Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I only ask because i drive a 15+ year old car and people often balk when i dropped $300 for front struts last year or $230 last week for a lower heater hose. How do i justify it. I OWN the damn thing and it still drives/runs like a 2 year old car. I think at this point the motor or tranny would have to give out before i even considered replacing the car. I know the trade n value is nil at this point but if the repair is less than 3 months worth of payments on a newer car. I'm already coming out ahead.

So what's the most expensive repair you guys and gals ate to keep a Bull on the road? No need to include pricing, knowing the failed component or nature of the repair will suffice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,224 Posts
Most of us here do our own repairs, so it's less of an issue. Do you? For me, the most expensive thing was a $25 oil pan gasket, from a shop perspective. Would have been $3-400
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Well my limit is about $1000, car needs a torque converter and I'm not willing to spend the $1k on it when the car is only worth about 1k with a working one. Other than that, I don't mind spending $100-$200 here and there, a few recent repairs were a CV joint, motor mounts, PS pump, alternator. They all happened one at a time and that was after the torque converter went although I did the alternator right after the torque converter problem hoping that it might have just been an electrical problem. I'm just keeping it going until I can find a decent replacement. I've been looking for a while and haven't really found anything I really like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,801 Posts
Thus far has been getting a set of heads done at the machine shop on the 03. I did all the other work but the machine work was a little spendy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,962 Posts
So far, the most expensive thing I've done is replace the front struts & springs. Next would be front & rear brakes.

Repairs that I've paid for, thus far, have been in the $150-250 range - rear springs (labor), front ball joints (labor), inner tie rod. But, the looming rust repair might be 10X that. I'm not a metal bender/welder.

I rebuilt a couple of engines in my younger days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
I paid 550 or so for the fuel pump to get replaced. (plus tow fee of about 70) It was like 100 something degrees out, I was having no part of doing any work in that sun :p Other than that, Ive only taken my car into a shop 4 times, oil change - it was hot out and I didnt want to crawl under the car, plus its cheaper to have it done at a shop nowadays. tires, alignment and that fuel pump repair. I wont be taking my car back to any shop ever again unless its for new tires. They screw something up every time.

Thatd be the most expensive at one time. Current car has about 1800 invested into it, it cost me 2400. Not all repair costs, more than half was just for fun or just so it was new. This cars not going anywhere, its worth nothing anyway to anyone but me :D
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,917 Posts
I do the repair work on all of our vehicles. In 25+ years of driving Bulls in various incarnations I have only paid for a repair on one. I had the misfortune to need a steering rack while recovering from back surgery, the cost was $250 P & L. It was an on the side repair done by an ASE mechanic friend that probably should have cost double that. I have put what would no doubt look to a non shocoholic like silly amounts of money into upgrades to a few SHO's over the years including having trannys built up to withstand performance upgrades but that couldn't realistically be viewed as money spent on repairs. Should it come to it though I wouldn't hesitate to put an engine or transaxle into our wagon but would draw the line at doing an equivalent amount of rust repair work, that's too slippery a slope.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
474 Posts
I spent several grand rebuilding the engine on my 98. (about half of that at the machine shop) The car ran like a top afterwards and I basically had a new engine. I swore off debt and car payments a long time ago. The way I see it even at several grand it is only about 5 - 6 months of the average car payment and I end up with a reliable and PAID FOR car that I like to drive.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Living in the northeast for me it's all about the body condition vs repair.
I call it the rust / repair value ratio. My current car will get repairs to keep it going but engine or trans will send it to the JY .
Also you have to consider putting more money into a car than it's worth if it should get totaled. These are just ordinary daily driver cars for the most part and one has to separate emotional ties to a hunk of uncaring metal.
Regrets, I've had a few.......
 

·
Has It Been That Long?
Joined
·
11,998 Posts
Only things I've paid people to do were either things pros should handle (tires/alignment) or stuff I didn't want to bother with (transaxle). Never more than a couple hundred at a time though. Otherwise, everything else (suspension, brakes, tuneup, oil pan gasket, etc) I've done with my father when I'm down in AZ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Depends.


I have a 2002 with only 66K on it that has spent its life in a garage. The first month I owned it I replaced the cam sensor, oil pan gasket, the timing chain cover and water pump and the harmonic balancer and flushed the coolant - all done in my garage for about $230 total - just to take care of a small oil leak and as preventive maintenance given its age and the fact that I was "in there" anyway.


