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Hello everyone,

My name is Tom and I'm the new owner of a 98 Vulcan base model with 222,000 on the ticker.

It runs strong and smooth but has an intermittent knock from the lower end and a low oil pressure light at hot idle. I was happily surpised to see that the light flickers in concert with the knock...so that leads me to believe that there is ONE bearing that has either cracked or is otherwise shot.

I just ordered a rod bearing kit, oil pump and oil pan seal and will be swapping them in this weekend.

I'm asking for those experienced with NON-SHO rod bearing swaps to chime in.

I've had a lot of success with rod bearing swaps on SHOs and I'm wondering if I can expect the crank to be OK. I know it's not a forged crank like the SHO, so it's probably not going to be as pretty.

I'm sort of expecting there to be SOME grooves in the crank but hoping that it won't be "trash". I figure if it's running now...new bearings and a pump can't hurt.

I'll be "breaking in" the new bearings just like I would with new cam so that the grooves in the crank will have a chance to "bed" themselves in the bearings.

Thanks..
 

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QUOTE (182rev2sev @ Jun 19 2009, 11:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733552
Hello everyone,

My name is Tom and I'm the new owner of a 98 Vulcan base model with 222,000 on the ticker.

It runs strong and smooth but has an intermittent knock from the lower end and a low oil pressure light at hot idle. I was happily surpised to see that the light flickers in concert with the knock...so that leads me to believe that there is ONE bearing that has either cracked or is otherwise shot.

I just ordered a rod bearing kit, oil pump and oil pan seal and will be swapping them in this weekend.

I'm asking for those experienced with NON-SHO rod bearing swaps to chime in.

I've had a lot of success with rod bearing swaps on SHOs and I'm wondering if I can expect the crank to be OK. I know it's not a forged crank like the SHO, so it's probably not going to be as pretty.

I'm sort of expecting there to be SOME grooves in the crank but hoping that it won't be "trash". I figure if it's running now...new bearings and a pump can't hurt.

I'll be "breaking in" the new bearings just like I would with new cam so that the grooves in the crank will have a chance to "bed" themselves in the bearings.

Thanks..[/b]
Why would you order a bearing kit without having the crank out first to see what size you really need?
I assume you ordered std bearings. But it could be other than that. If the crank is not smooth its pissing in the wind
putting new bearings on it without machine work.

The quick way would have been to order a crank kit off of ebay or such with a ground crank and matched bearings.
vulcan engines used are not that expensive either.

By the time you pay for individual machine work, that route might cost less.
I can buy a new Vulcan head on ebay cheaper than what the local machine shop wants to go through one properly.
My 93 has 240K on it. Still has good oil pressure. but it leaks out of the valve covers and pan gasket.
Its not far from taurus heaven though....

bob

.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
QUOTE (soundu @ Jun 19 2009, 01:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733556
QUOTE (182rev2sev @ Jun 19 2009, 11:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733552
Hello everyone,

My name is Tom and I'm the new owner of a 98 Vulcan base model with 222,000 on the ticker.

It runs strong and smooth but has an intermittent knock from the lower end and a low oil pressure light at hot idle. I was happily surpised to see that the light flickers in concert with the knock...so that leads me to believe that there is ONE bearing that has either cracked or is otherwise shot.

I just ordered a rod bearing kit, oil pump and oil pan seal and will be swapping them in this weekend.

I'm asking for those experienced with NON-SHO rod bearing swaps to chime in.

I've had a lot of success with rod bearing swaps on SHOs and I'm wondering if I can expect the crank to be OK. I know it's not a forged crank like the SHO, so it's probably not going to be as pretty.

I'm sort of expecting there to be SOME grooves in the crank but hoping that it won't be "trash". I figure if it's running now...new bearings and a pump can't hurt.

I'll be "breaking in" the new bearings just like I would with new cam so that the grooves in the crank will have a chance to "bed" themselves in the bearings.

Thanks..[/b]
Why would you order a bearing kit without having the crank out first to see what size you really need?
I assume you ordered std bearings. But it could be other than that. If the crank is not smooth its pissing in the wind
putting new bearings on it without machine work.

The quick way would have been to order a crank kit off of ebay or such with a ground crank and matched bearings.
vulcan engines used are not that expensive either.

By the time you pay for individual machine work, that route might cost less.
I can buy a new Vulcan head on ebay cheaper than what the local machine shop wants to go through one properly.
My 93 has 240K on it. Still has good oil pressure. but it leaks out of the valve covers and pan gasket.
Its not far from taurus heaven though....

bob

.
[/b][/quote]

I'm doing this "in car". The crank will not be removed, let alone machined so I won't have to pull the trans... If the bearings end up the wrong size, I'll exchange them for the correct size.

Do you have any experience swapping rod bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
QUOTE (rudedog @ Jun 19 2009, 12:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733568
I did it in-car years ago on an 86LX. My sister overheated it and pulled into the drive with a fairly severe knock. After a bunch of reading and cunsult with the 'rents. It was decided to "try" just replacing the bearings. I used a set of std bearings and some emery cloth to "refinish" the journal. Never had a problem after that. Matter of fact, that car had just under 200,000 miles on it when the trans pooped out and was towed to a local trans shop and stolen shortly after.[/b]
Bingo!

