[CameronWilliams]

I have an ‘06 Taurus. Car has 140k miles. 30k put on in 1yr. Got the car running with 108k miles last yr. Got it from my cousin, it sat for years because of a leaking trans. I got it and had to replace the fuel tank (due to horrible gas), fuel filter, fuel pump (3 times - aftermarket crap- then bought a good one instead of being a cheap A!), injectors, plugs, wires, coil pack, and power steering pump. I had a misfire code a while back due to a vacuum hose touching the exhaust after I replaced the injectors, oops. No more codes after that. But, the car at idle is a little rough, not steady rough just a couple hick ups every so often. Nothing major but it I feel like it shouldn’t do that. Now, when I’m on the highway and if I’m passing someone or go to the express lane, if I go over 3000 rpms for longer than 10sec the check light flashes and the ac cuts off (normal under high load I believe?) If I lower the rpms quick enough, the light goes off, if not it stays on For a day and then it’ll go off again until I go above 3000. I checked the code when it was on and it’s saying cylinder 2 misfire. I’m thinking it has nothing to do with the cylinder, checked compression and it’s good. I replaced the cam sync because the symptoms for a bad one are misfire at 3500rpm. Got excited like wow it’s never been that dead on with symptoms. But, it persists. I was thinking maybe i didn’t get the cam sync in perfect, maybe a tooth off? But idk if that would be extremely noticeable on timing. It runs the same as before. It will occasionally die at idle. Like maybe 1-2 times in a month and it’s when I’m sitting in my car with ac on in 100 degree heat. Not like stopping at a light or stop sign, I have to be idling for a while and its usually after a lot of driving. So, I don’t understand that one. It’s also a little hesitant to start, probably need a new starter.

 

[Hornswaggle]

I know you said you replaced the plugs, wires, and coil but don't let that rule out an ignition problem on cyl#2. You could try swapping plugs/wires with another cylinder and see what happens. If you still get a misfire on #2 then you could have a bad coil (even though it's new). With your description of rough idle you could also have a vacuum leak at that cylinder. While it's idling try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake area of that cylinder. If you notice a change in idle sound or rpm you've found it. If you don't notice any change in sound or rpm that doesn't mean there isn't a vacuum leak it just means you haven't found it yet

 

[CameronWilliams]

Does anyone know what this vacuum line is called?

 

[Jeff K]

What type / brand plugs, wires, coil pack? Use ONLY the specified Motorcraft plugs or their NGK equivalent. For coil pack, use only the Motorcraft or BWD equivalent. Use only Motorcraft plug wires also.

 

[Shane73]

I have an ‘06 Taurus. Car has 140k miles. 30k put on in 1yr. Got the car running with 108k miles last yr. Got it from my cousin, it sat for years because of a leaking trans. I got it and had to replace the fuel tank (due to horrible gas), fuel filter, fuel pump (3 times - aftermarket crap- then bought a good one instead of being a cheap A!), injectors, plugs, wires, coil pack, and power steering pump. I had a misfire code a while back due to a vacuum hose touching the exhaust after I replaced the injectors, oops. No more codes after that. But, the car at idle is a little rough, not steady rough just a couple hick ups every so often. Nothing major but it I feel like it shouldn’t do that. Now, when I’m on the highway and if I’m passing someone or go to the express lane, if I go over 3000 rpms for longer than 10sec the check light flashes and the ac cuts off (normal under high load I believe?) If I lower the rpms quick enough, the light goes off, if not it stays on For a day and then it’ll go off again until I go above 3000. I checked the code when it was on and it’s saying cylinder 2 misfire. I’m thinking it has nothing to do with the cylinder, checked compression and it’s good. I replaced the cam sync because the symptoms for a bad one are misfire at 3500rpm. Got excited like wow it’s never been that dead on with symptoms. But, it persists. I was thinking maybe i didn’t get the cam sync in perfect, maybe a tooth off? But idk if that would be extremely noticeable on timing. It runs the same as before. It will occasionally die at idle. Like maybe 1-2 times in a month and it’s when I’m sitting in my car with ac on in 100 degree heat. Not like stopping at a light or stop sign, I have to be idling for a while and its usually after a lot of driving. So, I don’t understand that one. It’s also a little hesitant to start, probably need a new starter.

 

[Shane73]

It's the mass airflow censer im prety sure my car did same trouble coarse said random missfirer from vacuums leak I think it p71 code it said and would not have past 3500 rpm i think it was

 

[Shane73]

Try that first I bout new coil packs and almonds stuff but it mass flow censer

 

[Shane73]

It would just start geting jerky at 3500 rpm and no higher

 

[Shane73]

I have an ‘06 Taurus. Car has 140k miles. 30k put on in 1yr. Got the car running with 108k miles last yr. Got it from my cousin, it sat for years because of a leaking trans. I got it and had to replace the fuel tank (due to horrible gas), fuel filter, fuel pump (3 times - aftermarket crap- then bought a good one instead of being a cheap A!), injectors, plugs, wires, coil pack, and power steering pump. I had a misfire code a while back due to a vacuum hose touching the exhaust after I replaced the injectors, oops. No more codes after that. But, the car at idle is a little rough, not steady rough just a couple hick ups every so often. Nothing major but it I feel like it shouldn’t do that. Now, when I’m on the highway and if I’m passing someone or go to the express lane, if I go over 3000 rpms for longer than 10sec the check light flashes and the ac cuts off (normal under high load I believe?) If I lower the rpms quick enough, the light goes off, if not it stays on For a day and then it’ll go off again until I go above 3000. I checked the code when it was on and it’s saying cylinder 2 misfire. I’m thinking it has nothing to do with the cylinder, checked compression and it’s good. I replaced the cam sync because the symptoms for a bad one are misfire at 3500rpm. Got excited like wow it’s never been that dead on with symptoms. But, it persists. I was thinking maybe i didn’t get the cam sync in perfect, maybe a tooth off? But idk if that would be extremely noticeable on timing. It runs the same as before. It will occasionally die at idle. Like maybe 1-2 times in a month and it’s when I’m sitting in my car with ac on in 100 degree heat. Not like stopping at a light or stop sign, I have to be idling for a while and its usually after a lot of driving. So, I don’t understand that one. It’s also a little hesitant to start, probably need a new starter.