[majisto]

So I go to find out that the local oil change place (I can't change oil in my apartment complex...) is putting in Castrol GTX 10W-30 in the Vulcan.

I talked with a friend at Church who said he would do the oil and filter install for me for free.

I picked up a Wix oil filter, and was very impressed with it. Silicon anti-drain back valve, and it just felt solid. I also picked up good ol' Mobil 1 0W-20 since Ford now recommends 5W-20 in the Vulcan.

After draining the old oil (Do these oil change places using impact wrenches to put those darn oil plugs on? We used an air wrench at 40 PSI to get it off) and almost scalding my hand trying to get the stupid filter off (Note, one person working from the bottom, and one from the top on a COLD engine makes it very easy), I got the Mobil 1 in there, and started her up.

Instantly, the car sounded different. I never knew the somewhat valve clattery Vulcan could idle like a Duratec. It really was amazing how quieter my engine became with just a lighter weight synthetic. No leaks were detected, and it runs great. Also, the cold start will be safer since the oil is lighter and will coat the engine faster. Who would have thought oil could do so much?

With the new Goodyears all around the car, and the Pioneer system I just got in, I think I can finally say I prefer driving the Taurus over the Explorer.

I am going to go check again for leaks, and I will keep you guys informed on how this combination works, and whether or not any oil is burned off. Total money spent: $28.75. Wix/Mobil 1 combination is great. I highly recommend it to Vulcaneers and Duratecies.

 

[Guest]

My lazy butt goes to the Valvoline Instant Oil Change places (I know, I know....) and gets Valvoline Full Synthetic (5w30) with a Valvoline oil filter (of course) and my vulcan idles and purrs silky smooth.

 

[afi292]

oh i noticed the sound difference right away when i put in amsoil 5w-20 full synthetic oil in.. it sounded a lot smoother, and ran a LIL smoother too.. overall im highly impressed with synthetic oils.

 

[mikehawk]

Well now I kinda feel left out. I won't get to experience the change because I've used synthetic oil since I've owned this car. BTW, I'm hooked on those K&N oil filters. They don't have the greatest micron filtering abilities, but they have awesome flow rates, and can handle an assload of pressure. Plus, that 1" nut welded to the bottom makes installation and removal really easy.

 

[sundarpn]

I wanna use Mobile 1 syn.. 5w30 but damm scared to put that in my 132 k mile vulcan....

if it leaked I am screwed.

I am running V. Maxlife 5w30 since 1 yr now.

 

[spridget]

sundarpn: You are probably best sticking to what you are using, however, 10w-30 may be better. A little heavier to make up for the added wear. It will prevet blow-by, especially in the warmer months.


Majisto: Welcome to the Dark Side

.I used Mobil 1 in the 'tec for several years, and have now switched to Royal Purple. Remember, you will not need to change your oil and filter for at least 5k miles. You can easily go 7.5k or beyond. Amsoil users go to 12k, only changing the filter every 3k and topping up. Royal Purple recommends the same thing. (I still change my oil and filter at 5-7.5k regardless)

 

[Guest]

So I could be going longer than 3k miles on oil changes with my Valvoline Synthetic?

Well, the owner's manual says to change every 5k even on dino oil, so I guess I'm doing good since I religiously change it every 3k.

 

[spridget]

Originally posted by jason8225@Apr 24 2004, 09:25 PM
So I could be going longer than 3k miles on oil changes with my Valvoline Synthetic?

Well, the owner's manual says to change every 5k even on dino oil, so I guess I'm doing good since I religiously change it every 3k.

If you want to spend the money and time, find an oil analysis lab. You can probably find a link at www.bobistheoilguy.com. Unless you live in a dusty area, you are wasting your money. And at almost $5 a quart..... that's a little extra money you'll be saving.

Of course, there is no harm is changing your oil every 3k.

