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Lengthening a 2004 Ford Taurus

9848 Views 170 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Taurusup
I have raised a 2004 Ford Taurus up approximately 3.5" at both the front and rear ends and put larger diameter wheel/tire combinations on it. I can describe what I did to accomplish this if anyone is interested.

Here are a few pictures of the finished car.


I don't know why, but I could only download this one picture. For some reason all of the others, while they showed 100% completely uploaded, ended up with a line drawn through the upload instead of a picture appearing. Perhaps someone can help me with this "attachment" problem?

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Well, I suppose that if I am to rationalize the ‘fire disaster’; it does force me to remove the dashboard, which will make it easier to access the necessary shifter linkage modifications, steering intermediate shaft (with its firewall ‘boot’ modifications), maybe even find room to move the firewall wiring socket so that I will not have to modify its wiring harness (making it longer).


Needing some motivation at the moment, I am turning back to ‘body work’ (my main drive in the project). I have remounted the front bumper and the front fenders after cutting them into front and back sections roughly directly over the centerline of the wheel wells. I will fill the resulting 5.5” gaps with fitted sheet metal.


More to follow…..
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Just like the Energizer Bunny. "Takes a lick'en and keeps on ticking"
I went back to pick-your-part and picked up a new 2003 Taurus hood. After laying out a line 5.5” from and even with the back edge of the hood I cut off the back edge and preped it for welding (pictures). I fitted and tack welded it to the original hood (picture), and will finish welding it tommorrow.


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Rectangle Automotive exterior Auto part Paper Paper product
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Looking for help regarding the shifter cable.

Does anyone on this forum know where I can find a shifter cable with the same features on each end, except 2.5" to 5" longer than the standard one on a 2004 Taurus. I tried the Ford dealer but they were no help at all. Like most businesses nowadays, they can only plug part numbers into their computer to find a part.
To reinforce the hood at its base, I welded in the 18 gauge doublers shown (pictures). Next, I welded in a 3/16” plate on each side which I tapped to accept the forward hinge mounting screw on each side (made necessary because the original one was right where the new joint ended up) (picture).

After finishing the new elongated hood, I reattached it along with the lights; so that I can best fit the fenders to the new body lines (pictures).

More to follow…..


Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle
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After remounting the new longer hood and the front lights, I positioned the front and back portions of the cut fenders to follow the side contour of the new hood at their mating edges (picture). Once fitted in place, I tack welded in the 18 gauge inserts which I had formed (pictures) to fill the 5.5” gaps in the fenders (picture).


Next, I formed two strips of 1/8” steel bar (picture) to form the steel portion of the contours of the front wheel wells (which were now longer). After locating and welding them in place, I cut out and welded in 18 gauge sheet metal to fill the gaps (pictures).


It's now time to start working with plastic in order to make the front and rear bumper covers (and to avoid the hastles that await me under the dashboard).



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Automotive tire Gas Wood Metal Bumper
Automotive tire Wood Font Tire Rim
Tire Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Hood
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I started with the front bumper cover because it is smaller than the rear bumper cover.

Regarding my front bumper cover, because I am trying to make the car look long and lean in profile, the first thing I did was cut the bottom 2.5” off of the front bumper cover (picture). In addition, I cut out a small portion at the back of the bumper cover which frames the front of the wheel well on each side to make the wheel well a little larger (just like I did in the rear of the car). It is my hope that this too will help elongate the car in appearance.

I purchased another 10’ length of 3/4” diameter polypropylene rod (I have one already for the back bumper cover) to use to reinforce the lower edge of the new bumper cover.



First, I made a plywood form (picture) using the cut off portion of the bumper cover to get the right contour. After making this wooden form, I clamped the polyproylene rod to it and heated the rod using a heat gun (pictures) and shaped it to the contour of the wooden form (picture).

My plan now is to cut the lower flat portion of the lower cutoff section of the bumper cover and tack weld it in place then weld it to the upper section. Once this is done I will weld in the 3/4" diameter formed rod as a reinforcing member to the new bumper cover.


More to follow…..



Automotive tire Banana Plant Motor vehicle Bumper
Automotive tire Light Tire Wood Line
Road surface Asphalt Wood Composite material Tints and shades
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I may have found a solution to my shifter linkage problem. After combing the internet for gearshift controll cables for Fords and looking at their specs, I found a cable which appears to have the same ends as mine (or at least close enough to work with). I turns out that it is used on the 2005-2009 F150 trucks. I ordered one from my local AUTOZONE. If it works out, I will end up having a component from an F150 in my finished car after all. Maybe not the frame (see comment #5 by 02sesvulcan of this thread) but a componennt just the same.

Strangely enough I have a Ford F150, so the answer to my problem was right under my nose.


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After tacking and welding the lower section of the bumper cover to the upper section, I clamped the entire assembly to the plywood form to keep it rigid while welding in the reinforcing rod (pictures).


After trying to weld in the reinforcing rod using a heat gun with a concentrating tip, I had put so much heat into it that it melted through in places and warped in others, making a big mess; so its time to get a new bumper cover and try again.

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I forgot to take pictures during my modifications to the new front bumper. Basically, I used a soldering iron to do the plastic welding this time in order to localize the applied heat so that I wouldn't warp or melt through things. It was a much slower process but yielded far better results.

Because I had gained so little narrowing effect (height wise) by cutting off the base of the bumper cover the first time, I decided to simply reshape the sides of the bumper cover (adding curvature to them) in order to raise up the bottom where they meet the wheel wells. I did this through welding a couple of plastic rib sections to the inside of the bumper cover just in front of the wheel well openings. I also trimmed a little out of the sections of the bumper cover just in front of the wheel wells.

Time to move to the rear bumper cover.....

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Now that I have some plastic welding practice, I can say that the trick is to tack weld pieces together, and then run a slow steady bead of plastic welding rod (I bought 1/8" polypropylene rod from McMaster-Carr 100ft coil for like $12) using a soldering iron which I had shaped the tip to a 1/4" round. To weld I drug the soldering iron along the joint where I wanted to join two pieces together so that it melted the two sides along its sides while at the same time melting the plastic welding rod at its trailing edge, which flowed into the weld puddle just behind the tip if the iron.

Here are pictures of the rear bumper build up. I have spent over a week (a few hours at a time) to accomplish what you see in the pictures. It is not hard to do, it just takes time.

More to follow.....


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