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wow, I've had the same problem on my 05, couldnt figure out the problem until I found this info....you guys are pure awesome :) Sprayed some brake cleaner on this gasket, and the car died....replaced it with the Bosche oil filter gasket, and the problems have been solved!! The car runs smoother now than it has since we bought it earlier this year....love it!!

Took it in yesterday to get the codes read at Autozone....had 10 codes (some repeated)...2196, 2198, 0300, 0316, 0171, 0174....the guy looked at me and said 'i'm sorry, but with this many I'd just take it to a shop and have them fix it".....I was prepared to have to spend a grand on it at least.....got it fixed for under $10!! wow :)
 

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QUOTE (ryanwebb @ Dec 29 2009, 09:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776153
wow, I've had the same problem on my 05, couldnt figure out the problem until I found this info....you guys are pure awesome :) Sprayed some brake cleaner on this gasket, and the car died....replaced it with the Bosche oil filter gasket, and the problems have been solved!! The car runs smoother now than it has since we bought it earlier this year....love it!!

Took it in yesterday to get the codes read at Autozone....had 10 codes (some repeated)...2196, 2198, 0300, 0316, 0171, 0174....the guy looked at me and said 'i'm sorry, but with this many I'd just take it to a shop and have them fix it".....I was prepared to have to spend a grand on it at least.....got it fixed for under $10!! wow :)[/b]
Just and FYI, replacing this gasket with the Bosch oil filter gasket was a temporary fix for me. After a short period of time, the 03xx codes returned. I did find the OEM gasket from a local dealership, and yes, you CAN buy just this gasket. It will seal better due to it's round composition, rather than the square composition of the Bosch gasket. I beleive I posted the part number for the OEM gasket in a related thread.
 

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QUOTE (Squirt @ Nov 5 2008, 02:49 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=673790
So about nine days ago I purchased a 2004 Taurus SE. It has close to 119,000 mi.
When it came to maintenance, it looks like it was rarely done on this car.

I have a few issues with the car

1.When sitting for 5+ hours or overnight, the car becomes noticeably harder to start. When it finally starts, the rpm will hover around 600-800 for a few seconds (misfiring, shaking) and then shoot up to around 2000 rpm, after 10-15 seconds or so it'll lower to around 1500 rpm, few seconds later it drops to around 1000 rpm.

2. Sometimes when slowing down and stopping at a stoplight and or stop sign, the rpms start to fluctuate between 600-800 and the car starts surging (I think that's what its called). I would best describe it as if you have one foot on the brake pedal and another foot on the gas pedal pressing and releasing over and over.

3. On two different occasions (directly after the above happens) when accelerating from a stop light the car hesitates and acts like its ignoring the gas pedal (only way I can describe it). About two seconds later the power kicks in and all is well again.

Two days ago the CEL came on gave me the codes P0171 and P0174 (something about both banks being lean). So I erased the codes and one day later I got the code P2196 (one of the o2 sensors being rich).


The only things I have done so far is flush the transmission with M1 ATF and change the engine air filter.

What would you recommend that I do next?
Thanks in Advance[/b]

I know it's not cool to bring up an old post, but...
I had the same codes P0171,0174,0300,0316. I had spreayed the engine twice before but did not think to spray that far back (or that part). I had replaced the plugs and wires, EGR, checked O2 sensors, cleaned MAF. I was about to purchase coils and a new MAF.
I used an oil filter ring from another brand but still same year as before mentioned (94ish Hyundai), tight fit but it fixed all codes and runs really smooth now.
Thanks Squirt for continuing to reply and keeping us informed.

Robert
 

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QUOTE (michakaveli @ Dec 29 2009, 08:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776154
QUOTE (ryanwebb @ Dec 29 2009, 09:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776153
wow, I've had the same problem on my 05, couldnt figure out the problem until I found this info....you guys are pure awesome :) Sprayed some brake cleaner on this gasket, and the car died....replaced it with the Bosche oil filter gasket, and the problems have been solved!! The car runs smoother now than it has since we bought it earlier this year....love it!!

