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The jacking point listed under the topic finder link is somewhat unclear. michakaveli and I tried jacking his car up to rotate tires and we started bending the lip of what I guess is the control arm box. That jacking point ain't working. Is there a better jacking point in the rear? We found some spot opposite the rocker molding that has some L bracket that joins the metal body seam. On driver's side *i think* the parking brake cables go through it. Is that a good place? Or is there a safer/better place?
Thanks.
 

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I asked the same question a few months ago after experiencing the same problem as you. Someone replied saying they put a couple pieces of wood across the 'box' and jack under the wood. I've since tried that when rotating my tires, and it worked. I tried with one piece of wood first...but it broke before the tires left the ground... 2 or 3 small pieces is key
 

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i think the only place that is considered "safe" is the factory jacking points but pretty much any sturdy part of the car that wont crush or bend if you raise it should be fine just be really careful and make sure you have a jackstand under there
 

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yeah i usually put a block of wood between the jack or stand and my pinch seem to prevent from bending it and chipping the paint so it wont rust
 

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I go for the factory jacking points under the door. With the giganto speaker box in the trunk that fits between the strut towers rather tight, I can get 3 wheels off the ground at once, but I can rock it back and forth.
 

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I use a 1" thick plank of hard wood cut to the size of the lower control arm box.
[/b]

That's what I do.

My tires are unidirectional and when I use the front jack point to jack it up I can get both tires off the ground.

Mike
B)
 

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If you look at the rear G3-4 H box from underneath you will see that the "lip" you bent is actually not the true H box but a plate put in front and back for reinforcement.

I use a piece of 2x6 on top of my jack. Be sure to slowly raise the jack and have the piece of wood in between these two outer plates. The actual H box is quite strong on the G3-4 compared to the G1-2.
 

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QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ Dec 4 2008, 03:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=681887
If you look at the rear G3-4 H box from underneath you will see that the "lip" you bent is actually not the true H box but a plate put in front and back for reinforcement.

I use a piece of 2x6 on top of my jack. Be sure to slowly raise the jack and have the piece of wood in between these two outer plates. The actual H box is quite strong on the G3-4 compared to the G1-2.[/b]
That's where I always pick the rear on my car. Never had any problems, and it's quicker if you want the whole rear end off the ground.
 

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Don't go around a curve very fast then if it is that weak.
 

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I need to take a picture of the rear jack points on my car. I've never had to to anything special and it works fine. It looks identical to the ones in front.
 

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Use a block of wood and jack at point 6 between the arms.
 

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I won't suggest it. But it is how I have done it for years.
 

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QUOTE (SHOZ123 @ Mar 28 2010, 05:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=793944
I won't suggest it. But it is how I have done it for years.[/b]
:lol2: Same here. My wood block is cut to fit the outer dimensions of the box, oriented as in image 3.
 
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