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Well, acording to my understanding you messed up the MAF...

Someone correct me if im wrong...

The MAF has a very specifit area and uses that to calculate the mass of air floing through it. If you open it up or get a larger maf, the calculation is wrong and as a result, your engine will not run right (without a properly programed chip).

I know this information is true of getting a larger MAF, and i assume it is true when you open up the inside.

The other reason i came up with the above assumption is becase the maf in the picture is diffrent than your maf. The maf above has the outles at the top, just like the inlet. the stock taurus maf has the outlet at the bottom and the inlet at the top. So by removing the center section, the outlet is now facing down instead of twards the TB. That could be causing the problem.

If im wrong, then you probbaly have a bad connection or may have a dirty maf sensor (use contact cleaner or compressed air)

Goodluck

Brad
 

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I did this mod as well,
i do notice a bit more top end torque, BUT. i now have a hesitation at the line.
when i punch it from a dead stop, the engine dies down a bit then picks up..
we might should take the MAF off and spray down with brake cleaner.
DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR ITSELF.
just spray and let dry

i think ill try that here soon.
 

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I seem to remember a few heated threads on this a while back. I believe the general consensus was that the mod was too risky to try and resulted in a lot of undesirable effects for most people.

On a side note, I cleaned my MAF a few days ago and the butt dyno noticed some improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so obviously i'll be replacing my MAF with one from a junkyard. I have the vulcan engine, and i know that MAf's from different engines won't swap without programming. so will any MAF from another OHV engine work, or do i have to keep it within the generation?
 

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I swapped my '93's MAF with a late Generation 1 (1991) unit with no ill effects.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was wondering, i'm going to be building myself another intake system and i was curious as too, if i could mount the MAF right up against the throttle body? and second would it be alright if i polished the insides of the throttle body as well as the MAF without messing up my engine?
 

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it's all in the sample tubes. If you use a ford 80mm maf off a say a mark8 then you have to get a chip to make it work right. But companies like pro-m and c&l make bolt on maf's that need no chips or tunning and they work perfectly, atleast they do in sho's. I'd call one of those 2 companies up and ask them what they think. Also you don't need a huge maf on a vulcan since the engine won't ever use enough air say a 70mm or bigger maf flows.
 

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You guys are correct. I tried this mod a long time ago and it does cause an off the line bog and also causes a stumbling idle sometimes. It's because of the air sample tube you removed. That is there to keep the idle smooth. It DOES help the top end but it just causes too many problems to be worth it if you ask me. The best way I can say to mod the sensor without damaging it would be to just take a air dremel and polish and port the hell out of it without adding any holes or removing the sample tube.
 
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