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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just wondering what types of issues people on here have had when getting loud in these cars. Major flex points. Rattles. Breaking things. Just curious what I'll be having to fix in my future. Intending on a 150+ out of the trunk by next year.
 

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^ When my middle son had a loud trunk, he tripped his fuel pump cut-off switch several times, lol!!! After that, we dissed him by nicknaming him Vanilla Ice, Bass Cannon and Junk In The Trunk, lol!
 

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After that, we dissed him by nicknaming him Vanilla Ice, Bass Cannon and Junk In The Trunk, lol!
Hey, at least Vanilla Ice was a Ford man:
"Rollin, in my 5.0, with the rag-top down so my hair can blow."
I'll admit it, I owned that tape back in the day :lol2:

Seriously though, the Gen 3 and Gen 4 Taurii and pretty solid cars body wise. I've lifted an entire side of the car off the ground from the front jack point. Try that with most uni-body vehicles.

I did find a few areas that needed some help when I did my sound deadening though.

1: The inner door skin and the door panels are pretty flimsy. Using some heavy deadener to add some mass to them helps a lot with resonance. Also beef up the areas around the door panel mounts and where the panel slips over the top of the door to reduce rattles.

2: The roof panel is nowhere near as thick as the rest of the body structure. It would flex with just 350w RMS to a Kappa 12" in the trunk. Some good liquid deadener worked well for me to stiffen it up.

3: The rear deck is also on the weaker side. I covered both sides with deadener to stiffen it up.

4: As mentioned above, the fuel pump inertia switch will trip from heavy bass. I relocated mine under the dash. Just cut/spliced the wires and mounted it to the firewall.

5: Most of the interior panels need to be deadened to reduce vibrations. A lot of them just pop in so they're not very secure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey, at least Vanilla Ice was a Ford man:
"Rollin, in my 5.0, with the rag-top down so my hair can blow."
I'll admit it, I owned that tape back in the day :lol2:

Seriously though, the Gen 3 and Gen 4 Taurii and pretty solid cars body wise. I've lifted an entire side of the car off the ground from the front jack point. Try that with most uni-body vehicles.

I did find a few areas that needed some help when I did my sound deadening though.

1: The inner door skin and the door panels are pretty flimsy. Using some heavy deadener to add some mass to them helps a lot with resonance. Also beef up the areas around the door panel mounts and where the panel slips over the top of the door to reduce rattles.

2: The roof panel is nowhere near as thick as the rest of the body structure. It would flex with just 350w RMS to a Kappa 12" in the trunk. Some good liquid deadener worked well for me to stiffen it up.

3: The rear deck is also on the weaker side. I covered both sides with deadener to stiffen it up.

4: As mentioned above, the fuel pump inertia switch will trip from heavy bass. I relocated mine under the dash. Just cut/spliced the wires and mounted it to the firewall.

5: Most of the interior panels need to be deadened to reduce vibrations. A lot of them just pop in so they're not very secure.
Hmmm. Write up on fuel pump issue? I'll be using Audiotechnix, edead v3, and expanding foam throughout the entire car so that should be alright. Just the fuel pump seems the issue.
 

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Yeah, a good deadening job will address any problem areas you'd likely encounter. Just put a little extra TLC into the roof panel. I also forgot to mention that you need to seriously beef up the trunk floor, but with the power you're talking about running I figure that's probably on top of your list.

As for the inertia switch, it's an easy job. It's behind the trunk panel on the passenger side. I just removed it (2 bolts), cut the wires, spliced on new ones, ran them up the passenger side and mounted it to the firewall under the passenger side dash with self tapping screws. Just make sure that it's mounted solid so it will still trip in the event of a collision. Fire is bad:flamethrowing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Deadening is of course a priority. But given the decision I am faced with at the moment. Of get it playing before snow. Or do deadening, then put the project on hold untill spring. You must know which I'll pick. Besides, where I'm from. Whoever rattles the most is the loudest, I mean thats how it works right? (Sarcasm) I'll be doing no deadener whatsoever as of now. So that when the time comes I can be very liberal. Check out in the midwest chapter section I started a build log thread. Will be full of pics, vids, and details as I commence this build. Should be some good eye candy when its all said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just seal the face of your box off from trunk. No rattles in the trunk, more bass in the cabin. Problem solved.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3199106/2005-ford-taurus/page-4

ps: if your gunna go cheap on the deadener at least use fatmat. its 100 x better than edead and pretty cheap price wise.
I will be using Audiotechnix 60 mil. 2 layers on the entire car with the exception of the floor. Where I will be using the liquid/paint on edead v3. Its the same concept as second skin spectrum sludge. Every try deadening the floor of a car with mat type deadener? PITA. The paint on does a great job. And you can do the entire floor of a car with a gallon that costs 50$. And please explain to me how doing a trunk wall is a better choice. Because I hate them.
 

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I will be using Audiotechnix 60 mil. 2 layers on the entire car with the exception of the floor. Where I will be using the liquid/paint on edead v3. Its the same concept as second skin spectrum sludge. Every try deadening the floor of a car with mat type deadener? PITA. The paint on does a great job. And you can do the entire floor of a car with a gallon that costs 50$. And please explain to me how doing a trunk wall is a better choice. Because I hate them.

HAHA , yeah I did my whole floor 2 layers... was a PITA. My back killed after the fact too, and that cheap ass little roller broke on me lolz.

Semi trunk wall is a better choice because if done right the trunk wont rattle at all. Not to mention the SPL will improve because all the SPL is in the cabin and no escaping back into the trunk.

