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Discussion Starter #1
2000 Taurus 3.0 flex fuel. When I start the car up cold and drive it right away it has a miss. A couple of times the check engine light blinked and then stayed off when the engine warmed up. Once the car is warmed up it runs great. The other day I started it up and the car ran with a miss but when it warmed up the check engine light stayed on and I had a code for misfire on cylinder 1, and the car had the miss even when warmed up. The next day I went out to check the car, started it up let it warm up and it ran great. I think it might be a sticky injector that may be dripping some gas and fouling the plug and giving me the miss on start up. I added some Sea Foam and will see what happens. Any ideas.
 

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It also could be a slight vacuum leak, which seals up when rubber expands. Possibly a cracked hose or bad intake manifold gaskets.
 

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+1 to all of the above. I had a similar situation and found the clamp on my air intake was loose. Also, make sure you are using good gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Tonight after work I got into the car and let it warm up a little. Started driving and it ran rough until it warmed up some more. Then I drove a little bit more and it started to miss and the light came on. I hooked up my scanner and got the codes for cylinder 1 and 2 misses. I haven't had a chance to look the car over, I work 12 hour days and don't get a chance when I get home. I will get a chance on Monday to get into it. Just looking for ideas now. It has about 80,000 miles on it and I don't know when it was tuned up last or if it ever was.
It always ran good except for the start up problem now the cylinder misses are new in the last couple of days. The only thing that is different is the weather the last couple of days have been rain and snow so maybe the humidity.
Just looking for ideas.



Had 10 minutes before dinner, so I went to check the car. Started right up, no miss, drove it around the block and no miss. It ran smooth. Hooked the scanner up and no codes. Also did a quick check for a vacumn leak and didn't hear anything. Also the plug wires look original.
 

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Tonight after work I got into the car and let it warm up a little. Started driving and it ran rough until it warmed up some more. Then I drove a little bit more and it started to miss and the light came on. I hooked up my scanner and got the codes for cylinder 1 and 2 misses. I haven't had a chance to look the car over, I work 12 hour days and don't get a chance when I get home. I will get a chance on Monday to get into it. Just looking for ideas now. It has about 80,000 miles on it and I don't know when it was tuned up last or if it ever was.
It always ran good except for the start up problem now the cylinder misses are new in the last couple of days. The only thing that is different is the weather the last couple of days have been rain and snow so maybe the humidity.
Just looking for ideas.


Had 10 minutes before dinner, so I went to check the car. Started right up, no miss, drove it around the block and no miss. It ran smooth. Hooked the scanner up and no codes. Also did a quick check for a vacumn leak and didn't hear anything. Also the plug wires look original.
I would replace the wires and replace/inspect the plugs for what is in the pic attached. Different engine but, I have had this happen twice. My issue was not consistent but different on different days, but sometimes on start up it would shake and almost die.

Really hard to inspect the wires for this problem. Plugs show obvious as in the pic.
-chart-
 

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Pull the codes. Do a search for each code individually using the search box at the top of the TCCA pages. Read as many threads as possible on each code. You will probably find an answer, there is a wealth of information available to you by searching the site.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would replace the wires and replace/inspect the plugs for what is in the pic attached. Different engine but, I have had this happen twice. My issue was not consistent but different on different days, but sometimes on start up it would shake and almost die.

Really hard to inspect the wires for this problem. Plugs show obvious as in the pic.
-chart-
I am going to give the car the full service, plugs, wires all filters and pvc. I just got the car a few months ago and this is the first problem I am having with it.
 

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Rusty, You'll probably be replacing some serviceable parts if you do the "shotgun" approach to car repair. Try to isolate the problem or at least do your replacements one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rusty, You'll probably be replacing some serviceable parts if you do the "shotgun" approach to car repair. Try to isolate the problem or at least do your replacements one at a time.

The car has over 80,000 on it and if the wires are original I am going to change them all, plugs too. Nothing serviceable in those things with 80k on them.
I am going to change them one at a time to see what the problem was. But those parts need to be changed.
 

