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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Its a 1991 ,

I was in the interstate just got on, shifting around 6000 to maybe 6500 RPM, I left 4th and when into 5th with I heard a pop. that came from the car. About 1 min I was smelling the gear dope. as I was slowing down and tried to down-shift. no 4th . and was kinda hard to hit the other Gears.

I pulled over about 3miles after I heard the noise and Seen the Gear dope coming out, it was coming out like it had a hole the size of a dime or something like that.

Also I when I was turning in it was popping like the CV joints was bad. BUT was just replace.

I then drove it like 10 miles back to park it. and abour 1mile, you can start hearing the whine of the Trans losing the Gear dope.


NOTE: just last Tuesday I picked it up from the Shop, NEW Rear main seal, Front Main seal,Timing belt, water pump, crank sensor, all the top end Seal, Clutch Kit, throw out bearing, and the shop check the drain plug for any metal( it was Clean,) and replaced the Gear dope.


it will be back to him tomorrow. has less them 175 miles on it. and I know the warranty will not cover the transmission.



I might just start parting it out. its a 1991 SHO plus. :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes that is what I mean. fluid.. I have in all $2700 in the car, thinking about parting it out. LOL

This might be a good thing, it would have gotten me killed. LOL
 

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You blew your diff. It does happen. You can easily get a used tranny for a couple hundred and have it swapped out. You can also put in a Wavetrac and never worry about it again. We have good used transmissions at SHO Source if interested.
 

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Its a 1991 ,
shifting around 6000 to maybe 6500 RPM,
... has less them 175 miles on it.
... its a 1991 SHO plus. :huh:
So, you have a 20 year old car, with 175k miles on the transmission and engine. Probably leaking transmission fluid everywhere for a while (the seals that shop said need replacement) and never checked the fluid level - probably transmission case was bone-dry by now. With that said, you are redlining it at 6500 rpm.

Wonder why the differential blew in pices??? Hmmm...
 

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So, you have a 20 year old car, with 175k miles on the transmission and engine. Probably leaking transmission fluid everywhere for a while (the seals that shop said need replacement) and never checked the fluid level - probably transmission case was bone-dry by now. With that said, you are redlining it at 6500 rpm.

Wonder why the differential blew in pices??? Hmmm...
He said they just replaced the transmission fluid and only had 175 miles on the work.

The diff pin does tend to shoot out, even with normal driving.

and the shop check the drain plug for any metal( it was Clean,) and replaced the Gear dope.


it will be back to him tomorrow. has less them 175 miles on it. and I know the warranty will not cover the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
LOL I called the Tranny shop, he said might split the case and might be able to half a case cheaper.

Poor abused car. ? it popped at 110mhp its just a thing when you own a older car it became the bank. taking all the money.

I did find a 1994 SHO Auto need brake work, and other miner thing done to it for $800, and I now have a Parts car (My 1991) if I buy it. LOL
 

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Poor abused car. ? it popped at 110mhp its just a thing when you own a older car it became the bank.
So it's not abused? 110mph (at 6500 rpm in 4th gear I think it was more), in a 20 year old car with 175k miles?
If you really cared about the money you woldn't try to drive it like you are on NASCAR or quarter mile launch pad.
Safety, responsability on public roads? Who cares?

Some people...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I dont drive crazy, at all, My work is part driving and if I get a ticket for speeding too fast over the speed limit I will lose my job.

I was being sarcastic when I said 110 in 4th, it was 60-65mhp with i shifted to 5th,

its at the shop now, and he said he replaced the differential in other taurus, and most of the time when it pop/brakes, it cracks the case,. He will look but he said the last one he bought was $250 and he rebuilt it, he will look, let me know in a few days,
 

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If you drive like an a s s hole, and treat your car like an a s s hole, it'll bite you in the ass every time.
Well said. :D



There is NO reason to rev any car anywhere near 6000 RPM.

That IS abuse in my opinion.

I laugh when I see the Hondas on the side of the road...you know you're redlining it and blowing things up. I like to say "V-Tec just kicked in!"

I worked with a young guy who went through 2 Civics in the short time I knew him...blowing transmissions, cracked a block, always leaking oil...yeah...Honda quality!

The Taurus is a family car, like it or not. It's not a race car. Drive it like one and it will fail, just as any other car.
 

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I think any car that does "110mhp" (or does it have 110 million horsepower?) should be equipped with the right kind of gear dope. What happened was, the shop used the wrong dope which almost always causes catastrophic failure of 4th gear.
 

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There is NO reason to rev any car anywhere near 6000 RPM.
The SHO's redline is set to 7200 RPM and can be set to higher with no ill effects. I believe they were tested to run at 10k. I have my rev limiter set at 8k.

When I road course I run on the track typically at 5000-6000rpm the entire time so I am in the power band.

The SHO is not a regular Taurus either.
 

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Well said. :D



There is NO reason to rev any car anywhere near 6000 RPM.

That IS abuse in my opinion.

I laugh when I see the Hondas on the side of the road...you know you're redlining it and blowing things up. I like to say "V-Tec just kicked in!"

I worked with a young guy who went through 2 Civics in the short time I knew him...blowing transmissions, cracked a block, always leaking oil...yeah...Honda quality!

The Taurus is a family car, like it or not. It's not a race car. Drive it like one and it will fail, just as any other car.
So wait, its abuse to run an engine in its designed RPM range?
And the AX4N/S in the Taurus would fail at 0rpm if it could. My SAAB gets driven very spiritedly, frequently hitting redline at 15psi of boost and 160k later, still runs like a top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think any car that does "110mhp" (or does it have 110 million horsepower?) should be equipped with the right kind of gear dope. What happened was, the shop used the wrong dope which almost always causes catastrophic failure of 4th gear.

its still in the shop I did crack the case, I do remember he talking about a mixer of some kind of fluid.

will have to look in to it.

( I might get it fix or part it put. hate to do it, I need a truck too. :(
 

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So wait, its abuse to run an engine in its designed RPM range?
And the AX4N/S in the Taurus would fail at 0rpm if it could. My SAAB gets driven very spiritedly, frequently hitting redline at 15psi of boost and 160k later, still runs like a top.
Agreed.

The red line is the maximum SAFE RPM for the engine. Exceeding the red line can (but often wont) damage an engine. Brief excersions to the red line, such as some WOT runs will not hurt an engine in any way. Running at the red line for extended periods of time is another story, however. Typical automotive engines just arent designed for that.

I have run every car / engine I ever owned to the red line on a semi regular basis with zero problems. However, I only seriously stress an engine after the coolant, oil and tranny fluid have reached operating temp. Starting an engine with 20 deg F oil in it, imediately slamming it into gear and doing a 0 to 100 MPH WOT run can and will shorten any engines (and transmissions) life.
 
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