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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I talked to Ford and my tranny fluid is due mileage wise for a drain and fill, still has a decent red color to it, but needs to be done. Anyways the guy convinced me to get a flush which he said will remove all the old fluid and clean the filter. I asked about just doing a drain and fill but they apparently don't know how to get all the fluid out like this and will only drain the pan if i choose this service.

Going to be $124.99 + tax for this. I asked if i provided say my own Mobil 1 ATF fluid if the cost would go down and he said that i couldn't provide my own fluid with this service as the flush is part of a "KIT" that includes everything in the price.

Anyone got any thoughts on the matter? 129k miles on original tranny , fluid good color, stock tranny filter, 50k since last flush @ Midas
 

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No Flush,No Flush,No Flush !

The "Flush" process is a "Backwash". (Reverse Flow.)
It FORCES all the BAD stuff back through your Transmission,The Wrong Way!

"Stealer" Service Personnel are creating TWO (2) guaranteed profit centers
in your chassis.
1.The "Flush" procedure.
2.The (Very Soon) Replacement Procedure of your (Soon to be Dead)Transmission.

'Nasty Old Saltwater ******* trick for almost ANY Tranny without a Torque Converter Drain:
I used a Shop Vac,Empty 5 gallon plastic bucket (With Lid) and 6 feet of
clear plastic tubing whose O.D. was JUST smaller than the Dipstick tube's I.D.

Cut hole in center of removable 5 Gal Plastic Lid so as to be able to insert
the Shop Vac's hose...Duct tape on the Outside around the hose...Vacuum
will aid in sealing.

Cut small hole 2" s in from the outer rim of the Lid so as to be able to insert the CPT ...Duct Tape on outside of CPT.

Measure your ATF dipstick for Fluid Depth,Transfer measurement to CPT.
Mark with indelible Sharpie.

[If you wanna know the ATF suctioned whilst in operation,use Quarts(s)
of water in the empty 5gal bucket and mark the sides with Sharpie.Clean
and dry the bucket before suctioning]

Insert CPT in the dipstick tube and let the Shop Vac do ALL the work.

It will not get all the ATF out of the bottom of the Pan,BUT you won't
DROWN like you usually do.[I got 8 Quarts out]

R+R Pan and Filter (The Ford gasket is reusable,just clean it well.)
[The Ford Gasket is also superior to aftermarket.]

The Filter has a Green or Red rubber Tube Type gasket that fits over the Filter Tube and seals the
Tube to the Transmission opening...MAKE sure you remove the Old Tube Type Gasket or you won't
be able to insert the new filter.Try not to scratch the Transmission opening removing the old tube gasket.

Based on the amount you removed ,refill with Mobil 1 Mercon V
(Or the appropriate ATF for your application.)

I drove the Chassis for 2-3 days and then repeated the Suction and
Refill portion only.(No Mess!)

I suppose Mathematically, a Third (or even Forth) Suction and ReFill
would be necessary to get the last dredges of the Old ATF out...

BUT, the difference in how the Tranny shifts is most noticeable!
[If I get really crazy later this spring I might do a Third.]
 

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The "Flush" process is a "Backwash". (Reverse Flow.)
It FORCES all the BAD stuff back through your Transmission,The Wrong Way!

"Stealer" Service Personnel are creating TWO (2) guaranteed profit centers
in your chassis.
1.The "Flush" procedure.
2.The (Very Soon) Replacement Procedure of your (Soon to be Dead)Transmission.
That's all asumption. There is also the transmission cooler line method, which some dealerships use. The OP could ask how it's done before jumping to conclusions. Who's to say Midas didn't backflush it previously, and it obviously didn't immediately kill the transmission.
 

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^^^^ +1

However, if it "cleans the tranny filter" in the process, I am making a wild guess that it is a reverse fluch process the dealer is talking about.
 

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I think the counter guy has the trans confused. Some ford trans have a non serviceable filter and there is a partial back flush to clean it. I believe the Contour is like that.

Ford usually hokes the machine up to the trans cooler lines and does a fluid replacement with the trans pumping the fluid. The for the Taurus they would drop the pan and replace the filter. Ask the counter guy or a tech the process for the Taurus . AX4N or S
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I let the horror stories get the best of me. I am going to do what's in the pan drive a little and replace what's in the pan again. Might use mobil one or wolfs head
 

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If you use the gentle flush method posted int he stickies on this site, you can't go wrong. But I would never ever ever use a flush machine. Why would you want to, the trans has its own internal fluid pump, what you do is first drop the pan, change that fluid and filter, put it back together, fill it, then disconnect a return line and let it pump the old fluid out, refill, and keep doing that until new fluid starts to come out, then make sure you fill to the right level, and you are done.
 

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I can't imagine having a machine pumping out old fluid AND cleaning the filter at the same time. Everything done at the stealership is designed to maximize profit. You and your car be damned.
 