Took it in yesterday to get the codes read at Autozone....had 10 codes (some repeated)...2196, 2198, 0300, 0316, 0171, 0174....the guy looked at me and said 'i'm sorry, but with this many I'd just take it to a shop and have them fix it".....I was prepared to have to spend a grand on it at least.....got it fixed for under $10!! wow :)[/b]
Just and FYI, replacing this gasket with the Bosch oil filter gasket was a temporary fix for me. After a short period of time, the 03xx codes returned. I did find the OEM gasket from a local dealership, and yes, you CAN buy just this gasket. It will seal better due to it's round composition, rather than the square composition of the Bosch gasket. I beleive I posted the part number for the OEM gasket in a related thread.
[/b][/quote]

Do you still have the part number for the OEM Gasket? thanks.
 

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QUOTE (DDNGUY @ Mar 21 2010, 09:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=792685
QUOTE (michakaveli @ Dec 29 2009, 08:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776154
QUOTE (ryanwebb @ Dec 29 2009, 09:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776153
wow, I've had the same problem on my 05, couldnt figure out the problem until I found this info....you guys are pure awesome :) Sprayed some brake cleaner on this gasket, and the car died....replaced it with the Bosche oil filter gasket, and the problems have been solved!! The car runs smoother now than it has since we bought it earlier this year....love it!!

Took it in yesterday to get the codes read at Autozone....had 10 codes (some repeated)...2196, 2198, 0300, 0316, 0171, 0174....the guy looked at me and said 'i'm sorry, but with this many I'd just take it to a shop and have them fix it".....I was prepared to have to spend a grand on it at least.....got it fixed for under $10!! wow :)[/b]
Just and FYI, replacing this gasket with the Bosch oil filter gasket was a temporary fix for me. After a short period of time, the 03xx codes returned. I did find the OEM gasket from a local dealership, and yes, you CAN buy just this gasket. It will seal better due to it's round composition, rather than the square composition of the Bosch gasket. I beleive I posted the part number for the OEM gasket in a related thread.
[/b][/quote]

Do you still have the part number for the OEM Gasket? thanks.
[/b][/quote]
OEM Part Number for the "seal" that I had replaced with the oil filter gasket.

Ford Part Number: 87072 S91
 

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Thank you, thank you, and thank you all for posting all this information related to this common problem with the Taurus that for some reason is impossible to find a straight answer in the internet. I have been dealing with this problem for 6 months already, and I am very happy that today at last I was able to fix it thanks in part to all of you.

I have a 2006 Ford Taurus SEL with 55,000 miles, and I was having many of the problems listed on this Forum. My car had surges of RPM that were most noticeable when the car was on idle on a light or a stop sign. My car would also feel as it was about to turn off when shifted to reverse on a cold start. There were also occasions that when I turned the driving wheel especially at low speed the car would turn off. There were also a few times that the car switched off while driving at highway speed. The problems that were the most annoying were that the engine felt as if it was running really rough (it used to feel as if at any time it would blow up, and I hated the constant shaking due to this) and the lack of power that could be felt through 3rd and 4th gear.

What fixed all of the problems I described above was a new O-ring Part #87072 S91 which I got from the local Ford Dealership for $9.53 and installed it myself, new spark plugs, coil pack, and spark plug cables which cost me $350 installed with a change of engine oil and filter included down here at Pembroke Pines, FL.

Even though some members have been able to diagnose where the vacuum was located by spraying brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner, when I sprayed brake cleaner over all of the vacuum lines in my car I could not notice any change at all on how the engine was running. I went ahead and changed the o-ring and that was what finally fixed all the problems I described above. I would also like to state that my o ring did not look as if it was worn down, dry, or damaged.

Who would have thought that a small O-ring which cost $10 would be responsible for countless worrying, sleepless nights and wasted time trying to determine the solution to the problem. There were days I actually wanted to blow/ burn/ torch/ destroy the car. I would also like to let you all know that the Ford dealership and a small local car shop were not able to identify the problem. Thank you all again.
 

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You don't use brake clean, you have to use something like ether/starter fluid. But either way, congrats on getting it fixed. That's great!
 