 

[draconix]

I'm horrible on my cars, so when I got the Taurus, I decided to change that... I'm with Jason8225, I change every 3K... and I also put 120Mi./Day on my car... Jus regular Dino for me... synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do... Maxlife can overbloat seals and cause havoc, and synths are great for the race track, but not needed in day-to-day low performance drivers...

 

[afi292]

Originally posted by Draconix@Apr 24 2004, 11:42 PM
I'm horrible on my cars, so when I got the Taurus, I decided to change that... I'm with Jason8225, I change every 3K... and I also put 120Mi./Day on my car... Jus regular Dino for me... synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do... Maxlife can overbloat seals and cause havoc, and synths are great for the race track, but not needed in day-to-day low performance drivers...

when you live in a place that sees subzero temperatures daily.. synthetics are a good thing to have..even in family sedans.

 

[godspunk32]

I know that some people hate FRAM oil filters, but I really like them, and I've never had a reason to NOT like them.

I used to use regular Valvoline 5w-30 in the Duratec, but today I decided to switch to Valvoline Durablend, which is a synthetic blend. Noticable difference in idle smoothness. I'm definitely going to use a semi-synthetic from now on. Once I get my 06' Cobra, full synthetic only, though.

Majisto-
It is much easier (and faster) to drain the oil from an engine that was warmed to about operating temp and then let cool for about 15-20 minutes. Although the oil gets shot up into the heads, it becomes much thinner as it warms up (molecules move apart, collisions increase), therefore, the oil drips to the pan faster, and drains faster. Of course, I wouldn't suggest removing the filter while it's still hot, because you'll burn the crap out of your hand around the exhaust pipes as well as spill oil on them, which could start a fire, but would most likely just start smoking.

JR

 

[UnDeR EsTiMaTeD]

Originally posted by sundarpn@Apr 24 2004, 06:57 PM
I wanna use Mobile 1 syn.. 5w30 but damm scared to put that in my 132 k mile vulcan....

if it leaked I am screwed.

I am running V. Maxlife 5w30 since 1 yr now.

If it makes you feel any better, I switched over to Mobil 1 a little bit over 100,000 miles with no leaking problems at all. If you've changed your oil regularly and want to switch, go for it. If it leaks, just switch back. Also, if you switch, change the oil and filter after about 2,000 miles for the first time because you'll clear out some crud and build up in the engine.

When I switched, I noticed a quieter engine, easier starts, and even a little bit of a higher idle due to less friction.

 

[mwt]

I have changed to synthetic on several used cars after I purchased. One thing you will notice is after first couple of changes the synthetic oil will be dirtier. I guess the syntheti really helps clean the engine.

btw I run Valvoline Synpower and I run it between 5500 to 6500 miles. I would be changing it every two weeks if I did the 3000 mile thing. I also like the Wix or Purolator filters

 

[sundarpn]

Originally posted by Draconix@Apr 24 2004, 11:42 PM
I'm horrible on my cars, so when I got the Taurus, I decided to change that... I'm with Jason8225, I change every 3K... and I also put 120Mi./Day on my car... Jus regular Dino for me... synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do... Maxlife can overbloat seals and cause havoc, and synths are great for the race track, but not needed in day-to-day low performance drivers...

Max life can over bloat seals??

How true is that... any experiences?

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by mwt@Apr 25 2004, 07:50 AM
I have changed to synthetic on several used cars after I purchased. One thing you will notice is after first couple of changes the synthetic oil will be dirtier. I guess the syntheti really helps clean the engine.

btw I run Valvoline Synpower and I run it between 5500 to 6500 miles. I would be changing it every two weeks if I did the 3000 mile thing. I also like the Wix or Purolator filters

I run the Synpower stuff about every other oil change, too. Changing my oil every 3k puts me in there every month for an oil change... I gotta stop piling up miles... <_<

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by sundarpn+Apr 25 2004, 10:49 AM-->QUOTE (sundarpn @ Apr 25 2004, 10:49 AM)

<!--QuoteBegin-Draconix

@Apr 24 2004, 11:42 PM
I'm horrible on my cars, so when I got the Taurus, I decided to change that... I'm with Jason8225, I change every 3K... and I also put 120Mi./Day on my car... Jus regular Dino for me... synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do... Maxlife can overbloat seals and cause havoc, and synths are great for the race track, but not needed in day-to-day low performance drivers...

