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I guess my radiator fans weren't working.. or not turning on. I had only been on a ten minute drive, half way through I see the temp gauge 3/4 of the way up, so I blast 90˚ air out the defroster as I try to keep on some speed, the combination took the temp down a few letters. When I got home I checked the overflow and it was at the "full hot" level so nothing to worry about there, but the intake burned my arm, The INTAKE! So I put water on just the intake so I could atleast touch it, just a little bit and it just vaporized right there.. and the intake was still hot. So the pic just looks like the car's in trouble.. The car is fine.. For Now.

Anyone know how to fix the fans?

And maybe a poll.. Who likes my steamy engine pic?
 

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This should probably be moved to maintenance.

I would first check the fan's electrical connections and any related fuses. I might also try to move the fan manually and see if it has a seized bearing/motor. If that doesn't tell you anything, then check these threads in the archives. They aren't SHO-specific, but they should give you some ideas.

3.8L fan problems

Discussion on CCR module (Vulcan)

And, of course, you could have a dead fan (or two?)
 
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Originally posted by L0pan@Mar 13 2004, 12:00 PM
Very ill advised to put water on a hot engine
and why is that?

**edit.. If you read my post it says that the engine cooled down by the time I got home.. (according to the temp gauge) it was just the intake that was hot, and I was just putting water on it to cool it down, so I could lean on it to get closer to the coolant overflow to check the level
 

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Not trying to argue or fight with you or anything, but no engine is "cooled down" by the time you get home. If your still driving it, come home, pour some water on it - your asking for a cracked block, heads, seals, intake or anything else that you pour water on.

Your rapidly cooling a hot surface and that producess stress - quickly - which will result in cracks and a much more expensive and bigger problem.

NEVER pour water on a "just drove" engine. Never. Hot or cold water.
 

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Is coolant actually flowing through the radiator? Could be a stuck thermostat.
 

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Originally posted by jedhead@Mar 13 2004, 06:42 PM
After the car is cooled off, start it up and turn on MAX AC the radiator fan should turn on even if the engine is cold.
Yes, your fan should run with the A/C on.

Also, the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM), which is that small black box you see sitting just above the radiator assembly (driver's side), houses the fan relay, so you should consider that when you are troubleshooting.

The link that SixFo posted on 3.8L cooling fans has a lot of good info in it, keep in mind that the Integrated Control Relay Module (ICRM) is the same thing as the CCRM.

FWIW, the ECT failed on my SHO and the fan would not turn on. Replaced the ECT and problem fixed. And since I was right there, I also changed the T-Stat.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
both fans turn on with Max A/C so I'm going to go with the ECT


And I didn't mean the engine cooled down.. How would it? I would just think that if the engine isn't hot, if it's around it's normal operating temperature, then wouldn't the intake be less then 200*F??
 

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Originally posted by L0pan@Mar 14 2004, 09:56 AM
Not trying to argue or fight with you or anything, but no engine is "cooled down" by the time you get home. If your still driving it, come home, pour some water on it - your asking for a cracked block, heads, seals, intake or anything else that you pour water on.

Your rapidly cooling a hot surface and that producess stress - quickly - which will result in cracks and a much more expensive and bigger problem.

NEVER pour water on a "just drove" engine. Never. Hot or cold water.
Then how come drag racers can ice down their intake manifold right after they run their car with no ill effects?
 

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One time my fan connector came loose. An easy fix but the SoCol desert was still too hot for me. It costed me a blown head and gasket.

I up-graded to a two-inch radiator during the head job. I tore apart the old radiator and found a lot of sludge build-up (even though the coolant flowed freely) in the old unit. The new two-incher fights the heat real good.

Any car over 6~8 years old will have some build-up in the radaitor tanks and core.
 

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Originally posted by mikehawk+Mar 16 2004, 11:18 PM-->QUOTE (mikehawk @ Mar 16 2004, 11:18 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-L0pan
@Mar 14 2004, 09:56 AM
Not trying to argue or fight with you or anything, but no engine is "cooled down" by the time you get home.  If your still driving it, come home, pour some water on it - your asking for a cracked block, heads, seals, intake or anything else that you pour water on.

Your rapidly cooling a hot surface and that producess stress - quickly - which will result in cracks and a much more expensive and bigger problem.

NEVER pour water on a "just drove" engine.  Never.  Hot or cold water.
Then how come drag racers can ice down their intake manifold right after they run their car with no ill effects? [/b]
I thought that drag racer ice their filter box. Also, the billet aluminum or forged steel that the drag racer's intake is made out of can handle alot more stress to it than a cast aluminum intake can.
 

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Check the fan. make sure that lights up when the machine is a function of temperature. If you have a fan "switch", you can check that it works by booting the car and listen to the fan to change the pitch or the "roar" when it heats up. This may be the biggest fans quite clear.Keep your hands near the moving fan. Keep a safe distance. Check the fan motor off, excessive movement, the fan blade by rocking back and forth. There should be little or no play. If the fan is connected to the pump, this is also a good way to verify its operation. Again, we would play little or nothing. more DIY's and how to's job on California auto repair.
If you're going to spam the forum, at least have the common decency to hit a thread that isn't 7 1/2 years old.
 
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