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There was no particular topic about this so I am hoping the most experienced members see this. As some of you have seen, I am a story typer. I tend to give alot of info so I can get the best info back. I have been doing my engine/brake line project for over a month now on my 1994 taurus gl. I FINALLY got the brakes done and bled them. No leaks! So I thought I was in the clear. WRONG! I actually started the brake lines after the engine work. Back in early-mid February, i failed the emission test at the DMV. the highest level was 220. I was giving off 310 or something. Now before I took it through, the only real problems I was having with my Taurus was the brakes were bad cause I had a small leak and when I got my new muffler, I had them run an engine diagnostic and a couple codes came up. One was for the DPFE pressure sensor. Another was a weak ignition coil. I had this car about 2 years or so before this and it has 140,000 miles (possibly could be 240,000 since the engine turns over at 100,000 and I dont know how many miles were put on it since 1994). So I knew other things had to be replaced too. So I thought since I failed the emissions, I would go gung ho and dive into some heavy DIY work. I took the upper intake off, replaced all 6 plugs, all 6 wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, temp switch, thermostat w/gasket, upper radiator hose, both valve cover gaskets (this will come into play in a minute), PCV valve, plenum gasket, cleaned the upper intake very well with carb &throttle cleaner, EGR DPFE pressure sensor & small silicon hose going from sensor to EGR tube, throttle position sensor.

Because I was alone in this, and we have no garage and it was in the middle of VERY cold days, I could only do a tiny bit at a time. The majority was done in the past 2-3 weeks since its been decent on occasion (i HATE the cold). When I took the valve covers off after I took the plenum off, the rockers were obviously exposed. The valve covers were off for quite a while. Maybe a week or 2? I had shops rags plugging the 6 intake holes and covering the rocker arms, just in case. I noticed when I took the valve covers off that there was a small amount of oil on the top of each rocker. When I say small amount, I mean a tiny puddle. Not much at all. I would assume oil is supposed to spit up into the entire valve cover area and lubricate the rockers and push rods. If I am wrong, tell me?


So this morning I FINALLY get the air filter assembly on, the battery on and connected (which were the last 2 things). I also filled my radiator and reservoir with plain water so that when I went to fire it up for the first time in like 2 months, it would have something cooling through the engine. It is still on 4 stands with all 4 wheels off so I wasnt gonna drive it. I was just gonna fire her up, smile that I replaced all that stuff alone, then tomorrow I was gonna do the coolant flush and tranny flush. Well.... Things didnt go as planned.... After I filled the radiator and reservoir with water, I went to start her. She didnt wanna turn over. It was kinda start for a second then konk out. I tried turning it over 3 times before noticing a burnt smell. I got out and looked in the engine bay and didnt really see any smoke. But I could still smell that burnt odor. I rear exhaust manifold was pretty warm but thats supposed to happen I suppose.

So at this point, im stunned and disappointed. I had no idea why it wasnt starting. I replaced everything old with everything new. All the parts were the same. Everything was hooked up. I then sat in the car and when I turned the key, I gave it gas. This kept the engine running but only if I gave it steady gas. The moment I would let up, it would konk out. Then came the burnt smell again. So I come in, call pep boys and an auto shop in the area and told them what I replaced and what was going on when I tried to start it. Pep boys started throwing a bunch of hooplah about engine timing and asked if when I replaced the spark plugs and rotor, if I timed the engine. I said no. I didnt know I was supposed to. He went off on a rant about the harmonic balancer (which I didnt know was the large pulley at the front of the engine until I got off the phone with him and googled it; yea, im not VERY knowledgeable with cars but I have minor knowledge). So he said I should get a timing light and set the timing to 10 degrees (or whatever my manual said it was supposed to be) by rotating the crankshaft right or left until the notch is at the correct timing. He also said something about loosening the distributor bolt and slightly turning it until timing was reached. He also mentioned Top dead center. So I thanked him and hung up scared cause all the stuff I just did to my car was me being a novice DIY mechanic, but atleast I still knew some of the parts. But when U ask me to set the timing, play with the pulleys, mess with the distributor, etc..., im out of my league a little...