Here is an old vid that i used to shw the differance when i switch wire but it will sufice. Watch @ :44 to the end. Notice minimal to no rattle. Idk I just always thought the engied metal sound from peoples trunk rattle sound like crap and make your over all sound crap.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In a LOT of ways a trunk wall wil reduce SPL. Assuming you are firing into the cabin from what you are saying. Open your trunk, then play your system. Louder? Your releasing backwaves and cancellation. A trunk wall will usually be about a db louder with the trunk open.If your doing a trunk wall, you might as well do a real one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not to say I havent done any setups firing into the car. But this was sub forward, slot ported into the driver wheel well. Did a 149.1 door open on an audiocontrol meter at 32hz. Never really had a chance for TL testing.
 

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It's been a long time since I've built a ported system, but why couldn't you just build a trunk wall and vent the enclosure into the cabin? The only way I can see you having any backwave issues is if you were venting into the trunk or running IB.
 

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In a LOT of ways a trunk wall wil reduce SPL. Assuming you are firing into the cabin from what you are saying. Open your trunk, then play your system. Louder? Your releasing backwaves and cancellation. A trunk wall will usually be about a db louder with the trunk open.If your doing a trunk wall, you might as well do a real one.
If that is so then why do almost all pro competitors have their gear facing forward. The subs facing forwards in many competition vehicles serves a purpose, they are trying to reduce the amount of air the subs play into. By sealing off everything behind the subs, you reduce the amount of air being compressed, and (theoretically) raise the maximum attainable SPL.

Im sorry but you're incorrect. For SPL a wall is defiantly the way to go. Walls hit higher frequencies which allow for better mechanical power handling and you also reduse cabin volume. I did do a real one, but its more of a mix of a wall and a blow though. Basically the trunk is just storing the box. The semi wall/blowthrough completely seals the trunk off from the cabin. Only reason the trunk lid even moves it because the sound waves from in the cabin are traveling from inside the cabin through the holes in the rear package tray. (where the rear speakers go) I eventually need to seal that part off as well and I was actually just thinking about doing that next week. You may loose a little SPL with them sealed off inside IF you don't change the tuning of your box. Taking the trunks airspace out of the equation , changes the resonate frequency of the cabin. Firing into the cabin aims it all right to the front of the vehicle. There is no cancellation or backwaves from having to bounce off the taillights/trunk then into the cabin. (as you would have with the backwards firing method) Even IF you just used the same box and sealed it off what SPL you'd loose (if any) is made up in SQ. As far as meter I haven't done any real metering. I do have an Epic-150 and can hit 148 to 150 (only reads up to 150 so no real telling what i peak @) consistently on music. Altho none of my doors have deadener on them (due to me having to take it off to do some body work.) So I know i'm loosing db's there for sure.

As far as "not trying to sound like a ****" thats all good but Im speakin from experience and about with 5 different system setups in this same car. I know its impossible to give a 100% definitive answer due to the fact that in SPL there are a ton of variables. SPL is about experimentation. After 6 years of trial and error, over $6k in audio equipment wasted over the years. Just trying to save you the time and the money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If that is so then why do almost all pro competitors have their gear facing forward. The subs facing forwards in many competition vehicles serves a purpose, they are trying to reduce the amount of air the subs play into. By sealing off everything behind the subs, you reduce the amount of air being compressed, and (theoretically) raise the maximum attainable SPL.

Im sorry but you're incorrect. For SPL a wall is defiantly the way to go. Walls hit higher frequencies which allow for better mechanical power handling and you also reduse cabin volume. I did do a real one, but its more of a mix of a wall and a blow though. Basically the trunk is just storing the box. The semi wall/blowthrough completely seals the trunk off from the cabin. Only reason the trunk lid even moves it because the sound waves from in the cabin are traveling from inside the cabin through the holes in the rear package tray. (where the rear speakers go) I eventually need to seal that part off as well and I was actually just thinking about doing that next week. You may loose a little SPL with them sealed off inside IF you don't change the tuning of your box. Taking the trunks airspace out of the equation , changes the resonate frequency of the cabin. Firing into the cabin aims it all right to the front of the vehicle. There is no cancellation or backwaves from having to bounce off the taillights/trunk then into the cabin. (as you would have with the backwards firing method) Even IF you just used the same box and sealed it off what SPL you'd loose (if any) is made up in SQ. As far as meter I haven't done any real metering. I do have an Epic-150 and can hit 148 to 150 (only reads up to 150 so no real telling what i peak @) consistently on music. Altho none of my doors have deadener on them (due to me having to take it off to do some body work.) So I know i'm loosing db's there for sure.

As far as "not trying to sound like a ****" thats all good but Im speakin from experience and about with 5 different system setups in this same car. I know its impossible to give a 100% definitive answer due to the fact that in SPL there are a ton of variables. SPL is about experimentation. After 6 years of trial and error, over $6k in audio equipment wasted over the years. Just trying to save you the time and the money.
^this. Also the facts im stating, what applies in one car may behave very differently in another. I also forgot to state that my intention (although the goal is a 150) is a street box, and a ground pounder. So although it may sound like a 150+ to the ear. I could care less if on a meter it then turns a 46. I'm just trying to keep in in the trunk for now. I sense 4 15's in a wall within the next couple years here.
 

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Sall good m8, i just wanted to give you what I think is the best of both worlds. The best bass you can get out of your system, yet 100% removable.
 
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