[mobiuslogic]

Alrighty guys, I came to a conundrum last week as I was doing my brakes, in that I'm not sure how best to lift my car. Ideally, I'd like to get the jackstands under the tabs below the doors, the lift points. However, if I jack the car up under one of the lift points, I of course can't get the jack stand underneath because the jack is in the way and the car is sitting on the tires on the opposite side.

I of course want the least amount of chassis flex/rotation as possible, so when I did my brakes I lifted the car at the very front from the sub-frame in the center, and put the jack-stands under a thick part of the subframe because A) I was afraid to lift the car ridiculously to try and get it under the lift point tabs, and B ) I did try once before, and my particular jackstands still wouldn't fit under the lift point while I lifted from the front of the subframe.

So,
1) How do I lift the chassis the best, Front and Rear, and be able to get some jackstands under the lift points while still raising the car safely?

2) What jackstands would you recommend that are lower than mine, because my jackstands MINIMUM height is ~15.5." Yeah I measured it, and I was blown away. Seems a little ridiculous to me.

Considering I've got 2 swaybars to put in and some lowering springs to boot, I'd like the car up safely (of course front and rear at different times), but I don't need it off the ground rediculously like with my jackstands, just enough to get the tires off with the suspension fully extended.
Thanks guys.

-mobiuslogic

 

[Guest]

Your jackstands are fine. I find it much easier to work if the car's at or about that high. Is the problem that the jack doesn't go high enough to allow you to put the jackstand under the car?

 

[jlervine]

Funny, I was pondering the same conundrum today while doing my front brakes. I just used the spare jack to jack one side of the car up and then put a jackstand underneath the subframe rail and the tire I just took off behind the jack under the door sill/unibody seam.

I've seen unibody adapters for floor jack saddles, and that's all well and good, but what's the best place to jack the car up? For the record, I've got a Gen 4 Duratec...

 

[mikehawk]

I use two different spots for the front, but I don't know what they're called. The first is a round rubber thing with a bolt through the middle, probably some kind of motor or transmission mount. And the other spot I use it some kind of reinforcement on the unibody, kind of like under the driver's seat. Also, I put a short piece of 2X4 on the jackstand. It gives me an extra 1.5-2" of lift, prevents scratches, and prevents dents caused by pressure points because the wood disperses the load.

I can't remember where I jack it up in the rear, but it can't be all that complicated. Never really slows me down when I need the rear up. Just look for something sturdy.

 

[Capital Punishment]

Dern, i read the topic name and thought someone was actually lifting their taurus.

 

[mikehawk]

Originally posted by Capital Punishment@Feb 22 2004, 10:25 PM
Dern, i read the topic name and thought someone was actually lifting their taurus.

Yeah, it threw me for a loop too. Before I opened it I thought it was a list of things poeple do that piss you off in the gym.

 

[Guest]

The safest jacking points for all these cars is either the subframe, subframe mount (that's what mikehawk is referring to), or the jacking point that's on the rocker panel for use with the factory scissor jack.

Jackstands can be placed on any of these spots as well, and also on the unibody reinforcements (floor supports).

 

[mobiuslogic]

THANK YOU BOB!!!

Next time I need to lift the car, I'll lift from the rear subframe mounting points on each side, and get the stands under the lift points.

But what about lower jacks. I really don't need the car as high as 15.5" though.

-mobiuslogic

 

[Guest]

You can get smaller jackstands at Autozone, or places like that. I think the small ones I got were only about $10.

I forgot to mention about jacking the rear of the car. It's very important that you don't jack under the control arm box in the center, no matter how inviting it looks. It's sheetmetal, and it will bend. On the Gen 1/2 cars, you can jack under the rear strut rod mounting bracket. You can do the same on the G3/4 cars, but you need to pay attention to where you put the jack. The G3/4 cars don't have an enclosed strut rod mount, so I usually put the jack under the double-walled part of the mount. You'll see what I mean once you get under the car. Jackstands for the rear are best placed on the rocker panel jacking points.

