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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I was driving to the store and everything seemed to be fine. Upon leaving
the store the car struggled to start and the ABS, Battery, and Airbag light all flashed. During the ride home the following also occurred-

- The battery light flashed multiple times and then stayed on
- The RPM gauge did some strange flickering in the 1-2 range while
decelerating
- The ABS light was on
- The car started lurching forward at times
- The stereo was fine for the first portion of my trip home however it started
getting lots of odd static and then cut off completely.

As of right now I thankfully managed to get the car home and as I figured, it
will not start. It does a brief clicking but wont turn over. The lights mentioned
above also flash.

The starter was replaced about a year ago and the battery is around 2 years old.

My suspicion is that it could be a blown fuse. I've had a similar issue in the past where the car would not start and would not click. This was fixed by replacing the starter, but seeing as it's clicking this time I'm not sure what the problem could be. Thinking a blown fuse?

I'd really like to try and fix this without having to get it towed to a shop but will do so if its a last resort.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Sounds like low system voltage to me. Do you have a DMM so you can check some voltages?

Check battery cables, major grounds, and have the battery and charging system tested.
 

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Had the exact some issue on my 03 DOHC two weeks. Exact meaning to the tee! My positive terminal was corroded and preventing charge to the battery. I replaced the positive terminal, charged the battery and all is good.

Might not be a corroded terminal for you but must probably is a voltage issue of some sort.
 

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Like someone already said - I'd stat with a DMM. Also please do yourself a favor by purchasing OBD2 Bluetooth adapter & android app 'Torque (pro version - paid). You'd be able to read battery voltage (provided the car cranks), transmission temp., clear codes, and all other cool stuff with that - best $25 I have ever spent).

I had some weird electric stuff going on until I replaced the alternator & finally the battery (AZ or any other shop would check both for free). ABS is also 'very' sensitive to brake fluid level. My ABS started engaging all on a sudden - I just had to top it off with a tiny amount and it's fine for last two years.
 

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It sounds like your alternator died. When that happens you're running the car entirely off of the battery. As the battery charge begins to get low, electronics like the radio will start working funny, sensors won't read or put out a proper signal, etc. The battery is probably drained enough now that is why it will not start. As mentioned, check your wiring going to and from the battery for loose or corroded connections.

You can do a cheap/quick test on the alternator. You'll have to charge the battery. When that is done start the car and use your voltmeter and check your voltage, it should be 14.5 or close to that. If it is, start turning on heavy load items like rear defogger, headlamps, HVAC fan on high and then check your voltage. The voltage should drop some at idle, but should come back over 14V when then engine is revved to 1500RPM. If not, there may be an issue with the alternator. If the alternator is faulty and you replace it, charge the battery up before hand.
 

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It sounds like your alternator died. When that happens you're running the car entirely off of the battery. As the battery charge begins to get low, electronics like the radio will start working funny, sensors won't read or put out a proper signal, etc. The battery is probably drained enough now that is why it will not start. As mentioned, check your wiring going to and from the battery for loose or corroded connections.

You can do a cheap/quick test on the alternator. You'll have to charge the battery. When that is done start the car and use your voltmeter and check your voltage, it should be 14.5 or close to that. If it is, start turning on heavy load items like rear defogger, headlamps, HVAC fan on high and then check your voltage. The voltage should drop some at idle, but should come back over 14V when then engine is revved to 1500RPM. If not, there may be an issue with the alternator. If the alternator is faulty and you replace it, charge the battery up before hand.

I thought the same thing as it was happening to me. Glad is was just a cruded up terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello all, just a quick update. Appreciate all the help and responses.

Unfortunately I have no access to any of the tools mentioned above but this is what's been done so far since my post and where I'm at currently. Perhaps based on the information below someone can consult as to whether I should get a lift to Walmart to buy these tools or just grab a new battery.

One of my neighbors who has plenty more mechanic experience then myself assisted me in replacing the alternator several days ago in exchange for a couple cases of beer (hehe)

When it was installed we jumped the car and it started up, I drove it around a bit to charge the battery up and noticed that there was no power to the radio at all. This is probably unrelated to this problem but I also noticed the steering felt lighter and would occasionally make a low pitched grumble while executing sharp turns. (Might need power steering fluid?)

For about 2-3 days I'd drive the car each day for a couple minutes just around the corner to go to the store.

I went to my car yesterday to drive to subway and she's dead again. This time no clicking when turning the key. Based on what I've read I'm thinking it must be the battery? I know this is tough to do without the tools mentioned above so forgive me for shooting in the dark here so to speak.

Along with suggestions mentioned above I'll check the battery terminals and connections.

Thanks a lot!
 

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You can pick up a cheap DMM for around $6 from your local Harbor Freight store. Good chance you have a bad battery, but if it were my car, I would systematically troubleshoot the problem before spending $100 or more on a battery.
 

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Hello all, just a quick update. Appreciate all the help and responses.

Unfortunately I have no access to any of the tools mentioned above but this is what's been done so far since my post and where I'm at currently. Perhaps based on the information below someone can consult as to whether I should get a lift to Walmart to buy these tools or just grab a new battery.

One of my neighbors who has plenty more mechanic experience then myself assisted me in replacing the alternator several days ago in exchange for a couple cases of beer (hehe)

When it was installed we jumped the car and it started up, I drove it around a bit to charge the battery up and noticed that there was no power to the radio at all. This is probably unrelated to this problem but I also noticed the steering felt lighter and would occasionally make a low pitched grumble while executing sharp turns. (Might need power steering fluid?)

For about 2-3 days I'd drive the car each day for a couple minutes just around the corner to go to the store.

I went to my car yesterday to drive to subway and she's dead again. This time no clicking when turning the key. Based on what I've read I'm thinking it must be the battery? I know this is tough to do without the tools mentioned above so forgive me for shooting in the dark here so to speak.

Along with suggestions mentioned above I'll check the battery terminals and connections.

Thanks a lot!
Not sure why you assumed it was the alternator prior to testing the battery.
 

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At any time did your battery light come on, before or after the alternator change out. Also what engine do you have? OHV or DOHC? If it is a OHV you could always have gotten the wrong battery and a couple of cases of beer for a OHC alternator change out is a rip off. LOL
 
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