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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my 98 restoration project hit another snag today. Fought the right
disk the other day, finally got it done. went to the left side to put on pads. the caliper seemed to not screw in all the way, so no go. And one of the slide pins is firmly rusted into the caliper mount.

Went to the junk yard to get a right side caliper. on most all the rear disk cars i found today, the pins were frozen into the caliper mount.
so i did not come home with a caliper mount and just got the caliper.

I sprayed the pin after the aborted attempt to get mine out. the boot
on it was FULL of rust. So for anyone who has got a really stuck pin, how did you do it? I tried vice grips and tried to turn it. No go. I tried to pound it in to break it loose, no go. I only thing i did not do yet was heat.
any opinions on this appreciated. Also? what are you using for slide pin lub

After what i saw in the bone yard, i wonder how many GEN3's and so
are running around with stuck pins and draging rear disks.
 

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be careful with heat. i popped a line and watched the flames while thinking wow this sucks.
but when it gets really stuck i use acetone then use parrot beak channel locks and work it in both directions. i also use a wrench on the end of the channel locks for leverage.
this normally only cost me some skin and a little blood when it does give.
 

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I would just run to az and get the bracket, pins, boots and hardware. Az used to sell the dorman loaded caliper mount bracket for ~ $20 which included all the above. Now, the s.o.b.s itemize everything ($) and costs an extra $10-15, but you can buy what you need a la carte. I learned to slather all 4 pins (esp.on the rear) with never-seize instead of grease and have never had another frozen pin since. I also use the anti-seize on the front pins.
 

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Funny when I did the back brakes on my 97 a few years ago I too had one caliper pin that was frozen solid with no lubrication. All the others were fine. Weird.
 

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Funny when I did the back brakes on my 97 a few years ago I too had one caliper pin that was frozen solid with no lubrication. All the others were fine. Weird.
I had one pin on one caliper stuck but not really hard stuck.

I noticed that when starting up for the day, put in gear, and it did not roll, just like in "N". Little throttle and off it went. Seemed like brakes dragging just until it went around a turn, like out of my driveway.

So after sitting over night, I jacked up one wheel at a time and turned the wheel. Left front hard to turn. Took off caliper and one pin had to use vice grips to get the pin out. Cleaned the pin, took a gun cleaning swab and cleaned the hole with kerosene. Greased with CV joint grease, put back and it was free.

Checked all the other pins by pulling the pln out and all were clean and greasy and free. Just this one was hardened grease. Boot was good, no reason for that. Pads were still fine. Caught just in time.

One more maint item. I got 4 wheel disc, and wonder why one pin in 8 would stick and have hardened grease.

The problems that crop up keep on and on. However witha 10+ year old car, these things are expected. I never had one stuck before. When I change pads, I push these things in and they just pop back out to their happy location, free, never pulled one out.

-chart-
 

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I always pull the pins with any pad r&r to clean and relube, esp. on the neglected rears, which dont get serviced near as often. Instead of removing just 1 caliper pin bolt and pivoting the caliper on the other to change the pads, it takes 5 min. longer to pull both pins. Im also a fan of crc or permatex disc brake quiet sprayed on the pad backing plate. Do this before starting repair so it can tack-up prior installation.
 

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I may go a bit over board with my cars, I do complete brake jobs every 2 years. Every other April I will do a complete brake job, new pads & rotors and a complete clean and re-lube of all moving parts. This way I never have to worry about problems of any kind. If any parts dont clean and move free, they get replaced right away. The only real cost is new rotors every 2 years and a couple cans of brake clean since I have the lifetime pads for both my car and my wifes. Since she only drives about 5K a year on her car and its inside in the winter, I go 4 years on hers, but I do take them apart at 2 years to check and lube.
My thoughts, you can never be to carefull with brakes. A little extra time keeps them worry free.
 

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I may go a bit over board with my cars, I do complete brake jobs every 2 years. Every other April I will do a complete brake job, new pads & rotors and a complete clean and re-lube of all moving parts. This way I never have to worry about problems of any kind. If any parts dont clean and move free, they get replaced right away. The only real cost is new rotors every 2 years and a couple cans of brake clean since I have the lifetime pads for both my car and my wifes. Since she only drives about 5K a year on her car and its inside in the winter, I go 4 years on hers, but I do take them apart at 2 years to check and lube.
My thoughts, you can never be to carefull with brakes. A little extra time keeps them worry free.
i also check my brakes every 2 yrs. I also replace the fluid. after the bleed i coat the bleeder with anti seize before putting the cover back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, today i got back to the project. tried to heat up the stuck caliper pin
on the car with a propane touch. i worked it and even tried a "C" clamp to put constant pressure on it. No go.

At that point, i took the caliper bracket off where i could get better access to it.
I was using Kroil as a penetrating oil. i sprayed it again, and put it in my table vice
so the vice jaws would press on the stuck pin and sprayed and hammered on it.
gradually, the vice jaws loosened. i kept gradually doing this until the pin moved
most of the way into the caliper mount. I then flipped the caliper mount in the vice
and then put vice grips on the caliper pin and worked it out. Finally, success.

So i cleaned up the caliper bracket and prepared to put it back on. I did make one
interesting discovery. The caliper pins go into a insert that seems to be pressed
into the caliper bracket. There is a small lip on this insert that seems to hold the rubber caliper pin slider boot in place. This lip was practically gone on the bad side
i just pulled. The other side seemed to be intact

So my theory on this is why so many caliper pins were stuck in the bone yard.
The caliper bracket lip was not intact for whatever reason causing the pin boot
not to seal to the caliper bracket or totally separate. once this happened,
water and crud got in and rusted out the caliper pin causing it to seize in the
caliper holder bracket.
 

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What a drag

Hi,

I realize that you are talking pads and my problem is rear shoes, however, ...

I was wondering if what you are describing could be the cause of an ongoing problem I have had with my Taurus's. A gen 3 and gen 4 both tend to drag the passenger back tire on gravel when braking. After failed attempts to repair, took the first gen 3 to Ford garage and they clean out brake dust and made small brake adjustment. This was a short lived solution. After that, just figured I would have to live with the problem. Later, when I got the Gen 4 and it did the same thing (although to a lesser degree), I tried to allow for extra braking distance.

What would be sticking in the drums?
 

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Hi,

I realize that you are talking pads and my problem is rear shoes, however, ...

I was wondering if what you are describing could be the cause of an ongoing problem I have had with my Taurus's. A gen 3 and gen 4 both tend to drag the passenger back tire on gravel when braking. After failed attempts to repair, took the first gen 3 to Ford garage and they clean out brake dust and made small brake adjustment. This was a short lived solution. After that, just figured I would have to live with the problem. Later, when I got the Gen 4 and it did the same thing (although to a lesser degree), I tried to allow for extra braking distance.

What would be sticking in the drums?
Wheel cylinder starting to freeze up, weak return springs, binding parking brake cable on that side.
Check the oppisite side for a frozen wheel cylinder, that would put more pressure on the wheel that's locking up. Had that on a Gen 1
 
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Wheel cylinder starting to freeze up, weak return springs, binding parking brake cable on that side.
Check the oppisite side for a frozen wheel cylinder, that would put more pressure on the wheel that's locking up. Had that on a Gen 1
this info is priceless. most shops/mechanics look at the side that is locking up and can never resolve the issue.
 

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this info is priceless. most shops/mechanics look at the side that is locking up and can never resolve the issue.

I agree with Bigdogg2830, very useful info. Thanks Repairman54.

Probably should be part of routine check of brakes. Tires and braking system has always rated high on my list of importance.
 
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