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Here is a something from another board I'm on. They were talking about synthetic oils. I just wanna find out if it's true or false. Here ya go.


"After many oil changes for various vehicles in my lifetime it was time for me to pull the plug on the infamous "Mobil 1" and you may ask why does this topic deserve its own thread? Well because i want everyone to know the REAL truth behind those so called "Synthetics" let me start off by saying Mobil 1 does not use real synthetic base stocks they use more like refined group III base stocks with additives which is basically Dino oil with additives
Heres the basics
Grp I,II,III are all dino oil based stocks = non synthetic
Grp IV, V are true synthetic based stocks
Mobil 1 stopped using its Grp IV when it lost its lawsuit against Castrol for them using "Fully synthetic" while using grp III as their blends ...Mobil 1 in return did the same and started using highly reformulated grp III stock based oils and called it fully synthetic

Known companies
Mobil 1 = Using Grp III
Castrol Syntec = Grp III [NOTE ONLY ONES THAT ARE MADE IN USA]
Castrol Syntec Euro Formula the only castrol that is synthetic in usa = Grp IV
Penzoil Platinum = Grp III
Royal Purple = Grp IV and V but does not contain high traces of detergents resulting better for the race track other than daily driver
Amsoil = Grp IV and V
I know there is other companies out there but the major brands have been provided
So what does this mean?
Its still up to you what you choose but today i bought Castrol Euro Formula for $6 a quart vs Mobil 1 $7.59 a quart you do the math PLUS your being lied to no brainer "




Is this true and does it really matter anyways?
 

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As far as I know this is true. Before the debate fires up I will say that it makes no difference to anyone who maintains reasonable oil change intervals. Anything up to 5000 miles and you should feel comfortable using any name brand convetional oil. Synthetics of any type should be fine for up to 10K mile OCI's. (this assumes the engine is in good condition to begin with) I am personally not comfortable with OCI's past 10K miles, so any higher TBN's are meaningless to me. There are possibly some issues with extreme cold startup, but unless you see regular, sustained temperatures below 0 degrees Farenheit, I don't see it being a real issue. My cars always start just fine below freezing no matter what is in the oil pan.

There would have to be some radical new ideas in filtration before I would consider 15K mile OCI's with today's oil in any contemporary car engine. Other may feel differently, but I just don't wan't to run old oil that is contaminated with 15K miles of combustion by-products in my cars. Also, I like to get under the car every 4K miles or so to take a good look at everything. All my cars have Fumoto valves, so draining the oil is easy and clean. The filter is usually the messy part.
 

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I though Mobil 1 had been reformulated to Grp III a over a year ago - Pennzoil Platinum used to be IV as well. I don't think it really matters to anyone doing fairly standard change intervals.

Especially on the Vulcan, which is notoriously easy on oil, it makes no difference to me. $7.59/qt for Mobil 1 sounds way high to me, though.
 

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Mobil 1 has been reformulated into 5 different products now. Mobil 1, 5000, 7500, high mileage, and extended performance. I don't know for certain, but I believe the confusion is regarding regular Mobil 1. Extended Performance is claimed to be fully synthetic.

You've never seen an oil like this before. Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a high-endurance motor oil designed for longer service intervals. It is a fully synthetic formulation that helps extend engine life, reduce oil breakdown and minimize engine wear -- all while helping to keep your engine clean. Improvements that add up to exceptional protection for 15,000 miles. Guaranteed.[/b]
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils.aspx
 

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I believe it has more to do with the filter. Amsoil now has a nanofiber (glass) filter (probably made by WIX) that is by far the best filter on the market. Due to this new filter, Amsoil now recommends a 1 year or 25,000 mile drain interval (which ever comes first) for "normal driving conditions".

That said, 25K seems like a lot of miles to me. So I'm experimenting with the ODY. I will take Amsoil at thier word and give her a try. When I do the swap out in June, I will collect a sample of the oil and send it off to Blackstone for an analysis to see if Amsoil knows what thier talking about or thier full of .....

Edit (add more info): Amsoils 0W-20 Full synthetic oil cost's me $7.20 per quart (preferred customer). So.....cost per oil change isn't too bad.
 

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If you buy the 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 regular synthetic at Walmart, it comes out to be $5.20 per qt. That is all I use in mine, and I change the Motorcraft filter every 5k, the oil every 10k. I'm now running 5w30 instead of 5w20
 

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This is a big debate on the "Bob is the OIL Guy" website. Most manufactures will not tell you what their formulations are. They could be straight Group III or a combo of III, IV and V to get the performance they are looking for. Most major brands at stores are Group III with maybe a little IV mixed in.

More important is the additive package they use. This really makes the oil.

Does it matter?. Depends. Do you want to run the best? What are your oil change intervals? Do you really stress the engine or run a turbo? In truth your vehicle on a good dino oil could last longer than you care to keep it or until the body or tranny falls apart.

You forgot Redline Oil. An awesome Group V oil.
 
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