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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
97 GL 60K


I couldn't open the windows on the left side of my car yesterday. The right work just fine. I hear a clicking sound from under the dash when I try to open the drivers window. I have tryed playing with the switches, slamming doors. Turning the car on and off. I figured maybe I had a blown fuse, but I can tell voltage is being taken because there is a drop when I acctuate the switches.

I was hopeing this was a common problem and you guys could tell me exactly where to look and how to fix it :D

Its real embarassing when you can open your window to get your tacos.
 

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I messed with my wife's car last month and was able to get the window to roll up finally. The gears are plastic in the regulator mechanism and seem to be prone to binding after a time. My wife informed me yesterday that the window was stuck again. I am going out on a limb here, but I think the gears are binding due to a lack of a bottom stop for the window. I will get a chance to experiment with it tonight.

To make a long story short, the helper spring needs to be released, the regulator has to be removed from the car, and the mechanism has to be cleaned. How you achieve all this is almost beyond description, but a word of warning: The helper spring is under max tension when the window is down. I pried it off the stops and let it WANG without getting hurt. There are four rivets that need to be drilled out to remove the regulator. I used 1/4-20 NC x 1/2" Phillips with nuts to replace the rivets on re-assembly. The window will be a pain to work around, but it is possible.
Once the regulator is out, the motor is held in place with four small screws. The armature will seperate from the housing if you are not careful. It is a real b**** to re-assemble the motor brushes onto the armature.

Good Luck, and I will keep posting as I come across other difficulties and outcomes.

Bill
 

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Same thing happened to me. Before you get too involved with the gears and such, hit the switch to make it click, and while it's doing that, feel under the dash for the relay that's making the clicking. You'll feel it's the right one when you put your finger on it - definitely.

Once you've found it, pull the relay out, go to Ford, tell the parts guy you want one just like it, and replace. If I remember correctly it was about $6.

This will fix your problem.
 

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I haven't had a chance to work on my wife's car yet, but the weekend is coming.

Question: If the relay is bad, would the motor still draw current? I thought about replacing the relay, but noticed the door light was dimming when I hit the switch and assumed the dimming was caused by a locked rotor/armature.

Thanks,
bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by arizonian@Jun 16 2004, 09:08 PM
I haven't had a chance to work on my wife's car yet, but the weekend is coming.

Question: If the relay is bad, would the motor still draw current? I thought about replacing the relay, but noticed the door light was dimming when I hit the switch and assumed the dimming was caused by a locked rotor/armature.

Thanks,
bill
Mine draws voltage as well. Dims the lights and makes the AC fan slower.
 

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This just happened to me for the first time today. 97 GL, same exact thing. i came here to see if it happened to anyone else. I love this place! I trying some WD-40 1st, and then replacing the relay if that doesnt work. THank you!!!
 

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saerandy,

Good call on the relay. Just drove the car to the store for a bite to eat and checked out the switch again. The motor is only drawing current when trying to roll the window down. There is no response when hitting the up switch. I had the dash out last month, so it should not be hard to find the bad relay and replace it. That will be much easier than yanking the door apart again.

Bill
 

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saerandy,

I am looking in the book (Helm's) and find that the relay in question is the "One touch window down" relay. Since my window is already down, this relay does nothing. I have yet to find the "window up" relay. According to the schematic that I am reading, there does not appear to be a relay in this part of the system. Now it looks like I need to work on the door and check out the switches and the motor again.

Bill
 

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It's near the fuse panel (or on it). I went to Costco to get my tires rotated and when they were done they said they couldn't roll the window up (actually it said 'window broken') even though it was up when I brought it to them. They opened it and the relay failed. Couldn't roll it up (drivers side) same symptoms as you. Felt around for the relay, went to Ford, got a new one, popped it in, works great.

This relay does more than just auto down. You could swap out the relay at the dealer (takes a few seconds) that way if that's not the problem, you could just walk right back to the parts dept & return it.

I'm almost 100% that this is your problem. Especially if it's sometimes intermittent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After about 2 hours work it turns out the problem wasn't the relay.

I took the drivers side door apart. Checked the voltage to the motor and all was good.

Turns out that track must have frozen because 1/4 of a can of WD40 and it was moving again. I liberaly applied lithium grease and we are back in business.

Also I treated the old dried up weather stripping on all the windows with some meguiars trim detailer. I think the windows stick shut because it is so old and dried out.

Everything seems to work much better now.

I really wish it was the relay, that would have been easy.

Rember you can always try moving the relays around to see if the symptoms follow.

I love this car.
 

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davesbedroom and saerandy,

I moved the rear window defrost relay to the driver door window location and nothing changed. Right now I have the door apart and am messing with the regulator. I was wrong stating that there was no bottom stop for the window. The stop is at the end of the bull gear on the regulator. I think that something is binding in the regulator/gear reducer/motor and the motor torque is not sufficient to break it free. Once the spring is released and the load taken off the gear reducer, the motor runs fine.

So now the question is: where can I pick up a motor/gear reducer and regulator without going to the stealership? I have been looking on ebay and come up with zilch.

Thanks

Bill
 

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Over and done with. I am almost embarrassed by what I found. :ph34r:

To make a long story short, when I built the car in '97 (salvage reconstruction) I did not pretension the helper spring enough when I installed the new glass. The up motion on the LF door window has always been slower than the other windows. The motor finally weakend enough and refused to launch the window off the stop. After finding a picture of a regulator on mongoose (similar to ebay), I realized what the problem was and corrected it. The window works better than it ever has, the wife is happy, and I need a beer. :chili:

Thanks to all for the input, and thanks to dave for starting this post.

Bill
 
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