 

[Tman]

you can also lift on the pinch rails on booth sides of the car

 

[mobiuslogic]

Originally posted by Bob Gervais@Feb 22 2004, 11:16 PM
It's very important that you don't jack under the control arm box in the center, no matter how inviting it looks.

I'm guessing the control arm box is the central box looking thing with the 4 independent parallel arms connected to it. Thanks for the warning. I've OFTEN thought of this as a "safe" place to lift, but I'm glad I've been forewarned.

How then can I jack the entire back end up at once rather than each side at a time? If I only get each side, it'll be resting on the other sides tires and I won't be able to get the jack stand under it.

-mobiuslogic

 

[mikehawk]

Originally posted by mobiuslogic@Feb 23 2004, 12:08 AM
How then can I jack the entire back end up at once rather than each side at a time? If I only get each side, it'll be resting on the other sides tires and I won't be able to get the jack stand under it.

-mobiuslogic

That doesn't make any sense. Anytime I've had the entire rear end up on jackstands I've always done it one side at a time. You can get both wheels off the ground doing it one side at a time with no problem. Just make sure you chock the wheels.

 

[Damon]

Originally posted by Bob Gervais@Feb 23 2004, 12:16 AM
I forgot to mention about jacking the rear of the car. It's very important that you don't jack under the control arm box in the center, no matter how inviting it looks. It's sheetmetal, and it will bend. On the Gen 1/2 cars, you can jack under the rear strut rod mounting bracket. You can do the same on the G3/4 cars, but you need to pay attention to where you put the jack. The G3/4 cars don't have an enclosed strut rod mount, so I usually put the jack under the double-walled part of the mount. You'll see what I mean once you get under the car. Jackstands for the rear are best placed on the rocker panel jacking points.

Whoopsie, i've been doing that for quite a while now.

 

[spridget]

Originally posted by duratecchie+Feb 22 2004, 11:24 PM-->QUOTE (duratecchie @ Feb 22 2004, 11:24 PM)

<!--QuoteBegin-Bob Gervais

@Feb 23 2004, 12:16 AM
I forgot to mention about jacking the rear of the car.  It's very important that you don't jack under the control arm box in the center, no matter how inviting it looks.  It's sheetmetal, and it will bend.

Whoopsie, i've been doing that for quite a while now.

[/b]

:redface:

Yeah me too. I have piece of treated 2x6 (maybe 2x4) that fits perfectly around all four sides of the box.

 

[mobiuslogic]

Originally posted by spridget@Feb 24 2004, 01:54 AM
Yeah me too. I have piece of treated 2x6 (maybe 2x4) that fits perfectly around all four sides of the box.

Actually doing that may be ok because it would distribute the weight along the entire box, as opposed to the 4 points that the jack's center piece will land on. Much much larger distribution of the force with the block as opposed to just the jack itself.

Bob,

or

?

-mobiuslogic

 

[draconix]

Originally posted by Capital Punishment@Feb 22 2004, 08:25 PM
Dern, i read the topic name and thought someone was actually lifting their taurus.

I thought it'd be cool to lift the rear of my taurus, but whats the point in fwd?

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by mobiuslogic+Feb 24 2004, 02:15 AM-->QUOTE (mobiuslogic @ Feb 24 2004, 02:15 AM)

<!--QuoteBegin-spridget

@Feb 24 2004, 01:54 AM
Yeah me too. I have piece of treated 2x6 (maybe 2x4) that fits perfectly around all four sides of the box.

Actually doing that may be ok because it would distribute the weight along the entire box, as opposed to the 4 points that the jack's center piece will land on. Much much larger distribution of the force with the block as opposed to just the jack itself.

Bob,

or

?

-mobiuslogic [/b]

That sounds like it would work, though I'm not a big fan of using wood to do it with. It may be safe, but I've seen 2x4's crack lengthwise when using them like that. I say if you're careful, and try it out slowly, you should be OK doing this.