So I called the auto shop in the area and explained the problem. He mentioned possible vacuum leaks and to use 2+2 to spray areas where the vacuum lines connect. But how am I to do that when I cant get my engine to idle???? he also explained the wonders of the crankshaft and timing as a possibility.


Then I went back out and took the top small vacuum hose off the top PCV valve and had my brother do what I did as far as turning the key and giving it gas. I was checking for vacuum, which it did have some but I dunno how much its supposed to have? But when I noiced the smell again, i had him let off the gas so it would stall. Thats when I saw a little smoke coming out of the top of the PCV valve where the vacuum line was. So heres what im thinkin... Im wondering if when I had those valve covers off so long if it didnt dry up the rocker arms, push rods and whatever else and when I was starting the car and giving it gas, if no oil was splashing onto them? It made me think that when I saw that small puff of smoke... But it gets even better! I start noticing a small coolant leak. I couldnt tell where the drops were coming from but the water I put in earlier, mixed with coolant that I guess didnt all flush out 2 weeks ago when we drained the radiator, was dripping slowly from somewhere. It wasnt from the thermostat housing, it wasnt from the radiator hose. Its like it was coming from somewhere in the engine but I dont know where on the engine that coolant would leak out of. Does anyone have an opinion PLEASE? This car is VERY important to me. Its the last thing my mother got me 2 1/2 years ago right before she passed away. It holds sentimental value, not to mention its my car and I need my car. I might take the splash guard off the passenger front tomorrow and check some stuff out. Im thinking about dropping the oil pan after I drain the oil (even though i had an oil change 2 days before I started working on this project so the oil is new. But im thinking about draining it, dropping the pan, replacing the gasket just in case, and then adding oil again. Will that help lubricate the rocker arms? Do I need to take the valve covers off AGAIN and pour some oil onto each rocker arm and let it seap down? Ok, this was long enough. For those who have stuck through and read it all, I thank you. And I pray you have some good advice for me.
 

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Does the MAF cleaner JUST go on the steel part where the sensor is located on the outside of it? Or do I use the cleaner on the black air pipe that is attached and goes from the MAF sensor to the throttle body?

UPDATE NOTE: Today my cousin came over to try to help me figure out the problem. We solved the minor coolant leak that I couldnt see where it was coming from. When we took out the air filter box and MAF setup, we could see the thermostat housing better (which mine is held on by 3 bolts). It was dripping from the bottom bolt. I tightened them when I changed the thermostat and gasket but I didnt excessively tighten cause the torque specs said like 9-15 ft lbs. I dont have a torque wrench but I know it isnt a lot. Well he ended up tightening all 3 pretty good. The leak stopped and we put some Ultra Black RTV around the housing and a little around that bolt.

Anywho... So then we took off the MAF sensor and the black air pipe to TB. Then to check the TDC, I did what a mechanic told me to do yesterday. I took the number 1 plug out. He said i could put my finger in the bore hole and just give the key a little turn. Not to start it, just to give it a little oomph, ya know? He said when I felt air, the rotor should be pointing where the number 1 wire is on the dis. cap. Right before the first time we tried this, the rotor was pointing at 6 o'clock, which is right between the 4 and 2 wires. So we tried it and i felt some air the first time, but the rotor was at like 10 o'clock now, which is at about the #5 wire. Tried it again, it was at 12 o'clock (#3 wire). Then after the 3rd time (feeling air puffs each time with my finger), the rotor was pointing at the #1 plug. So I am under the impression the #1 piston is now at TDC and the engine is timed. We put the #1 plug back in, dis. cap back on, and with the MAF and air pipe still off so that he could see the throttle plate (butterfly plate or whatever you call it), the engine actually turned over and was at idle. It was like this for maybe 10 seconds before it almost sounded like someone was giving it a little gas, but we werent. Then it started the sounds of wanting to stall. We gave it throttle to keep it going, but eventually it stalled.