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If you use the gentle flush method posted int he stickies on this site, you can't go wrong. But I would never ever ever use a flush machine. Why would you want to, the trans has its own internal fluid pump, what you do is first drop the pan, change that fluid and filter, put it back together, fill it, then disconnect a return line and let it pump the old fluid out, refill, and keep doing that until new fluid starts to come out, then make sure you fill to the right level, and you are done.
+1

Easy to do and works great. I have lost count of how many times I have done this on Ford, GM ,etc.
 

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I can't imagine having a machine pumping out old fluid AND cleaning the filter at the same time. Everything done at the stealership is designed to maximize profit. You and your car be damned.
The factory service manual specs out a "flush" using the method in the stickies, that's where it originated. The "machine" I've seen at a dealership is nothing more than a big tank to catch old fluid and a reservoir full of new Mercon, all mounted up on wheels to move it around easily, no outboard pump at all. It also meters the amount of fluid going into your car. Not all Ford dealers suck, they all DO overcharge though.

Straight from the '96 TSP on CD:

Transaxle Fluid Drain and Refill
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Disconnect Tool T82L-9500-AH

Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements necessitate periodic automatic transmission fluid changes at 48,000 km (30,000 miles) or 34,000 km (21,000 miles) severe duty.

1. Place the transaxle range selector lever in park and set the parking brake.
2. Note: The amount of fluid (fluid level) in the transaxle will affect the time it takes to drain the transaxle. Make sure to check the transaxle fluid level before proceeding.
Start engine and check transaxle fluid level.
3. Turn engine off.
4. Note: If the vehicle is equipped with an air suspension system, the switch must be placed in the off position before raising the vehicle.
Raise and suitably support vehicle.
5. Remove the retainer clip from the lower transaxle fluid cooler line and fitting.
6. Note: On vehicles equipped with 5/16 inch cooler lines, use Disconnect Tool T82L-9500-AH to disconnect the transaxle cooler line. Place the tool on the cooler line and push the tool into the cooler line fitting. This action releases the plastic retaining tabs which holds the cooler in place. Then, pull the cooler line from the transaxle cooler line fitting at the transaxle fluid cooler. On vehicle with 3/8 inch cooler lines, pinch the plastic retaining tabs of the push connect fitting and pull the cooler line to separate it from the cooler line fitting.
Disconnect the lower transaxle cooler line from the transaxle cooler line fitting at the transaxle.
7. Attach a flexible hose approximately 0.9 meters (3.0 feet) in length to the end of the transaxle cooler line and gently fasten the hose with a hose clamp.
8. Place the opposite end of the flexible hose into a suitable 14.2 liter (15 quart) container.
9. Note: When plugging the transaxle cooler line fitting, make sure the plug is made of soft material to prevent damage to the internal seal of the cooler line fitting.
Insert a plug into the transaxle cooler line fitting at the transaxle to prevent any residual fluid leakage.
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Note: When the steady stream of transaxle fluid stops flowing the engine should be turned off to prevent damage to the transaxle. Engine rpm should not exceed curb idle speed while draining transaxle fluid.
Place the transaxle range selector lever in park and start the engine. Run the engine at idle while observing the flexible hose attached to the transaxle cooler line. Run the engine at idle speed for approximately 40-60 seconds until the steady stream of transaxle fluid stops flowing. This step will drain approximately 1.9-2.8 liters (2-3 quarts).
12. Fill the transaxle with 9.5 liters (10 quarts of Motorcraft MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent meeting MERCON® specification.
13. Note: When the steady stream of fluid stops flowing the engine should be turned off to prevent damage to the transaxle. Engine rpm should not exceed curb idle speed while draining fluid.
Place the gearshift lever in park and start the engine. Run the engine at idle while observing the flexible hose attached to the fluid cooler line. Run the engine at idle speed for approximately 2-3 minutes until the steady stream of transmission fluid stops flowing. This step will drain approximately 9.5 liters (10 quarts).
14. Raise and suitably support vehicle.
15. Remove the plug from the transaxle cooler line fitting at the transaxle.
Remove the flexible hose from the cooler line.
16. Note: Carefully clean the cooler line before installing it to ensure a good connection and to prevent fluid leaks.
Install the cooler line into the transaxle cooler fitting by pushing straight into the cooler line fitting until a click is heard. Then, gently pull on the cooler line to make sure the line is locked in place in the cooler line fitting.
17. Install the retaining clip over the cooler line and fitting.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Add 1.9 liters (2 quarts) of Motorcraft MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent meeting MERCON® specification.
20. Place the gearshift lever (7210) in park, apply the parking brake and start the engine. Move the gearshift lever through all ranges allowing the transaxle to engage in each position and return gearshift lever to PARK.
21. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level at normal operating temperature should read within the crosshatched area of the fluid level indicator (7A020). If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched area of the fluid level indicator, adjust the fluid level by adding fluid in 0.2 liter (1/2 pint) increments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
22. Place the air suspension switch to the on position (if equipped).
 
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