To find another mid sized car (of any make or any year) with no rust, no dents, good paint and a clean interior with that kind of mileage will easily run $4000 to $8000 or more. Book on it is probably around $3K retail - but you'll look a long time to find one similar for that price - mainly because they don't exist. I would probably replace the engine or transmission in it - but if I thought there was the possibility of needing both its headed to the salvage yard.


Normal "maintenance" items like struts, brakes and springs are a no brainer - anything you buy could easily need the same - along with the cost of a purchase. USUALLY the cheapest car you can own is the one you already have. So spending a $400 on a $1200 car that is otherwise dependable is cheap compared to buying something you don't know and having the possibility of the same repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Overall I think these are good cars and like others here I do most if not all of the repairs myself. The money I save on shop labor helps me afford any tools needed that I don't already have. Like others have said if you compare the cost of maintenance repairs (that you would have with any higher mileage car) to a monthly payment of a new car it's easy to justify it. To your question about where the limit would be I would have to say any major engine/transmission work needed on my '01 or '04 that I could not do myself would probably push the limits based on the value of the car and the cost to replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
I love my Third Bull and do all I can to keep it running. It's paid for, good gas mileage, fun to drive, cheap to insure, and with regular maintenance, reliable.

It's been diagnosed with a timing cover leak. Ford wants $2400 to fix it, so obviously, I won't be going there. (I'm aware this is not an easy repair and requires the engine to be pulled.) Hopefully I'll find a local shop that can do it for less. Meanwhile I'll monitor oil consumption.

I don't want another used car; I know all the work I've had done on this one and it runs well. I can't really afford a new one and don't want payments.

I don't mind paying for regular maintenance items - tires, struts, oil changes, filters etc. It's worth it to keep the car going.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Not my Taurus, but the car previous to it.


2006 Infiniti G35x that I've had since new. I repaired everything on it. Wheel bearings, electrical gremlins, suspension parts, etc. But the final failure was when the front driveshaft on the AWD system decided to let go at 80MPH (Infiniti AWD is rear-biased, like a truck). It did some damage under the car. Prob $1K in used parts, and a weekend of work.


SInce the car had 172K miles, I decided I was done with it. I bought my Taurus. I'd rather make payments right now, as my free time is more valueable and I no longer want to spend it repairing old cars.


Dealer didn't want the Infiniti, so it's still sitting in the garage broken. I might RWD convert it and drop in an LS1. :)
 

·
Exalted Grand Poobah
Joined
·
4,750 Posts
I won't do an engine rebuild or a transmission rebuild, that is for the pros. I spent $1800 a year ago to have my transmission rebuilt by an expert. Otherwise, I do everything and figure what I have saved on the "smaller" jobs - front and rear suspension rebuilds and replacing the HVAC system over the past four years - paid for the tranny twice over. Haven't made a car payment in years on this wagon. Southern cars will last for years, so down here you find one you like and keep it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Makes me feel good and accomplished seeing these comments on how much people paid for there maintenance. I've done front struts tranny and oil pan drop and replaced gaskets and filter on tranny front brakes. Rock auto has a good closeout sale on old parts that they need to get rid of. I got my front struts (monroe) for less than 40 bucks for the pair. This is my first car I've been really motivated and confident to do my own repairs on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Most expensive single repair, (going by if you took it to a shop vs. do it yourself), is replacing headgaskets due to overheating. The bolts and gasket set cost around 150$ or less from rockauto, enginetech brand both. So far what's been done to the car (including previously mentioned),are both front strut assemblies, both front axles, (the passenger side due to stripped threads), both front rotors(and pads of course), fuel pump, water pump, serp. belt, alternator, starter, all the pullies not connected to any accessories aside from tensioner, upper o2 sensors and a switched out fuel pressure sensor from jy because trying to figure out a running rich problem.

Replaced the head gaskets with the help of makuloco's youtube videos on my exact engine, amazing help. Took 2 full days working on it and freezing temperatures. I'd rather that than blazing hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Most expensive repair, $1300 to have AC compressor replaced and serviced on '06 500. I have not returned to that shop.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top