Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...I'm here for my girlfriend, since she dosn't have 'net access, but drives a '95 Taurus Wagon (not sure what trim level...has the 3.8 V6 in it though). She's gone through a number of wagons over the years, and over the weekend she sold off the 2 parts cars that were in her yard...but before they went, she pulled the aftermarket stereo that had been installed by her son (unfortunately, he's not around to help with a reinstall). To make life worse, the person who pulled the stereo did a half-ass job of it, and tangled the hell out of everything. So, my questions here are:

1) What do I need to do to get power to the full system (I've done a simple install in my '03 Focus ZX3, but this is a full on amp/sub system)?

2) Are there any nasty surprises waiting for the unwary when installing a head unit on this car? She mentioned something about a connection that, if left alone, will kill the car...security of some sort?

I can get some pics later of the components, what wiring there is, etc...any help would be appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I wouldn't touch it myself...sounds like someone half a$$ed alot of the work and you will spend a good amount of time fixing mistakes. If you really feel it nessecary though...

I would use a wiring harness from Wal-Mart, Best-Buy, HH Gregg or online. Wire everything up and test. Check voltages and reading of all wires. See what needs help and work on that. Also...I would wire a ground to the body...dont just trust the harness. As far as power...explain. Power to speakers? To HU? To what? If you want to use an amp...I would. Better sound quality and easier to diagnose issues.

#2 I couldn't help with. I fell into my fiances 03 Ford Taurus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
i would not touch it but if you have too then


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NDowWuNw0SW/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_wiring.html
There are three basic wires for the amp power. The main power wire should be run with the proper gauge wire and fused 18 inches or less from the battery to the amp . The remote turn on or switched wire is run from the aftermarket head unit. Or by using a fuse tap to tap in to the radio fuse in the in car fuse panel. And last of the power wires is the ground should try to keep this 3 foot or less and attach it from the amp to the frame or unibody. I would be very careful with these three wires a lot of vehicle fires are cause by not fusing the main power wire.

The last two are rca’s from the head unit or a loc short for line output converter that converts the high power wires of the head unit to low power of the rca’s. last you will have to use a multi meter to find the ohm rating of each voice coil of the subs. so not to fry the amp with to low of a ohm rating this is done by connecting the dmm or digital multi meter to the sub plus on plus minus on minus . set it for omh or ohmega which looks like a upside down horse shoe. Just verify what they are Like 2 or 4 ohms might even be 6 or 8 ohms. Then you got to find out threw research what the ohm rating of the amp is. Probably threw the Companies web site threw e mails with that company etc… I left links for the wire diagrams for the vehicle etc….

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/923.html
1995 Ford Taurus Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+
Light Green/Yellow
Switched 12V+
Yellow/Black
Ground
Black
Illumination
Light Blue/Red
Dimmer
n/a
Antenna Trigger
Orange/Light Blue
Antenna
Left Rear
Front Speakers
6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+)
Orange/Light Green
Left Front (-)
Light Blue/White
Right Front (+)
White/Light Green
Right Front (-)
Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers
5" x 7" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+)
Pink/Light Green
Left Rear (-)
Dark Blue/Orange
Right Rear (+)
Pink/Light Blue
Right Rear (-)
Tan/White

some more resources

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/how_to_install_a_car_amp/how_to_install_a_car_amp.htm
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=ie7&q=how+to+wire+a+car+stereo+amplifier+&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7ACGW_en

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
It is strongly recommended that if your stock harness has not been damaged, that you use the harness adapters as suggested. This make instal much easier, and if you ever have to replace the aftermarket head unit, it is much simpler to do if the stock wiring has not been butchered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
It is strongly recommended that if your stock harness has not been damaged, that you use the harness adapters as suggested. This make instal much easier, and if you ever have to replace the aftermarket head unit, it is much simpler to do if the stock wiring has not been butchered.


ditto
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
It is strongly recommended that if your stock harness has not been damaged, that you use the harness adapters as suggested. This make instal much easier, and if you ever have to replace the aftermarket head unit, it is much simpler to do if the stock wiring has not been butchered.

+1...and it's easier to create a harness for said unit. Easier to make on a bench and plug in than to solder inside the car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
And I'm not just saying that because I'm picky about how I do things. I used to own a Mazda, and the PO put in an aftermarket stereo and butchered the wiring. It was just a cassete deck and the radio didn't work, so I wanted to get a CD player. The old wiring was butchered, and it made it a pain to get installed, especially as they had grounded to a light circuit, which would cause the dash lights to turn off if the radio was on. I ended up having to run new power and ground, and a new accessory wire, and then find the speaker wires by trial and error. In my Aerostar, I used a harness. When my first stereo died (It would not eject discs properly, and when they would finally come out, it would scratch them), all I had to do was unplug the harness adapter, cut the wires, and match the new wires with the new stereo by color, solder the connections, then plug it back in, and all worked. I didn't have to guess at what I had done.

The only reason I had to cut the wires I because I changed brands too, the old stereo was a Clarion, the new one was a Kenwood. I eventually replace the First Kenwood with another that was iPod compatible. Sine it was a Kenwood too, I just had to plug the adapter in, the connectors were the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
And I'm not just saying that because I'm picky about how I do things. I used to own a Mazda, and the PO put in an aftermarket stereo and butchered the wiring. It was just a cassete deck and the radio didn't work, so I wanted to get a CD player. The old wiring was butchered, and it made it a pain to get installed, especially as they had grounded to a light circuit, which would cause the dash lights to turn off if the radio was on. I ended up having to run new power and ground, and a new accessory wire, and then find the speaker wires by trial and error. In my Aerostar, I used a harness. When my first stereo died (It would not eject discs properly, and when they would finally come out, it would scratch them), all I had to do was unplug the harness adapter, cut the wires, and match the new wires with the new stereo by color, solder the connections, then plug it back in, and all worked. I didn't have to guess at what I had done.

The only reason I had to cut the wires I because I changed brands too, the old stereo was a Clarion, the new one was a Kenwood. I eventually replace the First Kenwood with another that was iPod compatible. Sine it was a Kenwood too, I just had to plug the adapter in, the connectors were the same.
Problem I had with the Miata track cars I had.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
480 Posts
You should be able to buy an adapter that will plug into your old wiring harness (if it is not damaged) and then you will need to splice the new wire plug for the new stereo into the old adapted. for your amp you will need a least 8 gauge coated wire for your power wire, a skinny memory wire and a pair of the rca cables that plug into the back of your stereo if it has pre-amp outlets and into your amp, then run your positive wire from your sub in to the amp and the negative wire from your sub into you amp and you should be good to go.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
You should be able to buy an adapter that will plug into your old wiring harness (if it is not damaged) and then you will need to splice the new wire plug for the new stereo into the old adapted. for your amp you will need a least 8 gauge coated wire for your power wire, a skinny memory wire and a pair of the rca cables that plug into the back of your stereo if it has pre-amp outlets and into your amp, then run your positive wire from your sub in to the amp and the negative wire from your sub into you amp and you should be good to go.

i try never to use 8 gauge most of the time it is to small to use. power a 30-60 amp set up15-20 foot away. now if it is a 5-25 amp set up. i may use it to run a small distro block for a fuel pump and a electric water pump and so on i may. most of those will use 10 gauge wire off the distro usally it is to small for amps of any good size and long runs to trunks.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top