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The car has over 80,000 on it and if the wires are original I am going to change them all, plugs too. Nothing serviceable in those things with 80k on them.
I am going to change them one at a time to see what the problem was. But those parts need to be changed.
If your car is anything like mine was (same mileage when I did a plug job), the plugs will be worn but fine. The wires/boots may be a different story. Check for carbon tracking in the boots, and check for continuity with a multimeter. If the resistance is good (between 3k and 18K ohms depending on length), you can reuse them. The factory wires can usually last through two sets of plugs, honestly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If your car is anything like mine was (same mileage when I did a plug job), the plugs will be worn but fine. The wires/boots may be a different story. Check for carbon tracking in the boots, and check for continuity with a multimeter. If the resistance is good (between 3k and 18K ohms depending on length), you can reuse them. The factory wires can usually last through two sets of plugs, honestly.

I honestly don't think it is a big problem because it comes and goes. I think it mey be injectors/plugs or wires. If it was a problem it would be there all the time.
 

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I honestly don't think it is a big problem because it comes and goes. I think it mey be injectors/plugs or wires. If it was a problem it would be there all the time.
Ford tec told me, if you have plug wire arcing, it will only happen on the back bank. #1,2,3. Reason, reversed polarity spark if you have coil pack. My first round was #2 #3, my second round was #1. Had a similar feel on the Lin Cont and found a loose plug. Behaves the same as my Sable with carbon tracked wires. Lin COP so had to switch out COP with JY ones while I cleaned and dryed the OEM. Loose plug OEM install.

-chart-
 

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I honestly don't think it is a big problem because it comes and goes. I think it mey be injectors/plugs or wires. If it was a problem it would be there all the time.
May not be a big problem now, but misfire left as-is will most likely become one. I stand by my earlier post, takes a few seconds to jumper the OBD connector and see what codes flash on your dash. Beats shotgunning parts without any diagnosis...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
May not be a big problem now, but misfire left as-is will most likely become one. I stand by my earlier post, takes a few seconds to jumper the OBD connector and see what codes flash on your dash. Beats shotgunning parts without any diagnosis...

My original post said that I had a code for a cylinder misfire. P0301.
 

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A few years ago I bought my '98 Vulcan, I overhauled the transaxle and replaced the plugs which were worn.
After driving it for about a year it started to code 301. Replaced the wires which were in spec and it still would occasionally code 301. Replaced the coil pack which was in spec, no cracks and the problem was solved. I also replaced the upstream 02 sensors at this time, which improved mileage and response.
 

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My original post said that I had a code for a cylinder misfire. P0301.
Did not see the P0301 in the original post. That should help you narrow it down. Might try spraying a fine water mist from a bottle around that wire and coil pack in a dark area if you can catch it during the misfire. Also follow chartmaker's advice for inspecting that cylinder's plug. If you are set on replacing all of the items you mentioned, may as well throw the coil pack into the mix also.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did not see the P0301 in the original post. That should help you narrow it down. Might try spraying a fine water mist from a bottle around that wire and coil pack in a dark area if you can catch it during the misfire. Also follow chartmaker's advice for inspecting that cylinder's plug. If you are set on replacing all of the items you mentioned, may as well throw the coil pack into the mix also.


Usually when I buy a used car I will give it a tune up, change the oil and go thru the brakes and filters and change what is needed. That way I know those parts are new.

Started the car up yesterday after work, let it warm up for about 10 minutes and then drove off. No miss and the car ran great. I hate intermittent problems. It might have been because of the humidity the last few days.
 

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Did not see the P0301 in the original post. That should help you narrow it down. Might try spraying a fine water mist from a bottle around that wire and coil pack in a dark area if you can catch it during the misfire. Also follow chartmaker's advice for inspecting that cylinder's plug. If you are set on replacing all of the items you mentioned, may as well throw the coil pack into the mix also.
Good call.
Ignition wires/coil and such are worse in damp weather. They rarely if ever get better by themselves. Rear bank on coil pack cars will be the bad one due to reverse polarity spark.
Back in the day" (me) most knew correct polarity was critical. Cars, trucks, farm equpment some pos ground, some neg ground. Get the wrong coil and it was a formula for pain.

And sidebar: you can switch polarity on generator cars easily. But then the coil is backwards and the ignition is bad. Back in 1956 cars nearly all went to neg ground for radios. :lol2:

So, coil pack cars defy mother nature by boosting the volts and using double plat plugs. You think you can win this one but you just "think".

I have 3 cars with coilpacks. :angry:

-chart-
 
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