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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of changing the left front hub assembly on my 2002 Sable.

I have removed the lower ball joint nut and am trying to remove the lower ball joint stud from the lower control arm. I've tried jacking up the steering knuckle by putting a hydraulic jack and a block of wood under two of the wheel studs, lifting the knuckle and striking the LCA with a hammer. No luck. :angry:

I have also put the hydraulic jack under the ball joint stud, putting pressure on the stud and striking the LCA with the hammer. No luck. :angry:

My tie rod puller won't grab hold of the LCA, so . . . . Do I need a special tool to remove this rascal? :unsure:
 

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I took my pickle fork with a 4 foot cheater (my jack handle) then stood and bounced my 215 lbs on the end of the jack handle until it popped loose. I had to do this on both sides. The bad is that it will probably tear the boot on the ball joint. I didn't care since I was replacing the ball joints anyway. Make sure you are bracing yourself so that when it breaks free you don't hurt yourself
 

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I had to spray it with penetrating oil, heat the control arm with a propane torch, and then use a tie rod end remover to get it off. What a pain! The heat ruined the boot, but I was changing it anyway.
 

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Search youtube channel - realfixesrealfast. Great how-to videos. Esp. lower ball joint and taurus wheel bearing videos. Many others too.
 

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I ended up bending a tie rod end separator on the first one. That's the one I heated. The second came right apart-no issues.
 

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There is an old trick that dates way back that I have used in this situation with success. I was taught it by an old Volkswagen mechanic....The Physics is to set up elliptical vibrations of the round hole that the stud goes through. Get two large (several lbs each) hammers or small, short-handled sledges. I have a pair of Swedish drill hammers that work perfectly. Hold one hammer against one side of the actual part where the stud goes through and bang the opposite side with the other hammer. After a few good whaps, the stud always pops out. I did this on the ball joints on my 2002 Taurus when I replaced the springs. If you can't get the hammer to cleanly hit the side of the actual part where the stud goes into, you can use a solid steel block against it as an "extender." The idea is to make the stud hole minutely vibrate in an elliptical shape. Of course, you need three hands with an "extender."
 

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Its getting that time of the year when the heater core questions pop up. Youtube channel realfixesrealfast has an excellent taurus heater core shortcut video. Check it out.
 

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I could always use another tool. ;) What is it called and who carries it?

Thanks for the info guys . . . ..

I got mine at a store called Princess auto in Canada. Search on ebay for ball joint separator will give many styles. The one I pictured with a removable pin with two pivot points is what I used and it works great. Any auto parts store or tool supply should have it.

The two hammer trick does work but I have had some that ended up being VERY difficult to break that way. The LCA ends up getting pretty damaged and it is way too much hard work for my old body.
 

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hi,

I gave a good spary of Liquid Wrench (or your favorite spray)
to the joint the night before.
The next day I used propane torch to gently warm the stud of the ball joint,
not the control arm.

Let it cool a few min then used the tool in the photo in the earlier post.
I bought the OTC tool it works great on the ball joints and the tie rod ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Search youtube channel - realfixesrealfast. Great how-to videos. Esp. lower ball joint and taurus wheel bearing videos. Many others too.
Just a follow up - the wheel bearing change out was a snap on that video (maybe they don't have salt on the roads wherever that video was shot :mellow:

I ended up using a large pickle fork to get that ball joint out of the LCA. (Had to set my purse down and really smack it with a three pound hammer!!)
Then when I tried to carefully tap the wheel bearing/hub assembly out of the knuckle it didn't want to move so I had to get a little more physical with it. It finally broke and the hub came out, the ball bearings went all over the floor, and the bearing races stayed in the knuckle. :angry:

So I ended up pulling the knuckle completely out of the car. (Must have taken 30 minutes just to get the ABS sensor out with out breaking it - those buggers are in tight!) Took it to the shop and BEAT the bearing races out of the knuckle. By then the ball joint looked like the pickel fork may have loosened it up so I figured 'mite as well' replace it while everything is apart. Couldn't budge that rascal even with the three pound hammer. Finally had to burn it out with the torch! By now the dust shield was looking kind of lonely so we ground off the rivets and drove the remains out with a small punch - even they were seized in their bores.

So now I've got it down to the bare knuckle. Putting in a new bearing/hub assembly, new ball joint, new dust shield, and all new rivets ready to ge in (if it ever stops raining). We put new struts in a few months ago so I should never have to tear this side down again in my lifetime!

Thank You all for your responses and guidence . . . . .
 
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