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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay i did not listen to you guys and yes i am an idiot.... For those who have not read the "Some Help" fourms post... I had an Oil Light on, and on my way to driving to my uncles shop my Engine locked.

So now i need to look for a New Engine, i need some infomation on whats the futherest year i can go with the same engine or engine block so i can possible have the newest engine possible.

I had... :(

2002 Ford Taurus SE
V6 3.0L OHV (Not sure if FlueFlex or Gasoline... but in the owner manuel it says Vulcan Engine)

If the intake maifold or exhuast manifold is different thats okay, my machnaic said we can still use the one i have now, he just needs the Engine Block or Engine..

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!! i really need my car back, and before you guys tell me to get a new car, all i am payin for is the engine and parts, all the labor is free becuz its gonna be me and my uncle working on it...

Ohh and is it possible to drop the engine without droping the tranmission and everything else ?? From the looks of it it seems that we need to bring down everything it looks like a nightmare...
 

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You can actually lift the engine out if you remove the hood first. (Oversimplification, but you get the idea.)

As far as what year range, you can probably go from 2000 up to 2007 Taurus/Sable because it is OBD-II and the same generation. (I would still make sure all of the accessories match up between the two engines. If they don't just take the ones off of yours and put them on the new one.)

As far as free labor from your uncle goes, you may still want to offer cash or do something nice in return. People don't often like their help being taken for granted even if it is an act of charity.
 

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There's tons of '06-'07 engines out there, as many rental cars have been totaled out. Those will probably have very low miles, I've seen some on car-parts.com that had less than 20k on the miles, sometimes going for as little as $500 each. The barter system is great! Maybe your uncle has house/yard work, or other work around that you can do for him in exchange.
 

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Drop the engine transmission and cradle as an assembly. And then swap out the engine. Much, much easier and you can check out alot of other things while you have it out. Yes, it can be pulled out the top but it is a lot harder. Also don't beat yourself up too much on locking up the engine. It was probalbly shot anyway.

Ed
 

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You need to cob up a support for the transaxle to pull the engine out the top. Easier to lower the whole drivetrain out the bottom. And as mentioned, you can check out a lot of things that are otherwise hard to access (steering rack, etc.)
Good luck, and take good care of your Uncle/Mechanic.
 

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'MT5 Plus' Wagon Builder
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The motor is locked up so the torque converter bolts cannot be removed without dropping the subframe to pull motor and torque converter out as one unit. Once the motor is removed, then the torque converter can be removed and slid back into the transaxle.
 

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The motor is locked up so the torque converter bolts cannot be removed without dropping the subframe to pull motor and torque converter out as one unit. Once the motor is removed, then the torque converter can be removed and slid back into the transaxle.
There is a post on here with pics where a Member pulled out either the engine or transaxle by itself, I can't remember which part it was. He rigged up a 4x4 timber and chains to hold the other half up during the job. It appeared to be a lot more work than going the conventional route, but you can't tell a Taurus Club member it can't be done...
 

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There is a post on here with pics where a Member pulled out either the engine or transaxle by itself, I can't remember which part it was. He rigged up a 4x4 timber and chains to hold the other half up during the job. It appeared to be a lot more work than going the conventional route, but you can't tell a Taurus Club member it can't be done...
Anything can be done if one has enough time and money.

O2, go to your local pick and pull and see if they will let you remove an engine. This way you can experiment and have the additional peace of mind knowing the mileage, what was hit? Or not. Oil light, huh? and rent or get a hoist. Good luck and happy new year.
.
 

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The motor is locked up so the torque converter bolts cannot be removed without dropping the subframe to pull motor and torque converter out as one unit. Once the motor is removed, then the torque converter can be removed and slid back into the transaxle.
When my engine locked, I pulled it out the top (don't do it that way). We had to drop the oil pan, loosen all the main bolts, and as many rod bolts as we could reach to get the crank to spin. Not a fun place to be.
 

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Most (all?) opinions here say it's easier to remove the engine and trans out the bottom. I pulled the trans out the bottom of mine and it wasn't that bad. Just take your time. I used the engine support bar from Harbor Freight-got it for $50 on sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the help guys, yup its gonna be a mission.. My uncles other mechanic (he owns his own shop, and only has one guy under him) his on vaction. and since i know very very little on this, we gotta wait until Jan 17 when he comes back.

But the wait is not the problem, ill have more money to buy the best possible engine, and i cant rush my uncle at all... just gotta wait it out and hope for the best. It seems like its gonna be a hell of a ride this way out.

With then engine locked, can i check my CPS or synrco shaft to see if that was the problem...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And whats the difference between a
3.0L VIN U (8th digit, OHV, Vulcan, gasoline)
3.0L VIN 2 (8th digit, OHV, Vulcan, flex fuel)
 

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Cake monster
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Thanks for all the help guys, yup its gonna be a mission.. My uncles other mechanic (he owns his own shop, and only has one guy under him) his on vaction. and since i know very very little on this, we gotta wait until Jan 17 when he comes back.

But the wait is not the problem, ill have more money to buy the best possible engine, and i cant rush my uncle at all... just gotta wait it out and hope for the best. It seems like its gonna be a hell of a ride this way out.

With then engine locked, can i check my CPS or synrco shaft to see if that was the problem...?
I'm really surprised you haven't pulled the CPS yet. I would, just to see if it sheared. It would be really obvious, I have one that did it.
 

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I do agree that dropping the subframe with the engine and trans bolted together is easier than pulling the engine out from the top.

You just need some good dollies to roll the subframe around on, and a good hoist to lift the body off of the engine once you drop it.
 

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Be sure to use a transmission jack, that transaxle may look aluminum but it is HEAVY.

Not sure how the budget is for additional parts, check the condition of your
front end suspension parts, easy to r/r them with the cradle off the car.

regards
 

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Nice transmission jack and support bar! No pulling on the engine with ratchet straps to get it straight in the car...
 
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