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Discussion Starter #1
2013 taurus sel 3.5 has 89000 mile water pump leak at weep hole.no im not taking it to a dealer for repair.im looking for any info on the repair,like diagram of the timing mark and do i need a cam holding tool.oh yeah before you ask i looked everywhere there no info.............thankz
 

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Well, here is one option to consider.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=helm

$20 for a one month online subscription. Naturally other sites (alldatadiy.com, etc.) will have similar options.

Unfortunately, TCCA does not seem to very rich with useful DIY info or HowTo's. I'm kind of surprised by the lack of it. Let us know how you decide to get it fixed.
 

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2013 taurus sel 3.5 has 89000 mile water pump leak at weep hole.no im not taking it to a dealer for repair.im looking for any info on the repair,like diagram of the timing mark and do i need a cam holding tool.oh yeah before you ask i looked everywhere there no info.............thankz

A 2013? ITS UNDER WARRANTY. Why would you not take it to the dealer?
 

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Well, here is one option to consider.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=helm

$20 for a one month online subscription. Naturally other sites (alldatadiy.com, etc.) will have similar options.

Unfortunately, TCCA does not seem to very rich with useful DIY info or HowTo's. I'm kind of surprised by the lack of it. Let us know how you decide to get it fixed.

How-tos for cars that have only been on the market for a few years and have been quite reliable thus far? Surely you jest.

We're loaded with how-tos for the 86-07 cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i ask a tech at ford,and he said in the past 5 year they only seen one bad water pump on a 3.5 also i gotta have a cam holding tool.the cam tool i find on the net from OTC shows 2007 to 2012.so i dont know if that tool will work on a 2013.then he tell me its booked at 12hrs and that i should only let the dealer repair this.................NO DEARLER REPAIRS.............so any info will help................................thanxz
 

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Not at 89,000 miles?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

Ford still have mileage limits on warranties?

OP, you could find another mechanic, that shouldn't be dealer only.

Like I said, the cars are new enough there hasn't been a ton of DIY info yet. Also, there are a lot fewer of them on the road than the older models.
 

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oh yeah before you ask i looked everywhere there no info.............
I have searched and searched, you're right, there is absolutely no info available on this repair. Or any other repair related to the valve train, timing chains, tensioners, or anything else. Not just on the 2013 which makes sense due to the fact that it's new, but even if you look at the 3.5L in general for the past 10 years there isn't anything. Nothing. No web pages, no videos, no Ford Technical training documents, no online documentation, photocopies of pages from the shop manuals, or even photos for cryin' out loud. It's mind boggling.

How-tos for cars that have only been on the market for a few years and have been quite reliable thus far? Surely you jest.
Yes, of course you are right about that. If the lack of repair/technical/DIY info available on the 3.5L both on the forums and online is any measure (and I believe that it is) of reliability, then "quite reliable" is a gross understatement! Bulletproof is more like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanxz /\ stvrr




Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Drain the cooling system.
Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers.
Remove the 4 nuts, the exhaust flexible pipe and the Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
Remove the LH and RH catalytic converters. Refer to the Exhaust Manifold procedure for more information on catalytic converter removal.
If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
Remove the engine front cover.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) assemblies
Install the special tool onto the flats of the LH camshafts.
Install the special tool onto the flats of the RH camshafts.
Remove the 3 bolts and the RH VCT housing.
Remove the 3 bolts and the LH VCT housing.
Remove and discard the VCT housing seals.
Remove the 2 bolts and the primary timing chain tensioner.
Remove the primary timing chain tensioner arm.
Remove the 2 bolts and the lower LH primary timing chain guide.
Remove the primary timing chain.
Remove the 2 bolts and the upper LH primary timing chain guide.
Remove the RH primary timing chain guide lower bolt.
Loosen the RH primary timing chain guide upper bolt. Rotate the guide and tighten the bolt. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Drain the cooling system.
Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers.
Remove the 4 nuts, the exhaust flexible pipe and the Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
Remove the LH and RH catalytic converters. Refer to the Exhaust Manifold procedure for more information on catalytic converter removal.
If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
Remove the engine front cover.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) assemblies
Install the special tool onto the flats of the LH camshafts.
Install the special tool onto the flats of the RH camshafts.
Remove the 3 bolts and the RH VCT housing.
Remove the 3 bolts and the LH VCT housing.
Remove and discard the VCT housing seals.
Remove the 2 bolts and the primary timing chain tensioner.
Remove the primary timing chain tensioner arm.
Remove the 2 bolts and the lower LH primary timing chain guide.
Remove the primary timing chain.
Remove the 2 bolts and the upper LH primary timing chain guide.
Remove the RH primary timing chain guide lower bolt.
Loosen the RH primary timing chain guide upper bolt. Rotate the guide and tighten the bolt.
Remove the 8 bolts and the water pump.
Thoroughly clean and inspect all mating surfaces.
Remove the 8 bolts and the water pump.
Thoroughly clean and inspect all mating surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
my 2010 fusion sport 3.5 with 185000 mile is more crammed in the engine bay i hope i never had to change out a pump on this one,but next off day im gonna open up the BULL and get started on it.oh wait still looking for the cam tool........uggggh
 

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Wow! That is an uggggh. It would probably take less time to put in a new engine. And all for a water pump. Makes me think twice about buying a newer car.
What price did the dealer quote to do the job?
 

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It does sound bad, but if it is like any other Ford shop manual procedure, there are usually unnecessary steps involved.
 

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The bigger question is other than a Shared Fleet vehicle or Police/Taxi how does a 2013 get 89K already.? Even if warranty applied they might not cover that classification of vehicles.
 

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DJC....They forgot the most important step.....And almost boiler plate language in many maintenance manuals especially Automobiles...

Remove Negative Battery cable....

Just kidding but seriously.....Remove Negative Battery Cable......

What part of the Hoosier state? Good to see my Deep Impact Blue legacy being carried on while I am out of state. Former Hoosier 9 years Indianapolis.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
89000 mile car is my office my daily driver,my 2010 i retire to my baby girl 185000 before that 2004 sable 269000 and so on.past 19 yr drivin ford im around 900000 mile and this is the second water pump on any car on my fords that i have to replace.the dealer rate is 125hr in chicago at 12hr plus parts.my car are only service by me.never had a major on any of my past fords................................................................................................................now im waiting for the tool.............................................................................................................................20011tarussel.....................hammond indiana
 

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Dude, that's a crap ton of effing work for replacing the water pump! It makes you think why didn't they have timing belts instead for the amount of work being put into the car for this job.
 

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Got 100k on the 2011 bull right now. This water pump location scares me. Kinda like the Chrysler 2.7. If the pumps start leaking the coolant goes into the crankcase. Bye bye engine.

I should be around 150k to 160k this fall. Think I'm gonna trade it in.

If you do the repair, do a photo shoot of the repair process. Might help others.
 
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