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Don't Be Stupid
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Discussion Starter #1
So I went on vacation. Parked the car in the garage Sat. Jan 3, started it up today, Mon, Jan 12. Nobody moved or started the car, it's been low 30's- and below all week here. Went out and started it (battery dead- probably due to xm), and it made a god awful knocking noise. Like a light rod knock- RPM dependant. I immediately killed the car, checked oil, and started it back up. The noise started immediately again, but only lasted 10-15 seconds, then faded out. It hasn't returned. Car runs and drives fine with no codes. What could it be? Off the top of my head, I believe the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic, maybe it leaked down and the chain was slapping the valve cover. :dunno:

EDIT: Oh, 10-30 Mobil 1 with Motocraft 420s
 

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Don't Be Stupid
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Discussion Starter #4
I'd answer your question, but you asked for Luke's help and not mine... [/b]
Not true, I just asked Luke to stop by. If I solely wanted Luke's opinion, I know where the PM button is.

:D






Mods: Please add Daniel's name to the title :lol2:
 

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Well, how old is the oil? If it's worn out it could have drained back to the pan and left you with basically no lubrication until the pump got the system primed again. And since it was pretty cold when you fired it up, it would take a few moments to get that thick oil pumping thru the system. Also, a timing chain rattle sounds a fair bit different than a rod knock, so make sure which you heard.
 

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Don't Be Stupid
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Discussion Starter #7
Well, how old is the oil? If it's worn out it could have drained back to the pan and left you with basically no lubrication until the pump got the system primed again. And since it was pretty cold when you fired it up, it would take a few moments to get that thick oil pumping thru the system. Also, a timing chain rattle sounds a fair bit different than a rod knock, so make sure which you heard. [/b]
Oil is ~1500 miles IIRC.



The sound was similar to a rod knock but was definitely not as deep or as concussive (for lack of a better word)
 

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I didn't hear the noise myself, but the description sounds a lot like a lifter drained all it's oil and had to re-prime. I did a head gasket job a while back, and my friend took apart ALL the lifters for the vehicle because it had been SEVERELY overheated, and cleaned each one manually. It had a nasty knock for about 30 seconds after start that went away. It was FOR SURE the lifters on that one.
 

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Sounds like a lifter problem. Dirty or poor quality oil crudes up the small passages in the lifters renderring them inoperative on start up until the oil gets warm. Before synthetic motor oils there were only two remedies for this problem. One, a tear down and cleaning the lifters, or change the oil and filter and add one or two quarts of Marvel Mystery oil and in a few hundred miles problem solved. Over the last 30 or so years I have helped dozens of people free up those sticky lifters and I'm sure some rings and valve guides to boot. But, now with full synthetic oils this problem is fast becoming a thing of the past. Although, I still recommend adding a quart of M&M just to gain those qualities that dino oil may still provide. Easy fix.

Oh, and do not fall for the blend oils which never tell you the ratio of syn to dino, which leads me to believe that the actual percentage of synthetic is very low, maybe 5 or 10 percent. The illusion being that the ratio is 50/50.
 

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Oh, and do not fall for the blend oils which never tell you the ratio of syn to dino, which leads me to believe that the actual percentage of synthetic is very low, maybe 5 or 10 percent. The illusion being that the ratio is 50/50.
[/b]
The bottle never says how much synthetic is in there because there is no law to stipulate it. We talked about this in a training course one day. In reality, a manufacturer could put one single molecule of synthetic oil in the bottle, and call it a blend. So save your money - buy full synthetic, or plain old dino - but don't waste a penny on so-called "blends."
 
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