Max life can over bloat seals??

How true is that... any experiences? [/b]

I never had a problem with MaxLife when I ran it in my Gen 3. It was probably the most poorly taken care of car I ever had (previous owner didn't take care of it at all). When I rolled over 75k I started running Maxlife and ran it through 100k, but then I got rid of the car b/c the tranny started going out. I am convinced the MaxLife products truly helped my Gen 3. It seemed to run better after using them, I think they really do work with the whole restoring lost power thing and everything.

My friend who has a Jeep Cherokee, w/ the 4.0L I6 started running Maxlife at 75k and he's at 105k now and hasn't had a problem either... yet.

So if that makes you feel any better...

 

[spridget]

Originally posted by Draconix@Apr 24 2004, 10:42 PM
synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do...

Show me some proof of that.

Otherwise I call

 

[ron porter]

Originally posted by sundarpn+Apr 25 2004, 09:49 AM-->QUOTE (sundarpn @ Apr 25 2004, 09:49 AM)

<!--QuoteBegin-Draconix

@Apr 24 2004, 11:42 PM
I'm horrible on my cars, so when I got the Taurus, I decided to change that... I'm with Jason8225, I change every 3K... and I also put 120Mi./Day on my car... Jus regular Dino for me... synths and conditioners are ok, but in the long run, more people have problems with it than regular dino people do... Maxlife can overbloat seals and cause havoc, and synths are great for the race track, but not needed in day-to-day low performance drivers...

Max life can over bloat seals??

How true is that... any experiences? [/b]

Not true at all!! MaxLife oils work very well!!

I had an informal test I conducted awhile back on the SHO lists with various MaxLife oils. I have been using them for a few years now. The prior '95 SHO had leaky crank seals. This '94 has leaky valve seals.

The test was on the '95, but Castrol MaxLife 10W-30 worked very well. Valvoline was a close 2nd, and Pennzoil helped a little, but not enough to justify the price.

On this '94, the first two owners ran Mobil 1 5W-30 exclusively for the first 168K miles, and the car went through a quart every 800 miles when I got it. Going to Valvoline MaxLife 10w-30 doubled that to 1,600 per quart. AZ near me was always out of Castrol 10w-30 MaxLife, but I just bought some today that I'll be putting in next week.

FWIW, I had Jiffy Lube do an oil change awhile back. The Quaker State 10w-30 MaxLife went about 1,200 before it was a quart low.

Other SHO folks have found the MaxLife oils to work very well for both valve seals and leaky crank seals.

 

[ron porter]

The argument between dino versus synthetic oil is the same as arguing religion or politics.....everyone is right and no one can convince the others!!

After owning an '89 SHO for 10 years and 182K miles that had dino oil changes religiously every 3K.....and saw 7K multiple times every day, as well as other abuse, dino oil has worked for me and produced no excessive wear. That car got near 30 mpg on the highway, and finally started needing a quart every 2K....which turned out to be a leaky pan gasket that the new owner repaired. The car has over 200K on it, and was turning 14.8s @ 96 in a 20 mph headwind with a slipping clutch a few years ago.

The basics are that regular changes are key. Extended changes with synth is OK if you do oil analysis, but crud still collects in ANY type of oil.

Religious 3K changes with the "On Sale" oil and the "On Sale" filters have worked well for me for a new car that I drove for a lot of miles.

 

[sundarpn]

I take more than 3 months (more like 5 months) to get to 3k miles....
(I use valvoline max life & motorcraft fl400s on my gen 3 1996 GL having 132 k miles.)

Do I have to change at 3 months even if i have only like 1500 miles...