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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start from the beginning... :D My battery died out of the blue last week. It had enough power to start the car and get me to the nearest AutoZone, but barely. It was 6 years old, so I think it was normal.

I had a new battery installed at AutoZone.... and this is where the issues began. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary on the way home, but I was probably not paying close enough attention.

At first (before re-resetting the computer) when I took off from a stop, the car hesitated. Then when I accelerated hard, it seemed to not want to speed up (like it's missing, but not). It also would not idle correctly, the engine kept surging and bucking.

I reset the computer today and I believe everything has been "relearned" properly - however two of the issues still persist. Now the car will idle properly, however if you put the car in gear it "bucks" (for lack of better description) very badly. It behaves like it has a vacuum leak, but only does this when in a drive gear. Neutral and Park are not affected in the least.

Also, when heavily accelerating it seems to not want to "go".

So, here's what I have done...

- Tested the EGR valve (engine tries to die when vacuum applied)
- Tested the IAC (engine almost dies when unplugged)
- Looked for vacuum leaks everywhere I know to (visually)
(PCV valve/hose seems OK, was replaced before)
- Cleaned the throttle body off using appropriate cleaner
- Reset computer (again) and let car learn "idle" properly

All hoses/etc around the battery are still attached, and I watched the guy put it in. The coilpack is relatively new ,as are the spark plugs and the plug wires.

This is a Vulcan engine, and I must state again - the car was running FINE before the battery was changed. Could the battery cause this? Right now I am at the fuel filter - I just find it odd this would suddenly appear when the battery is replaced.

Or could the computer just need to relearn everything? It idles totally fine, at 600 RPM steadily. But when placed in gear, it begins bucking.
 

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Fuel filter won't fix your problem.

May be coincidental...ever replaced or checked the condition of the coil pack? Esp the underside for micro fractures/cracks in the casing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fuel filter won't fix your problem.

May be coincidental...ever replaced or checked the condition of the coil pack? Esp the underside for micro fractures/cracks in the casing.
I think you may be right. I just went outside in the dark and sprayed the plugs with water. ALL of the plugs on the front are arcing (just barely visible) - which means that they are probably all arcing.

Think the wires I put on it are crap, it's just now showing up in the wet weather we're having. I've just been trying to link it to the battery somehow.

I believe they are Duralast wires (only thing AutoZone had). I replaced them as I accidentally damaged one when replacing the plugs last time. I had Borg-Warner wires before which seemed to work fine for years.

I think the coil is fine. I just put it on a few months ago. It was used, but low-mileage.
 

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Motorcraft wires for the win. Rockauto has them for 1/3 to 1/4 the dealer price if you can wait a few days to have them shipped to you. Many Duralast parts = crap. I assume you used dielectric grease at both ends of the wires when you installed them?
 

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+1 on dielectric grease. Get good wires from Rock Auto. I got a set that were only $12 for Flex Fuel closeout and looked and worked as well as the stock ones. Good boots and all wires numbered and correct length!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Replaced wires with BWD/BorgWarner... But the issue persists. Grease was used both times.

Now have CEL, misfire on cylinder 1. Am thinking coil pack now, though it was just replaced.
 

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I'm always suspicious of used coils. Unless it was from a wreck, there's a reason it came off the car. How to test:

 

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When these same exact problems reared their ugly heads on my 2000 vulcan, the first thing I did was change the plugs to Autolite double platinum.. Prob went away on the next start cycle..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It seems it was the coilpack. I replaced the used one with a new BWD coilpack, and the problem seems to have went away.

I was able to get it for just $50 from Advance Auto Parts with a $20 off $50 coupon. I think I paid almost $30 for the used one, and this one has a lifetime warranty.
 

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Ta da...
 

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Spiralfive, you mentioned in your first post you replaced plugs, wires and coil, but not "used" coil. Also no misfire cel (code) at that point. I agree with Jeff K and behlinla, not usually a good idea to go with used ignition parts, lol. Good choice on the BWD wires and coil. I've got 5 98-99 tecs, and they all react differently when the battery is disconnected or replaced. Some are hardly noticeable, but 1 or 2 run like crap (eng. and tranny) until they relearn trims and settings. I figure they're just slow learners and ride the 'lil bus, lol!
 

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Spiralfive, you mentioned in your first post you replaced plugs, wires and coil, but not "used" coil. Also no misfire cel (code) at that point. I agree with Jeff K and behlinla, not usually a good idea to go with used ignition parts, lol. Good choice on the BWD wires and coil. I've got 5 98-99 tecs, and they all react differently when the battery is disconnected or replaced. Some are hardly noticeable, but 1 or 2 run like crap (eng. and tranny) until they relearn trims and settings. I figure they're just slow learners and ride the 'lil bus, lol!
hahahaha
 
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sheila
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