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I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that I've ordered a microtuner from Alberto at American Motorsport. This will give me access to three custom programs + the stock program. I will have an all out performance program, like I'm running now, an fuel-maximized program to run regular and a fuel maximized program to run premium. This way I can be fuel efficient when I need to be, allowing me to drop down to regular when I really want to be cheap. I'll be sure to do some testing for actual milage difference.

-Dan
 

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Originally posted by dant98@Jun 20 2004, 08:24 AM
I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that I've ordered a microtuner from Alberto at American Motorsport. This will give me access to three custom programs + the stock program. I will have an all out performance program, like I'm running now, an fuel-maximized program to run regular and a fuel maximized program to run premium. This way I can be fuel efficient when I need to be, allowing me to drop down to regular when I really want to be cheap. I'll be sure to do some testing for actual milage difference.

-Dan
That's a great idea, Dan. I'm sure there's a ton of Taurus/Sable owners out there that would love to hear some real-world numbers to justify the price of a chip, including myself. :)
 

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thoes real world number are out there. I have posted my dyno numbers for my microtuner, and i know a few others who have.

Alberto has put out som impressive numbers Dan, hope it works out for you (dont blow up the pcm this time ;) :p j/k)

Brad
 

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Hehe. Hey! Alberto has proven himself to me. I'm already running one of his custom programs he flashed to my PCM last year. The problem is with gas prices and all, I'd like to know I can still drop to a program that's a little more fuel friendly. Alberto and I need to work out a time to get together yet, but I'll let everyone know when we're all squared away.

-Dan
 

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I was very happy with my microtuner and the programs Alberto made for me, haven't had a chance to dyno them yet though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hey Alberto, what does it cost to get a quick dyno run down there at Amazon Racing? It would be interesting to dyno your program.

-Dan
 

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Ordered my microtuner on Friday, should have it by the end of the week hopefully! Can't wait to test it out. :D
 

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Originally posted by dant98@Jun 22 2004, 07:36 AM
hey Alberto, what does it cost to get a quick dyno run down there at Amazon Racing? It would be interesting to dyno your program.

-Dan
I wouldn't do it at Amazon Racing. They use a Mustnag dyno, which will dyno a lot lower than a dynojet. The people whose cars we are woking on this Saturday do not care about numbers, so we are just using the dyno to get a/f anfd timing right.

When people, as yoruself, care abotu numbers, I have another palce I work at that has a dynojet...

Fose those that are not familiar with a Mustang dyno here are some concepts:

Mustang dyno shows 6-7% lower.
Once a car begins moving, there is less resistance at the wheels when you overcome the polar moment of inertia, but the Mustang Dyno keeps applying this force acting against you. If you were on a Dynojet you would only have to overcome the polar moment of inertia.
The Mustang Dyno MD250 dyno is a true loading dyno, because it uses an inertia weight as well as an eddy current motor that is attached to the rollers. This eddy current motor creates a drag on the shaft by way of electricity that causes a magnetic field to try and overcome the torque going through the roller shafts. This current is controlled by software that is always trying to simulate load as if the car is driving in real world conditions. The real benefit from the loading dyno is the ability to maintain a load that allows a tuner to properly go through a fuel map or ignition map and tune the chip for optimum horsepower and torque. It has the ability to also simulate the IM240 emissions test as required in some states. It can check 1/4 mile times as well as times for 0-60 MPH and 0-100 MPH. It can also be used for road testing and simulation for drivability problems. As a result of the loading capability, the dyno numbers from a mustang dyno will come out lower than the inertia (dynojet) dyno.
The Dynojet 248C is actually an accelerometer whereby it uses a 3000-3200 pound drum that is used to create an inertia load on the vehicle being tested. The vehicle's horsepower (HP) and torque try to overcome the weight/inertia of the drum to accelerate it. As a result the software and electronics try to measure the horsepower and torque that the vehicle is developing to overcome the drum's weight and inertia. The resulting horsepower and torque will be higher than a true loading dyno because once the drum starts rolling not as much power is needed to keep it going. Example -- When pushing a car on a flat road, once the car starts moving not as much power (effort) is needed to keep it going. The software does not ask for vehicle weight or anything like horsepower needed to maintain 50 MPH (a number that is actually put out by E.P.A. and N.H.T.S.A.).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, that's neat. I didn't even know there were different types of dyno's (well I knew different brands, but not different approaches). I've heard that some dyno's have a problem with FWD vehicles because the securing mechanisms are usually built for RWD vehicles and don't secure the car right. I think our one guy who is still running a SuperCharger on his Gen 2 had problems when he dynotested because of this.

So how much is a dyno test session at the place you'd reccomend for numbers. Also, if I was a some point interested in custom tuning while on the dyno, we would use Amazon Racing because it would show more accurate information about how the car is actually working?

Dan
 

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The straps and stuff are drilled into the groudn, so it depends on the dyno. The ones I work at are good for even AWD cars b/c of the waytehy have their straps set up.

3 pulls at the place for numbers is like $100 with a/f or I htink 75 w/o it.

If you wanted tuning, it owuld be $150-200 for total dynotime plus whatever I charge you, which would not be much since I have worked on your car before. We can use whichever...it will not really matter for your car. The Mustang dyno is usually better b/c you can load it up. What this means is that often times, when one works on a car, sincethefre is no real load on it, it does not knock on the dyno, and then does knock on the street , when there is more load. One then has to have to back it out some. This is usually avoided with a Mustang dyno. However, because I have worked on so many of tehse, I know how much timing to put in anyway, so it will not really make a difference. I will just really be watching a/f.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sweet, but I would gather that without sugnificant other modifications, there isn't much to be gained for custom dyno of my car?

-Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Man. Guess I'm going to have to sell my soul for 10G to get a custom turbo setup installed :lol: Yeah Right! Though probably some kind of custom supercharger setup wouldn't be too unrealistic someday. Still I'm sure that's at least 3 - 5K. (probably closer to 5). Oh well.

-Dan
 

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Cheaper if you fab stuff up yourself. Before there was a supercharger kit for my car, I purchased one for $1500 (pre-owned, but never used) and it cost me nowhere near that much to get it all up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
How much did you have to have made? I think I'd end up having to at least get a custom intake manifold if I went with a roots style blower. Check out my thread in the performance forums:

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6801

We'll talk about it more on Saturday. I'm not quite ready to start this, but if it seems very doable, I need to get a number to shoot for, so I know how much I need to save to get the project rolling.

-Dan
 

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Do a centrifugal. Making a custom lower or cuotm plate for the lwoer is really, really hard.

You can fab up everything you need yourself for the centrifugal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Including Jackshaft? Or are you thinking trying to cram it onto the passanger side of the car and running the intake over?

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6606

From an asthetics standpoint, I'd much rather use a centrifigul No need to modify the hood and you get a nice sleeper out of the deal. I'm just not sure how good an idea it would be.

-Dan
 

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The belts are on the passenger side and the TB and intake are on the driver's side. From what I've seen, people mount a braket on the passenger side to run the SC pulley on the serpentine belt and then something that looks a little like a driveshaft (the jackshaft) goes from the passenger side to the driver's side and runs the SC. They mount the SC on the driver's side because you can get a decent amount of room by relocating the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ALberto, we'll take a look saturday. From the sounds of it, there may be folks there at the shop that would have some input. We know we only want to run around 6 PSI boost since it's an aluminum block not designed to for FI apps. It's just a matter of figuring out the cheapest way to do it.

-Dan
 
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