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Liquid substance in intake manifold

2K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  Jim Chris 
#1 ·
Hello
I have a 2001 Taurus that's been sitting a couple years. I got it running and ran good for about 3 hrs. I would only drive it about 10, 15min turn it off, and drive again in about 45 min.

It started shuddering like it was running on 3 cylinders, then it cut off.
Partial disassembly, I see the injectors are dirty. With the plenum off I see a pool of liquid in parts of the manifold. It smells like fuel, and dark colored. Is this normal?

I've included a pic of injector, plenum, and a pic of the coolant reservoir.
Is the manifold supposed to be "dry" in that area when no fuel is injected? Isn't possible headgasket is blown?

Car did not overheat when I drove it. It tries to start but will not start
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#4 ·
Many auto parts stores don't charge for hooking up a scan tool and giving you the codes. If it shows a code for Crank Sensor, replace it. (car will often sound like it wants to start when the crank sensor is bad.) Or, just buy a cheapo scan tool.
What's the car's history? Miles?
Do all the easy, cheap stuff first: check air cleaner, plugs, pull off the coil pack and inspect for cracks.
To test fuel system pour a small amount of fuel down the intake, hit starter, if it runs for a few sec and dies you've got a fuel problem, if it still don't run you gotta elec prob.
 
#11 ·
pretty grainy picture but it looks black soot. is your check engine light on and did you get the trouble codes checked when you had it out? something may be causing it to run too rich and if so your cats will be cooked very soon if not already.
 
#12 ·
Do all the plugs look like that or just that one? Anyway, that plug looks fouled, either too much fuel or oil. If you know someone with a bead blaster, you can blast and clean them , and if you know someone with a plug tester you can also test them under pressure (saves a lot of money compared to buying new plugs all the time!). Clean thoroughly after blasting, put anti-seize on the threads before installing.
A sticking injector (s) could be the problem. Pulling them out and cleaning/testing them might be a good idea (see YouTube). Also won't cost anything. Maybe an injector, or two, got gummed up from sitting....
I bet it'll run with new/clean plugs, and if it does get it out on the highway and blow the cobwebs out of it - pedal to the metal.
 
#15 ·
Do all the plugs look like that or just that one? Anyway, that plug looks fouled, either too much fuel or oil. If you know someone with a bead blaster, you can blast and clean them , and if you know someone with a plug tester you can also test them under pressure (saves a lot of money compared to buying new plugs all the time!). Clean thoroughly after blasting, put anti-seize on the threads before installing.
A sticking injector (s) could be the problem. Pulling them out and cleaning/testing them might be a good idea (see YouTube). Also won't cost anything. Maybe an injector, or two, got gummed up from sitting....
I bet it'll run with new/clean plugs, and if it does get it out on the highway and blow the cobwebs out of it - pedal to the metal.
I did take out all 6 injectors and clean the nipple area. I need to have them cleaned or replaced.
 
#13 ·
I havent seen plugs that nasty in a long long time. First thing I would do is replace the plugs and see if it will start / run. Maybe replace the plug wires with the correct Motorcraft replacements if they look iffy. Also remove the coil pack and inspect it for cracks. Any crack, even if small, especially on the bottom, replace the coil pack with Motorcraft or BWD only.... no cheap junk parts from the discount parts store.
 
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#14 ·
Thanks for your tips
I did clean the plugs and it started, bit ran roughly like before- shaking and shuddering for 5 min, and it cut off, even with gas pedal lightly depressed. It will start again after 3,4 tries and run for about 30 S.
Interesting you press pedal, and it responds, speeds up and cuts back off.
 
#21 ·
With the CEL on, you really need to get the codes. Without codes, you are shooting in the dark.
 
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#22 ·
I know it be helpful to have codes read.
I cleaned plugs and it started up and ran rough for 5 min and cut off
A mechanic next door told me the injectors prob clogged up again.
I'll have to buy a code reader. I can't take car anywhere and mechanics want 40 - 75 bucks to read the codes.
 
#23 ·
It isnt helpful to have the codes, it is essential to have the codes.

Since the code(s) will be P series codes (Powertrain codes) any cheapo scan tool will work. Much better option is to download Forscan (free download for PC) and pick up a ELM327 OBDII interface (around $25 on Amazon, Ebay, etc). That will allow you to read all series codes (P, C, B and U series), show hundreds of PIDs (Parameter IDs) in various formats (numerical, graphical, etc).

$40 to $75 to read the codes? Thats highway robbery!! Takes under 2 minutes to get the codes working slowly.
 
#24 ·
You wrote that you 'cleaned the plugs'....how? Did you use a bead blaster or plug cleaner? If not, they're not cleaned. If you can't bead blast the plugs clean, (cleaning the entire inside of the plug to bare ceramic all the way to the bottom, etc) buy new ones.
Wire brush + spray cleaner won't do it!
 
#26 ·
You wrote that you 'cleaned the plugs'....how? Did you use a bead blaster or plug cleaner? If not, they're not cleaned. If you can't bead blast the plugs clean, (cleaning the entire inside of the plug to bare ceramic all the way to the bottom, etc) buy new ones.
Wire brush + spray cleaner won't do it!
I clean my small engine plugs as in the pic using household ammonia. I put it in a glass cup with the plug in it. Boil it in the microwave.
Back in the day, old school shops had sand blast plug cleaner and pressure testing for spark. That turned out to be a bad deal. Grans of sand got trapped in the seams and then fell out into the cylinder. Bad deal.
Ammonia is a very good cleaner but often not known. It is OLD SCHOOL. Like Me.!
-chart-
 

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#25 ·
^^^^^^ Agree 100%
 
#29 ·
Just replace the plugs and see what happens. New plugs arent that expensive, and relatively easy to replace assuming you have a Vulcan. If you have a Duratec, you have to pull the upper intake to get at the rear bank plugs, and it is a good idea to replace the upper to lower intake gaskets (easy and cheap).
 
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#31 ·
I have now 3 '03's DOHC miles range from 122-192K. Sold '01 DOHC). Never had a gasket leak on intake. I pull the upper to replace the coil and/or plugs. Wipe the surface and replace. Never had a leak. My long term trims are 0 to -7 at idle. No sign of a leak, it ain't broke no need to fix it. If you do not have a leak, replacement is waste of time and effort. I have had plug and wire issues, both OE and aftermarket. Lin cont had a loose plug and another plug did not belong to this engine. Aftermarket Autolite with bad top electrode not making good contact. Coilpack fail is common, had that also. Cracks and misfire.
-chart-
 
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