Its definitely the furthest I have gotten. So the whole TDC thing seemed to help it. Then when we put the MAF and air pipe back on the throttle body and turned the key, it kinda did what i described before. Then we took the pipe back off the TB and it started up again for 10 seconds or so before the previously mentioned stalling sounds. It is leading me to believe the car isnt getting enough air somehow?

Me and my cousin thought the possible problems were as follows: he engine isnt getting enough air, the engine isnt getting enough fuel, the engine has too much fuel in it from all the times we cranked it not only today but also yesterday when I kept giving it gas and not letting it stall. He also said that since the car sat there for a month and a half or 2 months without being started since I was working on it when I could, that the gas could be old and nasty as it just sat in the tank not being used. There is about a 1/2 tank. He suggested adding some lucas to it. Im thinking on top of all that, it could be a faulty MAF sensor all together. Or maybe even the connector that goes on it. I also got to thinking if a vacuum leak could be the culprit?

Its sooooo close. Does anyone agree with the possibilities we said? Or even know if it could definitely be one over the other? after the spark plug compression test for TDC, the car started for the first time without giving it gas to start it with the TB exposed. It seemed like it would start and idle for atleast 10-20 seconds like that but when we put the MAF back, it didnt wanna start that easy. So we got engine not getting enough air, not enough fuel, too much fuel that cant burn off, old fuel from sitting in the tank for a month or two. Any ideas?
 

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First, in the interest of safety, I do not recommend using the electric starter to turn over an engine if your body parts are stuck into it. You might be okay if you're fat fingered, but if someone sticks their finger in too far they stand the risk of having their fingertip crushed. So if you do the finger trick, always turn the engine over BY HAND.

If you look through the MAF in the direction the air moves, you will see tiny little wires inside the hole. Spray the MAF cleaner on the little wires, but do not touch them with anything like the red straw (they are very fragile). So make sure the inside of the MAF is clean.

If you start the car without the MAF and boot attached, the car is not measuring airflow and won't run correctly. But currently I believe your problem might be with a stuck IAC valve on the throttle body. If the IAC sticks closed, the engine won't get enough air and will stall. It's also possible you have a fuel pressure problem, so it would be a good idea to check that with the car idling as well. It's also possible that you have a large undiscovered vacuum leak somewhere.

Finally, I recommend that you disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the keep alive memory after working on the car. This will force the computer to relearn the idle settings. If you make changes, the car expects things will be the way they were the last time it started and the adjustments will be way off (the car has to unlearn everything). They will adjust in time, but clearing the KAM will speed up the learning process.
 

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I'm looking to replace the gasket on the intake manifold runner control on my daughters 04 Vulcan Taurus which isn't here till Wednesday.

Is it easy to get at and remove to replace the gasket?

Does anyone know how many torx screws there are and what size torx is needed?

I'm planning ahead as I will only have the car for an hour or so.

I plan on ordering the gasket today, part 87072 S91. :)
 

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I did mine this afternoon. I used the Bosch oil filter gasket, and it fit perfectly.

There are 2 Torx T-30 screws. They aren't difficult to get to, but they're awkward to get a tool on with any leverage. I ended up using a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" socket with the T-30 Torx bit in the socket. Honestly, the toughest part of the job is getting the 2 screws loose.

I cleared the CEL light. If it comes back, I'll try to update.
 

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Hello,
purchased a 01 SE with only 89,xxx miles in March of this year, was a 1 owner, but less than 2 months I had a front end collision and it messed up the fuse box out in the engine compartment, been unable to find or figure out if any other years will interchange with the 01 to replace it with. I do know that since the 8th digit of the VIN is a U, which means the engine code, it has to come off a car with that also. Since the junk yards only want to pay me around $330 for the car, I really just want to get it back running and use as a woods/trail car around the house since I got over 3 acres I could use it that way on. If anyone should know what years will interchange with the 01 on this part, if you would just private message me and let me know. Thanks
 

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Do the Fuel Filter First

You don't know when that fuel filter was last changed. And, low fuel pressure could be causing most of your problems. If you have a 04 Duratec, I believe that engine has coil on plug - No wires.
 
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