tec in there if you were replacing the engine anyway?

-Dan
 
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Originally posted by dant98@Feb 11 2004, 07:59 PM
Ah, but the question is... will it tow the Vulcan when you need it to


And why didn't you just toss a 'tec in there if you were replacing the engine anyway?

-Dan
The Vulcan was free. Plus, I didn't want the hassle of swapping computers, harnesses, etc. Beleive me, at one point when Kirk had a good running V8, I had thought about swapping subframes, engine and all, and have the only V8 powered SLO. I would have called it the SHLO.


Besides, original plans were to get it running correctly, sell it and buy something else.

Even bigger news to report, I took it out on the highway for a while tonight, playing around with a Grand Am that belongs to a friend of mine. My speedo goes to 110, his goes to 120 or something. We were at or about 120, so I'll need an application to the "Dant 120MPH club"
 

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hehe. Welcome Abord! Glad to have ya. I need to get an accurate speedo or some kind of speed device... I'm shooting for the 130 club, but at this point I won't know if I hit it.

And if you haven't done it already bob, a helpful tiip is to leave the car in Drive not Overdrive untill you nearly redline it in 3rd. This'll give you a much more responsive system at 100+ keeping it in the 3rd gear power band. I think it also puts you closer to the ideal powerband for 4th gear as well when you do actually shift.

I think I might want to start reconsidering some of my suspension system though... I think I need to get the wheels all high speed ballanced... there's a little too much wiggle on them at those speeds. I might need to think about brakes too. If I were to mash my current breaks at that speed I'd probably turn the front pads into swiss cheese.

-Dan
 

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Aww, that's messed up. You're taking credit for my 120mph club dant? Dang, and I was the one who welcomed you. That's it, I'm calling my lawyer!
j/k

Do you guys know how the police calibrate their speedos? I was just think that since the stock speedo is designed to stop at around like 110 or whatever that it might not be 100% accurate in the high speeds.

Have you guys gone all out and and made the speedo needle push against the bottom of the (120mph)guage cluster? I've only done it once, and friggin took forever. But I have had it up to 120 plenty of times. I don't know about you guys, but my 4th gear feels like it's just barely crawling compared to the other gears. Next time I feel like getting crazy, I'm going to try leaving it in thrid til redline as you suggested dant.
 
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Left it in third til redline and shifted. 4th gear pulled much stronger that way. As far as the speedo, I don't trust mine. I had to re adjut the white face gauges, and I don't think I have the needle set correctly. No matter. I'm getting a SHO cluster tomorrow.
 

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You guys were right about leaving it in third, and that elctronic overdrive button on the console shifters makes it really easy. I got a nice solid pull up to 110 before I let it shift today. Can't wait till I'm on the turnpike around midnight way out in BFE. Thanks guys.
 

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Let us know what fun you have.

-Dan
 

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I'm sending Alberto his payment for a chip today so we'll see how good he does for me. SInce I've had trouble getting a chip to work for my in the past, I hoping Alberto's the man and it works on the first start up. I'll report back in about a week when I'll probably get it in the mail.
 

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I remember way back when I got my superchip they had some kind of disclaimer in the box. It was something along the lines of if your car won't take a chip then you needed to mail in your PCM so they could solder a connection somewhere. But if the reflash works, then that sounds like the better way to go.
 

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If the port is disabled, IMHO flashing the computer is the best way around it, hands down, unless you absolutly can't live with a single program chip.

-Dan
 

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I hope it does what you want it to
 

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Got my chip today. When out in the rain and took off the strut bar, than disconnected the battery. Took out the EEC and brought it inside and cleaned up the connectors a little. Put the chip and went back out and hooked up the EEC but, didn't place the EEC back in fire wall, just in case it might not work. And I would have to take everthing back apart. So, I hooked the batter back up and croosed my fingers when I truned the key. And....... It seems I lost all power, everything shut off. So, I turn key back off and wait about one second and trun the key again and noitce the lights come back on. Than I turn the key a little more and the car starts up
. I let it idel for about 5 min. and give it little gas ever now and than. I dertmine everthing is fine. So, I turn the car off and disconnect the batter and EEC and in stall the EEc back in place and notice with the chip in place the EEC dosen't fit 100% but, it does fit about 95% which seems close enough but there is a little bitty space between the EEc holder and the fire wall. I left the battery disconnected. I figure I'll let the EEC reset again or what ever it does. I'll go back out in about 30 min and hook the battery back up and go for a test drive. I don't think I'll be testing to see if the speed limiter is removed (which I'm sure it is) around town though.

Thanx Albert, nice work
 

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No problem. Just make sure you follow all of the installations instructions on there. Be sure you get the contacts clean so that you see copper evenly on both sides and make sure you secure the chip to the EEC and the EEC to it's mounting place as suggesetd in the instructions.

Good Luck!
 

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I used some black duct tape to hold the chip in but, I put another strip of duct tape on so the sticky side wouldn't touch the chip at all.

I just back from my test drive and I must say VERY VERY NICE.

The shifts are noticably better and I can feel a little more power it stays in gear.

One more time. Thanx Albert
 

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Hate to be stupid, but could someone, anyone, take and either post or send me pics of EEC removal? Ive spent HOURS under the hood an din the car trying to figure out where the H it is, but I keep hitting face first into a brick (or fire) wall. I kinda want a chip, but I cant figure out where it is, and my shop techs wont show me for liability reasons.
My top speed is good ol' 113 on the Baltimore/Washington Parkway at 0305, on my way to Baltimore one fine morning a few months ago. Engine barely turning 3600 or so (didnt really look, was doing my best to no chicken out). One thing Ive noticed on all 85+ speeds is the car gets a bit floaty feeling. I should think a suspension job and a revised front air damn would help. My old P71 felt like it was glued to the road, even at 100+.
Also, I would be very interested in the compare/contrast info between one of Mr. Alberto's chips and a Diablo Sport chip. Not trying to stir up hate and discontent, just trying to be an informed consumer.
 
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