That's my plan. I don't have a severe knock...and I don't think it's been overheated.

I'll be happy to take pics along the way and write up the procedure as a contribution to this site.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Apparently, my Blackberry can't focus at 18" but here's the picture of the pickup tube...completely clogged with Red Shop Rag fibers, silicon gasket maker, and a little bearing material.



After scraping it all out, here 'tis



If anyone is thinking of using those red shop rags to clean parts...make sure to rinse them off before installing them in an engine. This stuff is like hair in the bath tub drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The crank looked wonderful. Not a scratch. 2 of the bearings were very wiped, though.

The new bearings are in and the caps are torqued to 26 FT LBS.

I'm still waiting for the oil pump (though I could probably re-use the original) and the oil pan gasket.

If they don't come tomorrow, I'll be pulling the exhaust manifolds so I can replace the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the oil pump today. It's in and now all I need to do is finish drilling out the manifold flanges. I was able to get 3 of the studs replaced this evening...one more to go. Then it's button up time and we'll see if I saved this vulcan.
 

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If I were you, I would take a close look at the Synchroshaft, and CPS (camshaft position sensor).

They have a useful service life of about 100K miles. The synchroshaft drives the a flag that operates the CPS, AND THE OIL PUMP. When the synchroshaft is not replaced on time, the oil pump is not driven properly, and bearing failure is a result of the lubrication failure that occurs.

When the synchroshaft needs replacement, it will chirp like a bad pulley bearing. Later, it will stop chirping, and the oil pump will not operate at full pressure, and you get engine damage.

At 220K miles, either the synchroshaft has been resently replaced, or it is overdue for replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (gohim @ Jun 27 2009, 03:52 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=735569
If I were you, I would take a close look at the Synchroshaft, and CPS (camshaft position sensor).

They have a useful service life of about 100K miles. The synchroshaft drives the a flag that operates the CPS, AND THE OIL PUMP. When the synchroshaft is not replaced on time, the oil pump is not driven properly, and bearing failure is a result of the lubrication failure that occurs.

When the synchroshaft needs replacement, it will chirp like a bad pulley bearing. Later, it will stop chirping, and the oil pump will not operate at full pressure, and you get engine damage.

At 220K miles, either the synchroshaft has been resently replaced, or it is overdue for replacement.[/b]

Got it buttoned back up and it sounds a lot better. The oil pressure light still comes on after the engine is good and warm, though.

The RPM in which it turns off has dropped a lot. So the rod bearings helped quite a bit. I went ahead and ordered the main bearings and will be swapping those out, too. Considering how wiped and damaged the rod bearings were, I would not be surprised if the mains are damaged, also. I think it will be quite a bit easier this time around, since I was just in there.

I'm used to working over small blocks (289,302,351W) and SHO engines, where the oil pump is simply driven by the distrubutor or the crank snout, respectively so I guess it's time to figure out where else the pressure could be going.

Thanks for the tip on the synchroshaft...I'll be looking into that, directly.
 

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Regarding the synchroshaft:

Can you explain this in a little bit more depth, please? I don't understand how it can NOT drive the oil pump properly. It's gear driven, so logic tells me that it doesn't matter how warm the engine is.

I have no problem replacing it...it's like $35...I just have a thirst for a complete understanding of how it's wear affects hot oil pressure.

Do the teeth on the gear wear down causing the pump to cavitate? Or does excessive shaft end play contribute to the oil pump "chattering".
 

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Discussion Starter #13
QUOTE (182rev2sev @ Jun 28 2009, 05:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=735721
Regarding the synchroshaft:

Can you explain this in a little bit more depth, please? I don't understand how it can NOT drive the oil pump properly. It's gear driven, so logic tells me that it doesn't matter how warm the engine is.

I have no problem replacing it...it's like $35...I just have a thirst for a complete understanding of how it's wear affects hot oil pressure.

Do the teeth on the gear wear down causing the pump to cavitate? Or does excessive shaft end play contribute to the oil pump "chattering".[/b]

Nevermind...just did some research. Will be buying Motorcraft part number: F8DZ12A362AA
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since my last post, I installed a new synchroshaft. That didn't help so I ordered main bearings. The number 4 main bearing was hammered. It was definately the cause of the low pressure and the knock.

The bearings arrived today (yesterday, actually) and I didn't get started on it until about 10:30. I just finished up and it appears as though this vulcan will live.

I'll let y'all know after I've driven it but I got it good and warm and then put it in gear on the jack stands...Idle dropped to about 700 and no oil light. Not a flicker. The top end sounds a lot better too...
 

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It's knocking and throwing the oil light again.

Oh well...it was only a $100 or so for the bearings...I'll pull the synchroshaft and oil pump before turning in the core if I decide to swap another engine in there.
 
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