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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys.

I've noticed the past few weeks that the car has been having a rough start but will recover and run fine.

While driving today, I noticed a loud ticking or rapping (as if a fan was out of alignment and hitting the case) and loss of power.. Rough engine and hard shake when trying to accelerate.

I pulled over and after some quick testing, have found the noise comes from maybe the valve cover...maybe something attached to the camshaft as the tapping frequency matches the RPM of the engine.

Additionally, the tapping does not become prominent until you give it some gas. At idle, though rough, it is nonexistent...maybe small random taps...

Vehicle has a newer fuel filter, new spark plugs and showed no outward symptoms until I noticed it whilst driving and subsequently pulling over.

It would seem to me that there is a few directions that I can go in and would like some advice as to what to start on first.

Info is below. I'm hoping someone can help. Your help is greatly appreciated.

2000 Taurus SE OHV 3.0
Oil level is acceptable
Trans level is acceptable
Voltage and battery shows no signs of issues
Power steering ok
Brake fluid ok
 

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check the connections at the plug wires....You didn't mention the weather conditions at the time (moisture), but thinking a loose plug wire causing the shaking at idle and tapping sound from the cylinder that would be misfiring. A quick way to check this is a spray bottle of water with a little salt sprayed onto the plug wires and around the spark plug (the less light outside the better) as the jumping spark will show up very quickly during this test.
 

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Oil history on the engine? Last time the oil was changed?

You might have something like stuck lifter. If you want you can take a rocker cover off and take a look.
 

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Weak lifter combined with low oil pressure with warm engine.
You should change the oil NOW and go to higher warm vascosity, something like Rotella T6 5W40.
 

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I've had this [almost exact] problem for about 3 years. Nothing became of the tapping, but I had a smooth running engine. Never figured it out.
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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Hi guys.
While driving today, I noticed a loud ticking or rapping (as if a fan was out of alignment and hitting the case) and loss of power.. Rough engine and hard shake when trying to accelerate.

I pulled over and after some quick testing, have found the noise comes from maybe the valve cover...maybe something attached to the camshaft as the tapping frequency matches the RPM of the engine.

Additionally, the tapping does not become prominent until you give it some gas. At idle, though rough, it is nonexistent...maybe small random taps...
I keep thinking bent/busted pushrod, although I have no idea how a Vulcan would act with one. Happened to me with an ancient Pontiac I had in college, the ball brazed to the end of the pushrod had broken off. Sounded bad, easy fix though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I took the valve cover off and noticed the problem right away. A valve spring was popped. Two pieces wrapped around each other and sheared at the head.

Would a repair of the valve spring require removal of the cylinder head on the 3.0 and if so, could anyone point me in the right direction? I'm game for a challenge. I just don't want to waste time without a good direction to go.

Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll be sure to take heed to the article though what would be a tried and true way to ensure your at TDC on that particular cylinder?

Thanks
 

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Stick a long screwdriver down the spark plug hole while carefully turning the engine. The other way is the "puff" method by feeling for or putting an indicator in the spark hole to look for the puff of air when the cylinder is on compression. The article describes the ballon method, which also works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Finally found a valve spring through I think the guy gave me a slightly different one. The one in the Taurus has the spring coiling down in diameter at one end slightly.

The one I have from the parts pull is strait as an arrow same on both ends. Would this be a problem?

Edit: It's worth it to mention that they are exactly the same on one end. Just that the original has a smaller diameter on one side.
 

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Cake monster
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Finally found a valve spring through I think the guy gave me a slightly different one. The one in the Taurus has the spring coiling down in diameter at one end slightly.

The one I have from the parts pull is strait as an arrow same on both ends. Would this be a problem?

Edit: It's worth it to mention that they are exactly the same on one end. Just that the original has a smaller diameter on one side.
Hi. I think he gave you a pre 99 spring, which isn't conical like the 99-03 springs. I have no idea if they will interchange.

engine builder mag said:
1986-7/26/99 (except Methanol applications)
The E6AE-AC/HC and F6DE-GA were built with 8.0mm valves through 7/26/99. These castings both had a 49cc, oval chamber.
7/27/99 - 2003 (except Methanol applications)
The F6DE-GC casting came with 7.0mm valves, conical springs and smaller retainers beginning in 7/27/99 and it has continued in that configuration up through '03.
Check this article out: Rebuilding The Ford 3.0L V6: Engine Builder

Hope this helps and good luck!
 

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The force curve on a valve spring is pretty important at higher RPMs, so I wouldn't chance putting in a spring that looks different.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ordered and received the correct spring and retainers though I have a worry. I was unable to find the old retainers anywhere under the valve cover. The spring is really the only part that broke, though the old retainers are nowhere to be found...

I'm going to get a thin articulating magnet rod to try to find the old parts. Maybe the old retainers fell in the oil drains? Additionally, the valve itself seems to stop and not fall in. How is it that the valve didn't' fall in the engine and screw everything up? I can lift the valve but it stops before falling all the way in.
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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Additionally, the valve itself seems to stop and not fall in. How is it that the valve didn't' fall in the engine and screw everything up? I can lift the valve but it stops before falling all the way in.
I wouldn't complain about that! Likely that the piston is at or close to TDC and the valve's resting on it.
 

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The part of the valve stem that never goes down into the guide often builds up a layer of varnish on it (especially with less than optimum oil change intervals), and since that part of the stem is a bit "thicker" due to the varnish, it wont drop down any farther than it would when operating correctly.

If you cant find the valve keepers, I wouldnt worry too much. If the made it down to the oil pan, they will likely just stay there and not cause problems. They are too big to make it thru the oil pump pickup screen.
 

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Another guess: If the valve was hit by cylinder, probably the stem did bend slightly and that's why is not going all the way down. In this case the cylinder and valve would have scuff marks on it too. Probably won't seal good either. You can try a pressure test (compressed air) trough the spark plug hole, with the valve pulled all the way 'up'. Pressure should keep the valve up with no leakage.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got everything put back together but the car is running rough. Rough idle noticable when in drive and reverse though not as bad in park. Smell of gas is stronger now though there are no leaks.

I guess this means the valve isn't sealing well?
 
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